how to do MFA? - EOS 7D Mark II pictures coming out dull

[iphonemaster93]

Hi guys

So after a few weeks of owning the 7DMKII, I realize that even when I manually focus my shots (I don't use a tripod and I do automotive photography), If I zoom in to the maximum in Lightroom, the photo is still dull (on the lowest ISO at 1/320 as I realize that 1/320 is when the photos are 'sharpest'). Is this because the lens that I'm using isn't calibrated to the camera (using a 17-55 2.8) or is it because I'm just shooting wrong? I've tried both manual focus and the different AF zones, all of them, when zoomed in on LR, are dull. Thanks!   

[RobertTheFat]

---

@ebiggs1 wrote:

Never been [to Laguna Seca racetrack] or done that but if I were to go I would take my 1D Mk IV with the Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Sports Lens.  Along with it I would take my 1Ds Mk III with the Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 USM.

---

And a Sherpa porter to carry that stuff for you?

[ebiggs1]

Bob from Boston,

You know I started carrying my F1n's and white lenses all over mountains, cities and swamps of this country.  I am nearly 70 and still carrying that stuff almost everywhere I go.  It is 1 series now, though.  Retired or not it seems it is always there.  There is a air show, Blue Angles, today up in KC today.  I may go to that and guess what will go with me?

The 1DMk IV and big Siggy hooked to my Black Rapid.  The Ds3 with a CPS shoulder starp.  I guess it depends in what circles you run with but was common with my buds.  We all do/did it and no one complains ....... too much that is! 

You know it still boogles me to see how different pros and amateurs treat and handle their gear.  You would be surprised.

Man up Bob from Boston, grab those cameras and lenses and go shoot something!

[iphonemaster93]

Now I see why you said the Sigma 35mm 1.4 is the 'king' for sharpness. Purchased it through Amazon Prime and did a couple of shots right when it arrived, it is sharp O_o holy crap LOL. Zoomed in on Lightroom and it's definitely up to my standards ^_^. Shot it at 1/200 5.6 ISO100.

[iphonemaster93]

what's the difference between getting a mrc cpl and a non mrc cpl? how does it effect the image quality?

[TCampbell]

MRC  is the multi-resistant coating.   The filter is treated with anti-reflective coatings but also adds layers that resist dirt sticking to it (dirt still sticks to it -- but less of it.)

If you don't have anti-reflective coatings then you can get "ghosting" in your images because light passes through, bounces off the glass on the front of your lens, back out to the filter, and then back into the lens a second time -- giving you strange "ghost" images (bright objects such as lights are particularly likely to do this.)

[ebiggs1]

Fortunately, two things, ghosting is rare and if it is present, the filter screws off as easily as it screwed on.  Funny how some or most people forget that last part!

However in the places where you would want to use a polarizing filter, ghosting will likely be a problem.

[iphonemaster93]

So it won't matter if I purchase a Hoya 67mm Hoya CPL in comparison to a B+W MRC CPL?

[ebiggs1]

"... Hoya 67mm Hoya CPL in comparison to a B+W MRC CPL?"

I wouldn't.  I prefer and most of my filters are B+W.  They are top notch.  However, the fact they can be removed when need be still exists.  You need to assess your requirements and buy accordingly.

[iphonemaster93]

I'm just trying to get the cleanest car shots possible without having reflections on car bodies. I have a Hoya cpl for my 17-55 and that's working out well but was just wondering if getting a MRC version would make the quality come out even better after PP editing. Also, which settings would I need to be in for shooting rolling shots? Say above 70 on the highway? I shoot in shutter speed priority mode and Case 2 (constant focus on subject, avoiding possible obstacles) with tracking sensitivity at -1, accel/decel tracking at 0, and AF pt auto switching at 0, but most of the time (i'd say 9/10 shots), the subject is blurred and I'm using single point AF. Should I use a different AF case or tweak the settings of Case 2? Thought maybe I should give Case 3 (instantly focuses on subjects suddenly entering AF points) a shot with tracking sensitivity at 1, accel/decel tracking at 1, and AF  point auto switching at 0.

[ebiggs1]

" I have a Hoya cpl for my 17-55 and that's working out well ..."

Looks like you answered your own question!

As to the rest, it would be nothing more than a guess without actually seeing the situation myself.