EOS 90D How to set exposure for shades and shadows (more viaduct stuff)

[Ramsden]

Goodmorning from the North of England

The Denby Dale viaduct that we discussed earlier this week, continues to throw up some challenges.

The 19th century structure has 21 arches and a gentle curve. However, the most southerly arch crosses a main road and is quite unique ( please see screen shot) and its called a Skew arch. The hand crafted stones and quoins are remarkable.

My attempts to get some good shots of it earlier this week were thwarted partly because of limited access, but also because it seems to be always partly in shade.

So my question/request for help is twofold, mainly focussing on how to set my EOS90D for a partial shade, and which lens. I'm a macro fan and already know my new 100mm is too big, I've got a nifty fifty, a kit 18-135, a small wide angle 10-18mm and a 85mm  (and a few more)!

The focus my question: I want to capture the arch and the inner stonework while accomodating the permanent shade under the bridge. 

Any good ideas and advice  gladly received.

Ramsden

 

[p4pictures]

One thought is that DPP does have a selective adjustment tool. You can brush over parts of the image that you then adjust the brightness of independently from the main image. This can be helpful for pulling details out of the shadow areas. 

[Ramsden]

Thanks Brian.

I've still a lot to learn, but enjoying the journey.

Ramsden

[FloridaDrafter]

Hello, Ramsden!

Sorry if I've missed this recommendation in this or other threads you've posted, but when I need more dynamic range in a static shot like yours, I use exposure bracketing (AEB). You will need a tripod or some other method of keeping your camera steady, but you will get the desired results. A lot of cameras will allow you to collect up to 7 exposures so you can merge them in post to get better DR. Unfortunately, DPP will only allow 3, but that's usually good enough. Yes, you can manipulate 1 exposure to get better DR, but by using  AEB you may not have to or at least, cut down editing time.

Newton

[TomRamsey]

I think the first thing I would do if possible, is photograph it on an overcast day so you are not fighting the sun.  The shade then should not be such a drastic contrast.

[Ramsden]

Thanks Tom

That's a good idea. I just need the rain to stop at the moment!

Ramsden

[LeeP]

I'd counter that great images are made in post not in the camera.

I'm very much in the SOOC camp and think that the voodoo trickery of software is software skill not photographic skill.

To each his own.

[Ramsden]

Don't laugh - but I had to google SOOC!

However, I firmly belong to that school of thought. But, as you say: each to their own.

I used to work in quality management, and getting it right first time was a well worn, and deserved mantra. Good equipment, well trained people and a clear strategy. I even attended a couple of conferences in the USA. Dr Deming ring any bells?

My learning curve with my EOS90D continues apace, and I have learn't such a lot from you guys.

Cheers

Ramsden

[atam1]

you could just so an exposure bracketing as well. get a tripod, set on Manual, turn off IS (if any), focus manually, then fire 3 shots ( standand, -1, +1). Merge them in post, fine tune, & polish. 

[Ramsden]

Thanks.

I really like the sound of that procedure. As I gain confidence in using my camera, that sits nicely in my comfort zone.

Ramsden