As others have pointed out -- the link is genuine. A number of sites now use these "short" URLs which are easier to share.
However... because cautious when encountering something unexpected is certainly wise. When in doubt, if you use the "Firefox" web browser (I normally do not, but I keep it on my computer specifically so I can do the following) you can get an "Add-on" called "NoScript".
Go to the Firefox "Tools" pull-down menu and select "Add-ons" then click "Get Add-Ons" and search for an add-on named "NoScript". NoScript disables Javascript in the browser on a website-by-website basis (so it can be enabled for sites you trust, and disabled for sites you don't trust (and by default it doesn't trust anything until you tell it to trust it.)) NoScript also watches for a number of other malicious attacks that websites will use and blocks them too.
With this enabled, you can test a website knowing that it wont be able to launch anything on your computer and when you determine that the website is ok, you can tell it to enable scripting on that site.
Craig, VERY nice video and thanks for sharing your tips on tilt-shift, long exposures, and panoramas.
I also own the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II and confess that learning to adjust tilt angle to the plane of intended focus took a while to learn.
There is a math formula for determine the tilt-angle based on knowing the distance of the lens axis to the surface where you want the plane of focus. (tilt angle in degrees = arcsine(focal-length of the lens) / distance from the lens axis to the intended plane of focus (and that's in millimeters since the lens focal length is in millimeters)). I can't see photographers using rulers and calculators to work out the angle but if you toy with the formula you come to the realization that the closer the lens is to the intended plane of focus then the greater the tilt-angle needs to be. The higher the camera is above the plane of focus, the less the tilt-angle will need to be (which, to me, became a bit of a confirmation when I'd adjust the camera that I was at least "in the ballpark.")
If doing tethered shooting, there's a program named Kuuvik Capture which has some nice features for tilt-shift lenses... one is multi-point focus aid and the other is focus peaking. Basically you frame up the shot and click the points in the shot that need to be in sharp focus. Those points that you clicked will give you large windows showing magnified detail of those areas (in the same way that you used 10x live-view to focus the cliffs in the background and then had to move the 10x bounding box down to the rock in the foreground to achieve focus... their "multi-point" control lets you see both 10x boxes on the computer screen at the same time (so that's nice)). The "focus peaking" causes the areas of maximum focus to twinkle (the sharp edges get a sort of animated static/snow appearence so you can be sure the computer believes you've achieved focus if you don't trust your eyes.)
Kuuvik Capture only runs on a computer so it's only going to work for tethered shooting (probably not what you want for landscapes... but if you use your lens in a studio stituation then it's great.)
Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da
