Really unhappy with EOS R6. Curious to know if others have similar Wi-Fi, IBIS, color issues.

[johninbigd]

I previously had a 60D, a 6D, then an R. I recently upgraded to the R6 and have mostly been unhappy with the expenditure. I do love the improved eye AF. That makes shooting a breeze! I also love the AF joystick and and the return of the old style control wheel. So nice! But.....the problems.

In order of mild to worst:

1. Horrible wifi connectivity problems

2. IBIS doesn't seem to work with any of my lenses (Tamron and Sigma, through an adapter)

3. Colors are horrible and photos lack contrast, creating a flat smeared sort of look that is really unpleasant

I process my photos in Lightroom Classic and have the most recent version available. I had zero problems with the 60D, 6D and R. Photos from any of those bodies look fantastic, especially the R. Colors are vibrant, skin tones are gorgeous, and there is plenty of contrast. I've done two shoots with the R6 and I absolutely hate the results. So much so that I'm already considering selling it. It's too late to return it, unfortunately. 

Have any of you run into these issues, particularly with the color and contrast?

[jrhoffman75]

I agree calibration is very important, especially if one is printing, but in this thread the OP is comparing two images, so a calibration bias would most likely impact both images the same. 

I personally would have no confidence in assessments of camera differences unless I compared output using Canon DPP. The output from any third party software is dependent on how good the created camera profiles are. 

The other option would be to rely on camera created JPEGs with similar settings. 

[Canonoli]

What you are doing is creating a proflie for the camera and lens you are using at the time for a shoot.
Like your camera and a lens, but that is not the same as creating the profiles that match your camera settings.
You have Camera Neutral, Camera Standard, Camera Portrait and so on.

Here is what you are doing, plus you need to buy the Mcbeath color checker which is not cheap and more for people that know what they are doing. Unfortunetly this person is trying out trial software.. lol funny thread.

I have a xrite calibator and you would do yourself a favour spending $15 US dollars.

wow spend over 3k for a camera but too cheap to buy the proflies. A much cheaper solution to solve the problem.

[Canonoli]

For a guy that has a 10k camera the Mark III (hybid) Calibration is used for printing so that what you see on your screen matches your prints. Calibrating your monitor does not instantly change the image to go WOW look at that difference that calibration made. It is for people that print photos.

The people that made the proflies I suggested had multiple images sent to them by users that actually own the cameras. DAH!

Myself a 40+ year photographer that only used pro bodies like the 1D Mark II, Mark III, Mark IV, and  1 dx and 1dx !!
Personally I would not drop the 10k for the Hybrid Mark III and glad I did not buy that camera and got the R5 and 85 1.2 for what you paid for the Mark III and no animal eye auto focus on the brick you own which is a great camera but not worth the asking price.

I shoot wildlife and mostly birds in flight. And comparing the excellent 1Dx Mark II to the R5
I have no regrets moving to mirroless, and just purchased the 28-70 F2 for 4k in Canada.

Oh and I also own the new Pro 300 printer.... and I have been shooting since the 70's film era to digital to mirrorless.
So I do  think I know a little bit about the hobby.

So try all the software you can until you find the one that has the right profiles... and all the other things that Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop does so well.

[johninbigd]

---

@shawnphoto wrote:

• Which settings? Many of the settings can be set in camera thus saving you time in DPP. I haven't used my R5 enough yet, only shot one wedding with it, but initial impressions are that it is much better than the R. However like you said, the R is easier to get a decent image, however with a little tweak here and there the R5 makes it easier to get an exceptional image. Just gotta learn the tool! And the R6 is definitely going to give you a high quality image, it's a little cleaner than the R too. Worst case you could just shoot jpeg and call it a day!

---

Yikes. Shooting JPEG is the last thing I'd want to try, but I might do it if I can't solve this problem. As I mentioned last night, I discovered that I can get the nice colors and skin tones I'm used to if I open the the raw files in DPP, set the picture style to Faithful, make a couple of other develop settings changes as necessary, then save it as a TIFF.  Setting the camera to Faithful just affects the JPEGs and I don't shoot JPEG.

I honestly don't understand why this is such a struggle. I've been shooting for 12 years and never had a problem like this with my 60D, 6D, or EOS R. And my workflow has been generally unchanged during that time except for perhaps a bit more Ps as my skills improved. I'm starting to get the feeling that the R6 (and presumably the 1DX mk iii) just have bad skin tones SOOC. Maybe that's why you rarely hear of anyone using the 1DX mk iii as a portrait camera.

[johninbigd]

---

@Canonoli wrote:

What you are doing is creating a proflie for the camera and lens you are using at the time for a shoot.
Like your camera and a lens, but that is not the same as creating the profiles that match your camera settings.
You have Camera Neutral, Camera Standard, Camera Portrait and so on.

Here is what you are doing, plus you need to buy the Mcbeath color checker which is not cheap and more for people that know what they are doing. Unfortunetly this person is trying out trial software.. lol funny thread.

I have a xrite calibator and you would do yourself a favour spending $15 US dollars.

wow spend over 3k for a camera but too cheap to buy the proflies. A much cheaper solution to solve the problem.

---

I've mentioned three times that I got the profiles! They look worse than the Adobe profiles. I'm sorry, but please stop telling me to buy the colorfidelity profiles. I HAVE THEM. That was the first solution I tried for this problem.

[shawnphoto]

---

@johninbigd wrote:

---

@shawnphoto wrote:

• Which settings? Many of the settings can be set in camera thus saving you time in DPP. I haven't used my R5 enough yet, only shot one wedding with it, but initial impressions are that it is much better than the R. However like you said, the R is easier to get a decent image, however with a little tweak here and there the R5 makes it easier to get an exceptional image. Just gotta learn the tool! And the R6 is definitely going to give you a high quality image, it's a little cleaner than the R too. Worst case you could just shoot jpeg and call it a day!

---

Yikes. Shooting JPEG is the last thing I'd want to try, but I might do it if I can't solve this problem. As I mentioned last night, I discovered that I can get the nice colors and skin tones I'm used to if I open the the raw files in DPP, set the picture style to Faithful, make a couple of other develop settings changes as necessary, then save it as a TIFF.  Setting the camera to Faithful just affects the JPEGs and I don't shoot JPEG.

I honestly don't understand why this is such a struggle. I've been shooting for 12 years and never had a problem like this with my 60D, 6D, or EOS R. And my workflow has been generally unchanged during that time except for perhaps a bit more Ps as my skills improved. I'm starting to get the feeling that the R6 (and presumably the 1DX mk iii) just have bad skin tones SOOC. Maybe that's why you rarely hear of anyone using the 1DX mk iii as a portrait camera.

---

Wrong. The settings you set in camera get applied to RAW files in DPP. All you do is complain, I'm done with this conversation.

[johninbigd]

What do you mean all I do is complain? I'm trying to explain what I've tried and what works and doesn't. I'm not sure why you're upset. I'm trying the things you suggest. In my experience, setting the picture style in camera does not affect the raw file at all. It has only affected the JPEG. I'm more than happy to test it again, but I just did that in a shoot last week. I sometimes set my picture style to monochrome so I can see the image in B&W and focus just on the light. That doesn't make the image a monochrome image. Until this problem started happening, I'd never used DPP, so I had no idea it applied those settings. I'm not sure how that helps as I still would need to open the image in DPP first then save it as a TIFF, then load the TIFF into Lr or whatever other editing tool I want to use. If that's what I have to do to solve this, I will. 

Not sure why you're mad at me. I've tried everything suggested in this thread so far.  I'm trying to find a feasible workflow that doesn't involve using three different apps. I'm frustrated and looking for a solution that isn't convoluted. Loading all my images into DPP and converting them to TIFFs and then loading them into Lr with further editing in Ps is convoluted. If it's the only way to make this work, I will do it, but you have to admit that's not the best workflow, nor is it going to great for disk space.

[johninbigd]

From Canon support:

"Picture Styles can also be applied to RAW files, either during or after exposure. For RAW files the Picture Style affects only how images are rendered on the camera’s LED display. The closer the Picture Style is to your intended rendering, the more accurate your image preview will be. For example, if you intend to convert RAW images to black and white, the Monochrome Picture Style will provide a preview of the image in black and white while retaining all original color information in the RAW file. (Monochrome JPEG or MOV images can not be reconverted back to color.) 

Any Picture Styles applied to RAW files can later be changed or modified. When applied during post-processing with the Canon Digital Photo Professional (DPP) raw developer you can apply any Picture Style you like, whenever you like. The Picture Style you choose will not become a permanent part of the rendering until you export the RAW file as a JPEG or TIFF. "

So, like I said, the picture style does not change the raw file.

[jrhoffman75]

---

@johninbigd wrote:

What do you mean all I do is complain? I'm trying to explain what I've tried and what works and doesn't. I'm not sure why you're upset. I'm trying the things you suggest. In my experience, setting the picture style in camera does not affect the raw file at all. It has only affected the JPEG. I'm more than happy to test it again, but I just did that in a shoot last week. I sometimes set my picture style to monochrome so I can see the image in B&W and focus just on the light. That doesn't make the image a monochrome image. Until this problem started happening, I'd never used DPP, so I had no idea it applied those settings. I'm not sure how that helps as I still would need to open the image in DPP first then save it as a TIFF, then load the TIFF into Lr or whatever other editing tool I want to use. If that's what I have to do to solve this, I will. 

Not sure why you're mad at me. I've tried everything suggested in this thread so far.  I'm trying to find a feasible workflow that doesn't involve using three different apps. I'm frustrated and looking for a solution that isn't convoluted. Loading all my images into DPP and converting them to TIFFs and then loading them into Lr with further editing in Ps is convoluted. If it's the only way to make this work, I will do it, but you have to admit that's not the best workflow, nor is it going to great for disk space.

---

Since you are shooting RAW why don't you upload to a Dropbox or One Drive folder files from a camera that is giving you what you want and aso upload files from the R6 that are not how you like them. Then some of us could look at them and perhaps see what you are seeing.

[johninbigd]

---

@jrhoffman75 wrote:

---

@johninbigd wrote:

What do you mean all I do is complain? I'm trying to explain what I've tried and what works and doesn't. I'm not sure why you're upset. I'm trying the things you suggest. In my experience, setting the picture style in camera does not affect the raw file at all. It has only affected the JPEG. I'm more than happy to test it again, but I just did that in a shoot last week. I sometimes set my picture style to monochrome so I can see the image in B&W and focus just on the light. That doesn't make the image a monochrome image. Until this problem started happening, I'd never used DPP, so I had no idea it applied those settings. I'm not sure how that helps as I still would need to open the image in DPP first then save it as a TIFF, then load the TIFF into Lr or whatever other editing tool I want to use. If that's what I have to do to solve this, I will. 

Not sure why you're mad at me. I've tried everything suggested in this thread so far.  I'm trying to find a feasible workflow that doesn't involve using three different apps. I'm frustrated and looking for a solution that isn't convoluted. Loading all my images into DPP and converting them to TIFFs and then loading them into Lr with further editing in Ps is convoluted. If it's the only way to make this work, I will do it, but you have to admit that's not the best workflow, nor is it going to great for disk space.

---

Since you are shooting RAW why don't you upload to a Dropbox or One Drive folder files from a camera that is giving you what you want and aso upload files from the R6 that are not how you like them. Then some of us could look at them and perhaps see what you are seeing.

---

That's a great idea! Since you all don't see what I'm seeing, it's kind of difficult for you to give advice. I'll find a couple good examples when I get off work and will post them. 

And keep in mind that I fully expect this to end up being user error on my part somehow. I really appreciate all the ideas and advice, so far. I'm frustrated with the problem, not with you all trying to help.