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R8 underexposed images on Tv mode

JohnCJ
Contributor

Hello,

 

purchased my R8 in Dec 2023 and I was very excited. 
In Oct 2024 with my wife went Barcelona and few other European countries. 
I took R8 with RF 24-105 4-7.1,  RF 24/1.8 STM and RF 35/1.8 STM

 

The weather was nice and sunny, I set my R8 to Tv mode, 1/320, aperture wherever it falls, EV 0, AUTO ISO 100-200. 

I took 1,800 RAW images for the entire trip and to my surprise 90% of the images were underexposed and they look dim and dark when I imported the RAW files in Capture One PRO.

 

Even when I use R8 with Godox TT350c indoors, the images are too dark and contrasty. 
In the Picture Profile, I use Standard and lowered the Contrast to -3, still dark and contrasty images. 

My wife has a chepo Nikon Zfc and when we take photos at the same subjects, same lighting, same setting everything the same, her images are brighter, properly exposed and more pleasing to our eyes. 

Is there a setting or something I can adjust, so I can get properly exposed images in Tv mode and in general, so I can start loving my R8 ?

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

Looking at the photos of the back of camera there are a couple of points to know that will affect the apparent brightness of the photos.

  • When shooting in Tv mode, you have switched auto lighting optimiser off. (This is the icon in the lower left corner) In the auto modes this is enabled by default and cannot be switched off. ALO lightens shadows amongst other things.
  • You are using the standard picture style in Tv mode, but the camera will use AUTO style with the default settings. You have changed standard for Tv mode to be lower contrast, and increased saturation
  • The limitation you set for auto ISO to only range from 100-800 means the if the scene is underexposed at ISO 800 and the lens can open to f/5.6 max then underexposure will result. In auto the ISO can range from 100 to 25,600. Your "garden test scene" seems to need ISO a little beyond ISO 800. Hence the histogram slightly more to the left than the shots at ISO 1000 or 1250. You may want to try increasing the range of AUTO ISO up to 3200 so that the camera has a reasonable range to work with. 

As you are shooting RAW + JPG, then the picture style settings and ALO only affect the JPG images and on-camera preview. You could use more standard settings and Fine Detail picture style for better looking JPGs from the camera. The RAW will still have the same data so can be processed as you choose in the software you like. Only Canon DPP software will read the settings for ALO and Picture Style from the image as it's starting point for displaying the RAW image.

 


Brian
EOS specialist trainer, photographer and author
-- Note: my spell checker is set for EN-GB, not EN-US --

View solution in original post

19 REPLIES 19

I’m sure a faster lens would help - and Canon always is grateful for more sales - , but it’s a lot cheaper and a simple fix to increase the auto ISO range to up to a max of ISO 3200. I regularly use much higher ISO on my comparable R6 Mark II and don’t worry until ISO 12,800! 


Brian
EOS specialist trainer, photographer and author
-- Note: my spell checker is set for EN-GB, not EN-US --

JohnCJ
Contributor

Pictures didn’t come out great, but the Histogram tells the tale.  

Can you put RAW images in a file sharing service such as Google Drive. So we can look at the metadata attached to each picture. Were you taking these pictures with flash or without. If so were those pictures with a Godox speedlite they’re NOT compatible with the EOS R series. 

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 5D Mark IV
Lenses: EF Trinity, EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Retired Gear: EOS 40D, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM & EF 70-210mm F/4
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

These pictures I just took are without flash.  Godox TT350c is compatible with EOS R8. 

It’s not fully compatible with the EOS R series. That speedlite causes EOS R series cameras to lock up all the time in low light. They also underexpose pictures too and some other issues going on. Are these pictures underexposed still in Full Auto without flash. There are some scenarios where you have to add Exposure Compensation (EC). Especially when it’s sunny the camera will underexpose in that situation. 

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 5D Mark IV
Lenses: EF Trinity, EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Retired Gear: EOS 40D, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM & EF 70-210mm F/4
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

My Godox TT350c is FULLY compatible with my EOS R8. 
My Godox TT350c NEVER locked my R8 in low light. 

NONE of the pictures I posted were taken using flash. 

Increasing EV to compensate for underexposed image in Tv mode does not do anything because the Tv mode will compensate for the increase. 

Are you using Auto ISO? 

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 5D Mark IV
Lenses: EF Trinity, EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Retired Gear: EOS 40D, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM & EF 70-210mm F/4
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

Yes, AUTO ISO 100-800

If you manually set an ISO . Then you dial in EC then you override the camera’s exposure choice. What lens or lenses are you using on the camera. Now the flash incompatibility is something different. The speedlite’s AF Assist Beam will lock the camera up. If the camera is set to One Shot and the camera can’t lock focus in low light. If the ambient lighting is inadequate for the camera to AF. The camera will use the speedlite for AF Assist. But the Godox speedlite doesn’t understand modified AF Assist Beam signal from the camera. Causing the speedlite to fire a pre-flash and cause the camera to lock up. Canon’s EOS R series cameras use Intermittent Flash to focus in low light. But 3rd Party speedlites don’t support that. All of Canon’s speedlites do. The old school IR AF Assist Beam is INCOMPATIBLE with ALL mirrorless camera systems. Note the beam is NOT IR. It’s just a red grid pattern aligned with AF sensors in a DSLR or AF SLR.

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 5D Mark IV
Lenses: EF Trinity, EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Retired Gear: EOS 40D, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM & EF 70-210mm F/4
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

JohnCJ
Contributor

Let’s leave the flash question aside, for a moment. 

Look at the picture that shows Tv mode used and look at that Histogram and let’s try to determine why the exposure is to the left of the middle point.

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