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Need Help With Jewelry Photography! Canon Rebel t5

Metalsmith
Apprentice

Hey Everyone,

I own the Canon Rebel t5 and I have the standard 58mm lens and a 60mm macro lens. I shoot my jewelry photographs in a Foldio light box.

 

I am a super beginner with my Canon and so far have found the most success shooting in the Manual Exposure setting. I typically use a shutter speed between 1/500, 1/640 or 1/800, it seems to give me the brightest results. My aperture was always around F5 and ISO1600. Here is what i'm hoping to achieve and unable to:

 

*A jewelry shot that is completely in focus

 

*As white a background as possible (I currently shoot in the lightbox on top of white computer paper)

 

I have tried changing the aperture but it still seems that I still can't get the entire ring, necklace, or earring in focus and this is critical so that I can then edit in photoshop. I've also tried the macro setting but photos come out too dark when I can't change the shutter speed.

 

I'm very open to everyones suggestions and expertise. My jewelry website is www.metalribbonstudio.com I hired a photographer for a some photos but the backgrounds she gave me were gray so I have to redo a lot of my photos and a ton of the ones I have taken are blurry in the background, in focus in the foreground.

 

Cheers,

Corkie

23 REPLIES 23

Peter
Authority
Authority

LED and no flashes? Then try Av mode, f16. iso 100 or 200 and the shutter speed will be whatever the camera chooses. If the image will be too dark, exposure compensate with +1 or +2.

You will need a tripod and 2 seconds shutter release.

diverhank
Authority

I think you can improve your result with a few things, based on what you have described.

 

1.  If you haven't already, set your camera on a steady tripod.  This is a must for some of the subsequent points.

2. Set your ISO to 100

3. Set your aperture to f/11 or f/16 (larger value may give you diffraction error - less sharp, depending on lens)

4. Adjust the speed as appropriate...this might be several seconds but that's OK,the camera is on a tripod.

5. You need to set the proper white balance.  This will help greatly in making your white background to look white.

5.1  Take a picture of just your white background for use in a custom white balance. You may need to switch your lens to manual focus so you can take a picture and it doesn't have to be in focus.  Use this picture to set your manual white balance (consult your manual for how to do it).    OR

5.2 For this kind of photography, I use  daylight (5500 degrees K) light bulbs to illuminate the objects and it looks great with auto white balance. OR

5.3 Set manual white balance in degrees K using liveview until everything looks right, especially the background.

6. Since the lens has to be close to the jewelry to fill the frame, as you've discovered, the depth of field is shallow.  A larger aperture value as in step 3 will help but may not be enough.  If you require everything to be in sharp focus, you need to do focus stacking - a procedure where you take a series of photos (up to 30), each with a different focus point (you manually focus) and use post processing (photoshop can do this with ease) to combine them together to make one photo with everything in focus.  You can google on how to do this easy enough.  This is a must for macro photography so there are thousands of instructions, including youtube videos.

 

Let me know how you fare if you decide to try my suggestions... 🙂

 

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Diverhank's photos on Flickr

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

"I have tried changing the aperture but it still seems that I still can't get the entire ring, necklace, or earring in focus and this is critical so that I can then edit in photoshop. I've also tried the macro setting but photos come out too dark when I can't change the shutter speed."

 

What you need is software that performs "focus stacking."  There are some free packages out there, and some that cost money. 

 

The_Quarter.jpg

 

The image of the quarter was created from six separate shots, with each shot focusing in on a different part of the quarter's face.  Imagine that the quarter was sliced, horizontally, into six pieces.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."


@Waddizzle wrote:

"I have tried changing the aperture but it still seems that I still can't get the entire ring, necklace, or earring in focus and this is critical so that I can then edit in photoshop. I've also tried the macro setting but photos come out too dark when I can't change the shutter speed."

 

What you need is software that performs "focus stacking."  There are some free packages out there, and some that cost money. 

 

The_Quarter.jpg

 

The image of the quarter was created from six separate shots, with each shot focusing in on a different part of the quarter's face.  Imagine that the quarter was sliced, horizontally, into six pieces.


This picture, which Waddizzle has shown us several times, is a striking display of masterly, but time consuming, technique. The reason that technique was necessary is that the coin is positioned at a shallow angle to the axis of the lens, greatly increasing the required depth of field. If your requirements allow the jewelry to be photographed from directly overhead, you shouldn't need to consider such heroic measures.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

"This picture, which Waddizzle has shown us several times, is a striking display of masterly, but time consuming, technique. The reason that technique was necessary is that the coin is positioned at a shallow angle to the axis of the lens, greatly increasing the required depth of field. If your requirements allow the jewelry to be photographed from directly overhead, you shouldn't need to consider such heroic measures." 

 

Thanks, for the compliment, Bob. 

 

The angle must have been somewhere close to 45 degrees.  The Depth of Field at that angle covered about 1/3 of the quarter's face.  The DoF was well under an inch, perhaps as short as 1/4 of an inch, if not even less. 

 

Had I focused straight down at the quarter, I probably could have managed to get the entire face of the quarter in focus.  But, how many pieces of jewelry that you are photographing are as thin as a quarter, or less than 1/4 of an inch thick?

 

BTW, I took 6 shots so that I could have a bit of overlap between the images.  I started at the bottom, the closest part of the subject to me, and worked by way "up" to the most distant part of the subject, which is what the software was looking for...nearest to farthest.

 

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I would advise getting a tripod and head that is rated at least 4-5 times the weight of your heaviest camera/lens combo that you expect to use.  That probably works out to somewhere near 17 pounds, at a minimum.  That's a good start, now double it.  Some manufacturers are overly optimistic with their "load capacities" of their tripods. 

 

The load ratings most likely apply when the center column is fully retracted, and with the legs extended to their minimum distance.  Once you start raising the center column and extending the legs, instability will creep into the picture, which is one reason why getting your hands on what seems to be an overly robust tripod is a good thing, most especially if you're using it in a studio, or some other controlled environment where you're not carrying it around. 

 

Tripod heads can be similarly overly rated by the manufacturers.  I have found a liking for Benro and Induro, which are two names from the same parent brand.  I like ball heads that have a separate friction adjustment.  I prefer pan/tilt heads over ball heads for precision shots.  I also like to use leveling adapters between the head and the tripod.

 

If you get serious about macro photography, then some macro rails might be a good investment.  Prices for rails can vary widely.  I shot the quarter with a pretty strong pan/tilt head, Induro PHD3, which is rated at over 70+ pounds.  Everything else was rated just as high.  The head was mounted on an Induro 8M Alloy 100mm tripod, with a Gitzo Series 5 pnuematic ball mounted in the bowl as a leveling adapter.  The Gitzo head has exceptional friction control.  I also use a Sunwayfoto leveling plate, which is nothing more than flat plat with an oversized bubble level, under the PHD3 head.  I use the Gitzo head to level the plate, which naturally levels the head.

 

Why so much horsepower in my tripod set up?  I used an EOS 6D, with a battery grip, and the 16-35mm lens listed just below, to photograph the quarter.  The camera, battery grip, and lens must have weighed well over 5 pounds.  I manually focused with Live View, which meant I would be touching the camera quite a bit to adjust the focus for the six shots.  So, I wanteded something that would not move, wouldn't budge, and not by a hair.  BTW, most photo stacking software can align images, but I wasn't going to rely too heavily on that feature.

 

Please, ask questions about any tripod and head combo that you wish to purchase.  Stay away from the plastic tripods sold at the big box stores.  Look for metal tripods that allow for interchangeable heads.  My "legs" are made from an aluminum/magnesium alloy, as well as the head.  My advice will run towards the more robust the better, which does not mean you need to spend a whole lot.  I bide my time, and take advantage of clearance sales. 

 

There is no need to rush into a tripod purchase.  I recently purchased a "travel tripod", which consists of a Benro COM37AL tripod, which has no center column and comes with an excellent, oversized, well padded case, and a Benro V3 ball head.  I recently purchased the pair at nearly 66% off list price.  I use a Sunwayfoto Leveling adapter base.  The entire setup fits into the tripod case without need to disassemble it!  Most would not consider such a setup to a "travel tripod", but I'm a big guy.

 

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"The right mouse button is your friend."

ScottyP
Authority

The whole thing is an exercise of getting enough light into the camera to give you a proper exposure. Rather than memorize the very good suggestions offered by the two contributors above, watch a couple of free 5-10 minute videos on Google explaining the "exposure triangle".  

 

The he jewelry isn't moving, so you don't have to use a fast shutter speed like 1/640th, etc.  use a tripod to eliminate hand shake and you can take as long an exposure as you need. 

 

Do do not use high ISO. It destroys your image quality. ISO 100 is the best. As you will be on a tripod you can again just use a long slow shutter and you don't need to dial up a high ugly ISO. 

 

You you also want a high f/number which is a small aperture opening because it gives a deep depth of field in focus so the whole piece of jewelry will be sharp. Again, the tripod lets you pinch down the opening by letting you make up that lost light with a longer exposure. 

Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

"The jewelry isn't moving, so you don't have to use a fast shutter speed like 1/640th, etc.  use a tripod to eliminate hand shake and you can take as long an exposure as you need. " 

 

Long exposure, which is exactly how the quarter was photographed.  I used ambient light, a rather robust tripod, and the camera's two second timer to take the shots.  I think my exposures were around 1/4 second each.  I used a 35mm lens, and a 14mm extension tube.  Yup, I cheated.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

"*As white a background as possible (I currently shoot in the lightbox on top of white computer paper)." 

 

If you want an absolute white background, then you will need to perform some post-processing on the images.  Adobe's Photoshop Elements can probably do all that you need, ... so can some freeware, like Paint_Dot_Net. 

 

If you want perfect backgrounds, then take a beauty shot of a perfect background.  Then, take a beauty shot of your item, and use the software to cut out the jewelry from the image, so that you can layer it onto your perfect background.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."

Metalsmith
Apprentice

Thank you so much for the suggestions thus far. The first thing I need to do is get a tripod. I haven't been using one. I will order one today which will allow for me to begin to experiment with some of the suggestions below.

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