EOS R8 RF50mm F1.8 STM - Washed out images of the sunrise

[JimmyCanon]

Hello,
The images we attempt to take of the sunrise are washed out badly.
1 Manual settings
2 Auto focus - Single point center

As the sun came up, we adjusted the ISO - Aperture - Shutter speed. All washed out.

We took a video, and it turned out very good.

We use single-point center focus for various reasons. Could this be part of the issue? Is it possibly causing the camera to also take the lighting information only from the center of the image?

Any help would be appreciated.

[Tronhard]

Hi and welcome the forum:

First, without actual images along with the EXIF settings, it's hard for us to comment, but there are a couple of meaningful thoughts...

Focus will not have an impact exposure unless you have tied the exposure to the focus point - which is possible with AE lock.  Check your manual and menu on that: c013.pdf (start.canon), and consider P172 as it does take exposure from the centre.   If you have exposure lock assigned to the * button, then the procedure is:
1. place the centre on something that is offers a mid-reflectance (you should see the result as you do so in the EVF
2. focus where you wish (depends on subject and aperture) and lock that - I prefer BBF with servo no focus on shutter button
3. recompose and take the shot.

Did you take a photo of the sunrise that was not manual?

[stevet1]

JimmyCanon,

When you say you took a video, and the video footage turned out good, do you remember what Mode you used? Did you take your video in Manual Mode, or did you use Auto or one of the semi-Auto Modes?

Did you compare the settings of the video against the settings of your stills. In Auto or semi-Auto Modes for your videos, the camera is going to be choosing your settings for you, and they might be different from what you had for yourself for the stills in Manual Mode.

Also, what metering mode are you using for your stills? Evaluative, or Partial, or Spot?

If it's Evaluative, your camera will meter where your focus is. If it's Partial, or Spot, or Center-weighted Average, it will meter in the center of your frame. If the center of your frame is dark, it will overexposed the lighter areas of your picture.

Trevor gave you good advice. Point the center of your camera at a neutral point that is lit like you want, like the grass, meter off that and lock your exposure with your AE lock button. Use BBF in Servo Mode, and while holding down that focusing button, swing your camera around, compose the shot you want to take and hit the shutter button.

I think that will help.

Steve Thomas

[JimmyCanon]

Hey Steve,

When you say you took a video, and the video footage turned out good, do you remember what Mode you used?

Answer: No, I am not sure what the settings were, we just wanted to run a test to compare them.I have never previously taken video with the camera. I will look at the settings.

Did you take your video in Manual Mode, or did you use Auto or one of the semi-Auto Modes?

Answer: Not sure until I check the settings. I mentioned the video because I think it indicates this is an issue with settings. Thought it would be easy to run down.It is slightly washed out but nothing like the example images above.

Also, what metering mode are you using for your stills? Evaluative, or Partial, or Spot?

Answer: Not sure. The settings were done six months ago and I have not used the camera since. I used it for product shots and is worked great.

Please have a look at the example picture I just uploaded. I will get you guys whatever information you need.

[Tronhard]

Well, looking at this, not knowing the point of exposure or the EXIF data: f/stop, shutter speed and ISO, I will gauge this on what I see, which is not that bad.
The problem is one of dynamic range.  What we see will always exceed between white and black, by a significant degree, what the camera is capable of capturing.  This is very much a function of brain power allowing us to adjust between light and shadow over a few seconds.  We do suffer shock when suddenly faced with extremes like coming from a dark room into the sunlight.

So, looking at your image, I would say that the limiting factor is that the camera is seeing the sun full on, (one of the hardest things to do) and that is blowing out that area, whereas other areas fall outside its range to encompass deep shadow.  How to get past that?

One of my favourite photographers, Sean Tucker, has a couple of videos out on the subject of contrast, and as a bit of a philosopher the connects that to life experiences:

and...

 and

Well, you could try an High Dynamic Range shot - where the camera (preferably on a tripod) will take three or more shots at different exposures in rapid succession and combine them into a merged JPG file that flattens out the range.   The instructions for this are on P182 of the Canon EOS R8 Advanced User Guide v1.3.0 Firmware or later.

The other solution is to not shoot the sun directly, but catch it just before it rises or just after it sets, or is in cloud to some degree.  That reduces the dynamic range and sculpts the light on the cloud.  For example.
Fuji X-T4, XF 15-80@52mm, f/10, 1/25sec, ISO-320 EOS 60D, EF-S 15-85@15mm, f/10, 1/250sec, ISO-400
EOS M, EF-M 22mm, f/8, 1/100sec, ISO-200

BTW, it is one thing to take a shot of the sun directly with a relatively low power lens, but it is dangerous to you and your camera to shoot that way with a high magnification telephoto.

I understand you had reasons for shooting in manual, but I would suggest for environments outside the studio, where you have less control over the light, start with Av mode and play with the settings the camera suggests, taking note of what you expose on and the dynamic range shown in the histograms.  It's very enlightening -  no pun intended!