03-25-2026
01:55 PM
- last edited on
03-25-2026
01:57 PM
by
Danny
I shoot sports and am having issues with the camera focusing on the wrong people (about half the time. With tracking set, the focusing point does not appear to be working at all.)
For example, last night I was trying to get a lacrosse player in focus, but the camera kept focusing on the near subjects. Even though I had the focusing point CLEARLY on the player's face, the focus kept jumping to faces nearest the camera.
Here is how the AF is set: People, single-point, auto-eye detection. Back button focus, front button only releases shutter. My lens is an EF 70-200 f2.8 with an adaptor.
BTW: If I enable front focus, the focusing point is active and functioning correctly; however, I lose all tracking capability.
My main issue is, why can't I determine which subjects to focus on instead of the camera (which mostly gets it wrong).
Solved! Go to Solution.
03-25-2026 04:32 PM - edited 03-25-2026 04:34 PM
bill,
You wrote, " Even though I had the focusing point CLEARLY on the player's face, the focus kept jumping to faces nearest the camera."
I could very well be wrong, but I think this is a feature of the focusing system, and not a fault.
If I understand it correctly, when you use a whole area to focus in, the camera will pick the nearest subject. You have it on eye detect, but it's focusing on the eye of the nearest subject.
Just for the heck of it, take it off tracking, and just single point AF. Train it on the eye of the subject you want to capture and hit your shutter. If the subject is moving, use AI Servo,
If you have learned how to set up back button focus, you can hold down your AF-ON button with your thumb while you fire off a burst of 10 or 12 shots, and your camera will continue to focus as long as your hold down that button.
Steve Thomas
03-25-2026 07:12 PM - edited 03-25-2026 07:15 PM
“ It focuses on the eyes and can keep up with high speed Plus electronic shutter just fine. My problem is it keeps focusing on the wrong person! “
Those two statements are mutually exclusive. I suspect that your lens is not keeping up with the necessary SF speed for the frame rates you’re asking of it.
We are going to nerd much more information about your camera settings and shooting location and conditions.
For a field sport like lacrosse, it would be beneficial to use a significantly longer focal length than 200mm. Eye tracking doesn’t work if the subject is too small in the frame.
These settings are not as demanding on lens performance.
Enable Whole Area Tracking, thought.
03-25-2026 07:41 PM
@bill1952 I would take a look at what @Waddizzle posted. He owns the same camera as you. I would also suggest discontinuing using H+ shooting mode with that lens. It’s just too slow for that kind of frame rate. Just use Continuous High shooting drive mode. Not H+ drive mode because the lens will cause the camera to slow down.
03-26-2026 04:36 PM
Lacrosse is a sport where other than posed shots, the protective gear is going to prevent clean eye detection in most situations so eye detect is not useful. It is also one of the fastest moving sports with a lot of very fast action changes so I would go with single point with four point expansion AF with the selected part of the array around typical chest height. Use AF servo and I believe that AF Case IV is the most appropriate but depending upon your shooting location you may find Case II useful if you have interfering subjects frequently crossing your field of view.
You should be shooting at a high enough shutter speed that image stabilization isn't needed so make sure that you don't have the lens stabilizer turned on, especially if you aren't using the LP-E6P version which maintains system voltage better under high current drain compared to the LP-E6NH. As system current demand increases, a drop in system voltage reduces AF performance. The slowdown with EF lenses is primarily based upon the response of the aperture assembly in the lens which needs to be able to step value with every frame.
To me, Lacrosse is the most difficult field sport to shoot however my camera setup (2 1DX III bodies with EF 400 and EF 70-200 f2.8 lens with aperture set wide open, manual exposure with auto ISO, typically AF case 4 normally single point AF with four point expansion) is the same that I use for soccer and football. I have never been a fan of splitting the AF and release buttons since I always shoot sports with two bodies and sometimes three and often switch bodies during a single action sequence so the less places I have to worry about exact finger placement, the better.
I do make use of the handy array of AF stop buttons on my 200-400 1.4X and great white primes and I have the AF button on the back of the camera programmed for AF stop for those rare occasions when I want to freeze AF.
Rodger
03-26-2026 07:23 PM - edited 03-26-2026 07:25 PM
Rodger wrote,
” To me, Lacrosse is the most difficult field sport to shoot however my camera setup (2 1DX III bodies with EF 400 and EF 70-200 f2.8 lens with aperture set wide open, manual exposure with auto ISO, typically AF case 4 normally single point AF with four point expansion) is the same that I use for soccer and football. “
——————
I also use M mode and ISO Auto. I also have the [Set] button configured for AEC and [AF-ON] programmed as [AF-OFF]. 👍🏻
That’s about it for custom controls. It’s simple. It’s available on all advanced bodies, so they feel and work the same way.
03-25-2026 02:03 PM - edited 03-25-2026 02:05 PM
Hi @bill1952 which EF 70-200mm lens do you own. We need the exact name. I have pictures below to help you identify your lens model. Canon has made multiple versions in the EF Mount. Older versions are NOT fully compatible with EOS R series cameras. This is due to the older hardware in them. Older lenses cannot achieve 12 fps or support more modern features like eye detect AF.
03-25-2026 02:58 PM
My lens is Canon 70 to 200 mm f 2.8 IS
This older adapted lens has no trouble eyeball focusing or shooting 12 or more frames per second. I borrowed a friend's brand new RF 70 to 200 mm f 2.8 lens to test it out on this camera and it had the same exact focusing issue. I have no control over who or what the camera is going to focus on!
03-25-2026 02:59 PM
The older lenses an L series lens
03-25-2026 03:13 PM
@bill1952 we need an exact name of the lenses you have. In the EF Mount alone Canon made 3 70-200mm F/2.8 IS lenses. So saying older “70-200mm” doesn’t mean anything. Other than it’s an EF lens but which one. Also there are 2 different RF 70-200mm F/2.8 lenses so we need a complete name. So which lenses listed did you use? Just saying “newer” 70-200mm F/2.8 doesn’t mean anything. We don’t know which exact model you were using.
03-25-2026 03:17 PM
03-25-2026 03:37 PM
In order to reproduce the problem that you’re having we need the exact lens model name. We could easily use the wrong lens not knowing why a problem is NOT reproducible. The 1st gen 70-200mm F/2.8 IS lens is NOT fast enough to keep up with 12 fps. It may not even be able to keep up with eye detect AF. Just because you can set such settings in the camera menu. Doesn’t mean the lens supports it. If the lens doesn’t support it. The camera will automatically throttle back the speed to match what the lens is capable of. Also what mount adapter are you using too. The Canon brand mount adapter or a 3rd Party mount adapter. I would also check the setting called “Preview AF/ Continuous AF”. Set this to DISABLE it’s not only a drain on the battery. But older EF lenses that provide focus override in AF. AF cannot be overridden if the camera is driving the AF motor. That particular setting causes the camera to constantly drive the AF motor. So focus override in AF mode is NOT POSSIBLE. You’ll feel internal pushback from the lens. If you attempt turning the focus ring when the camera is driving the AF motor. This is the lens’ clutch doing its job to prevent damage to the lens. All RF are focus by wire and don’t have this limitation like older EF lenses do. Can we have some example pictures too with metadata attached to them too. Preferably RAW (JPEG is fine too) files on Google Drive or any other file sharing service.
03-25-2026 03:59 PM
I think you are misunderstanding the problem here. It focuses on the eyes and can keep up with high speed Plus electronic shutter just fine. My problem is it keeps focusing on the wrong person! I'm not sure what you mean by the exact name of the lens where are you getting this information from?
03-25-2026 04:01 PM
BTW; the RF adapter is a Canon make.
03-25-2026 04:15 PM
@bill1952 wrote:
I shoot sports and am having issues with the camera focusing on the wrong people (about half the time. With tracking set, the focusing point does not appear to be working at all.)
For example, last night I was trying to get a lacrosse player in focus, but the camera kept focusing on the near subjects. Even though I had the focusing point CLEARLY on the player's face, the focus kept jumping to faces nearest the camera.
Here is how the AF is set: People, single-point, auto-eye detection. Back button focus, front button only releases shutter. My lens is an EF 70-200 f2.8 with an adaptor.
BTW: If I enable front focus, the focusing point is active and functioning correctly; however, I lose all tracking capability.
My main issue is, why can't I determine which subjects to focus on instead of the camera (which mostly gets it wrong).
Here are some thoughts:
1. with "front focus" I assume you mean factory setting for the shutter button. Do you have tracking turned on?
2. when you select back button focus you need to also press the INFO button and select the various options. You would want to configure it just like the shutter button settings.
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