Canon Rebel EOS T6 Shutter sticks up and red light stays on

[patastro]

Having an issue with my T6. When I go to take a photo and press the button, the shutter goes up, sticks and the red light in the bottom right corner stays light solid. It does not complete the photo.

I have to turn off the camera to get the shutter to close.

Any ideas what might be causing this issue?

Thanks,

Patrick

[RobertTheFat]

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@Mr_Fusion wrote:

 - Spraying canned air inside of a camera body is NOT a good idea, because it leaves residue behind. 

Compressed air does not contain any oils or other chemicals that would leave a residue. The most common gas used is the same gas used in air conditioners, HFC-134A, or else HFC-152A. Both have an extremely high boiling point and evaporate quickly.  I have never seen any residue left behind. Also, read the directions. 

I use Dust Off (TM) at work on many electronic devices. These include extremely sensitive load cells, scanners, and photocells. There has never been any residue left behind or any issue seen in this very dusty environment. 

If using canned air (or compressed air) scares you then a rocket or bulb blaster is an acceptable alternative.

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Liquids with an extremely high boiling point evaporate quickly? Did they change the laws of physics while I wasn't looking?

[Waddizzle]

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@Mr_Fusion wrote:

 - Spraying canned air inside of a camera body is NOT a good idea, because it leaves residue behind. 

Compressed air does not contain any oils or other chemicals that would leave a residue. The most common gas used is the same gas used in air conditioners, HFC-134A, or else HFC-152A. Both have an extremely high boiling point and evaporate quickly.  I have never seen any residue left behind. Also, read the directions. 

I use Dust Off (TM) at work on many electronic devices. These include extremely sensitive load cells, scanners, and photocells. There has never been any residue left behind or any issue seen in this very dusty environment. 

If using canned air (or compressed air) scares you then a rocket or bulb blaster is an acceptable alternative.

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Bad science.  You're looking entirely in the wrong direction, my friend.

In layman's terms, when the compressed air suddenly goes from a high pressure environment inside of the can, to a relatively low pressure environment outside of the can, the air loses energy as it loses pressure.  The lost energy manifests itself in the from of lost heat.

Gases under pressure heat up.  The Sun is a good example of it.  Gases that lose pressure lose heat.  The vacuum of space is a good example of it.  The compressed air loses pressure to the surrounding atmosphere, and freezes.  When it freezes, any airborne particulate matter freezes and clumps together, which tends to get swept up in the air moving from the can, and into the camera.

It does not matter what gas is involved.  Just because you cannot see anything with the naked eye is a rather naive argument. If a liquid has a very high boiling point, then it would not evaporate at room temperatures, and would remain a liquid.  A substance with a low boiling point, like most gases, evaporate at room temperatures.

The compressed air in the can evaporates, but all of the particulate matter that it accumulated and clumped together remains.

[Waddizzle]

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@patastro wrote:

I thought that too (more power to hold the mirror up). But I tried resetting to default setting. No help.

I use a power grip with the camera which has two batteries. So while I charged one, the other one was still in the camera. i.e. I could still turn on the camera.

But after charging the one battery, it worked fine. I hope that was all it was. And that it keeps working.

Thanks,

Patrick

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Try to keep both batteries in your grip at the same amount of charging.  Re-charge them both before re-installing the pair into the battery grip.  If you wish to use just one, then use just one.

But, when you use a pair, make sure the pair is equally charged, so that the current demand is closer to balanced between the batteries.