08-18-2015
10:26 AM
- last edited on
08-20-2024
10:01 AM
by
Danny
Hi guys
So after a few weeks of owning the 7DMKII, I realize that even when I manually focus my shots (I don't use a tripod and I do automotive photography), If I zoom in to the maximum in Lightroom, the photo is still dull (on the lowest ISO at 1/320 as I realize that 1/320 is when the photos are 'sharpest'). Is this because the lens that I'm using isn't calibrated to the camera (using a 17-55 2.8) or is it because I'm just shooting wrong? I've tried both manual focus and the different AF zones, all of them, when zoomed in on LR, are dull. Thanks!
08-19-2015 03:48 PM
I am going to repeat this ....
" Try a test shot or two with these settings, ISO 100, lens set to 35mm and f5.6. For this just shoot a large jpg and set the picture style to Standard. Try to find light that will keep the SS above 1/125 for this test. U/l the results here on the forum. Simply resize in LR (10in and 72 dpi) and use the picture tab."
What you are doing is telling you nothing! Do as I suggest and see if the camera/lens combo dose actually focus. I don't know why you are so insistant on using 1/320. There is nothing magical about that SS. Also when you do my simple test remove any and all filters. None, nada, zip-o no. We are not testing filters here just the camera/lens combo. You are not going to learn anything until you know the two work together.
08-19-2015 03:51 PM
"I outline the object with the drawing tool in Lightroom ..."
Drawing tool? In Lightroom? Are you sure you are using LR?
08-19-2015 04:25 PM
ok i'll try it tonight when I get home.
08-19-2015 04:25 PM
my bad XD I meant the adjustment brush
08-19-2015 05:35 PM - edited 02-24-2017 07:17 PM
@iphonemaster93 wrote:I believe $140? I have the B+W MRC coating CPL. The entire picture is in focus, just the object that I want to be sharp, doesn't have that 'popping out' look to it even when I have the single point AF on it when in auto focus and the same with manual if I'm not shooting anywhere close to 55mm (I shoot at all ranges).
You really need to get a book or take a class on basic photography concepts.
First there is only one plane of focus in a photograph. Then there is a depth of field which is an area of acceptable sharpness in front of and behind the plane of focus.
It sounds to me like you want a shallow depth of field, which is what makes your subject 'pop out'.
Instead you are using settings that give you too large of a depth of field so you have no subject isolation.
While focus does come into play, it is not the primary thing that creates the effect you are looking for. Shallow depth of field comes from a large aperture (small f/number) long lens focal length, short subject to camera distance, and larger distance between the subject and the background.
Until you understand how to control your depth of field you are wasting your time worrying about micro focus adjustment.
08-19-2015 06:41 PM - edited 08-19-2015 07:00 PM
which means I have to stand somewhat close to my subject, use a longer focal length and have the aperture at it's widest or on the wider side. (took both photos this past weekend)
I got lucky with this one. I believe I either had the focus on the front fender near the fog light or the rim itself. The only thing I clarified was the sky with the graduated filter. The below is the original.
08-19-2015 07:07 PM - edited 08-19-2015 07:09 PM
@iphonemaster93 wrote:which means I have to stand somewhat close to my subject, use a longer focal length and have the aperture at it's widest or on the wider side.
That is correct. You want enough depth of field so your subject is sharp, but, a shallow enough depth of field so nothing else is.
55mm and f/2.8 will give you the shallowest depth of field. But,it may be too shallow to have the whole car sharp. It becomes a balancing act. Initially you can take multiple shots bracketing your aperture between f/2.8 and f/4 until you learn what gives you the right amount of depth of field.
08-19-2015 07:12 PM
@TTMartin wrote:
@iphonemaster93 wrote:which means I have to stand somewhat close to my subject, use a longer focal length and have the aperture at it's widest or on the wider side.
That is correct. You want enough depth of field so your subject is sharp, but, a shallow enough depth of field so nothing else is.
55mm and f/2.8 will give you the shallowest depth of field. But,it may be too shallow to have the whole car sharp. It becomes a balancing act. Initially you can take multiple shots bracketing your aperture between f/2.8 and f/4 until you learn what gives you the right amount of depth of field.
This is a good video that shows how the different settings can impact the depth of field.
Digital Photography 1 on 1: Episode 12: Depth of Field: Adorama Photography TV
08-19-2015 08:54 PM
what is the picture tab and how do you change it to 10in at 72 dpi...? I only have ppi in Export Settings
08-20-2015 08:40 AM
One reason you may think your photo does not 'pop' is composition. The white car is distracting and tends to draw your eye away from the red subject car.
"what is the picture tab and how do you change it to 10in at 72 dpi...?"
The picture tab is the one on the post reply form. The resizing is in LR. ( 10in at 72dpi ppi )
02/20/2025: New firmware updates are available.
RF70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM Z - Version 1.0.6
RF24-105mm F2.8 L IS USM Z - Version 1.0.9
RF100-300mm F2.8 L IS USM - Version 1.0.8
RF50mm F1.4 L VCM - Version 1.0.2
RF24mm F1.4 L VCM - Version 1.0.3
01/27/2025: New firmware updates are available.
12/18/2024: New firmware updates are available.
EOS C300 Mark III - Version 1..0.9.1
EOS C500 Mark II - Version 1.1.3.1
12/05/2024: New firmware updates are available.
EOS R5 Mark II - Version 1.0.2
09/26/2024: New firmware updates are available.
Canon U.S.A Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited.