03-30-2026
05:18 PM
- last edited on
03-31-2026
09:37 AM
by
Danny
All,
Looking for suggestions/recommendations on taking pictures at youth soccer games. This past weekend my granddaughter had a game and took some pictures. I have an EOS R6M2 with a RF100-400mm lens F5.6-8 with a 1.4X extender. It was overcast. Mode was Manual, shutter speed 1000-1250, Auto ISO, AF Servo, AF area was 1 point AF, Metering mode was Evaluative, but the Subject to Detect was Animals. Got some good shots, but felt like some the pictures could have been sharper. The Aperture was at F stop 8 for most of the pictures. The highest ISO was 8000. Any recommendations that I could have done differently. My other option for a lens was the RF24-240. Thanks in advance.
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03-31-2026 09:00 PM
Reese, I am standing while taking most of these shots and I move around a lot in a typical soccer game.
I am really comfortable using my 1DX III bodies so the only mirrorless cameras I own are a pair of smaller Canon cameras purely for travel.
I use the 200-400 f4 for day games only, I like the extra stop from my 400 f2.8 for night use. And although the 200-400 focuses quickly, there is nothing that compares to the performance of a quality prime lens. The EF 400 f2.8 has saved me more than once in football in capturing interceptions and other fast unfolding changes in a play.
I keep the 70-200 f2.8 on one body and the EF 400 f2.8 on the other for most sports events. For soccer, the 70-200 comes into play when the action moves close to where I am on the sideline or when I am shooting close in action at the goal but most of the time the longer reach of the 400 is what I use.
And if you are close to the action, there will be times when even the 70-200 @ 70mm requires some creative framing to fit because players move in quickly. This football pass play was one of those cases! And it is a reason I don't use a monopod to support the lens because sometimes you have to make a fast move to avoid danger to the players and yourself. A few years ago, I was on a really poorly designed football field where there was a fence just a few feet off one sideline. The official and I had to do a synchronized jump over a couple of sliding players with both of us landing on the field because there was no place else to go to avoid the out of bounds end of the play.
Rodger
04-01-2026 05:40 PM
Tom,
Thank you very much your response. You gave me a lot of good ideas.
Reese
04-01-2026 05:47 PM
Rodger,
Thank you for your additional comments. You and Tom gave me a lot of great ideas and suggestions. I laughed at your comment about taking pictures at volleyball games. This weekend is Easter so there are no soccer games. I will get to use the suggestions the following week.
Reese
04-02-2026 12:41 PM
"Location is critical and most youth soccer facilities allow fans to get pretty close to the action..."
If you take nothing from the replies, that is the most important one. The second thing is, know the sport. If you don't know what is going on or what is going to happen next you are always in reaction mode. Bad position for a sports photographer to be in.
"Are you able to use a tripod in your circumstances?"
I would ignore that suggestion completely as well as the 1.4x tel-con. IMHO, I would also recommend you don't use M mode. Most of the time the camera is smarter than you think or even smarter than you are. As for the tel-con, If you position yourself in the optimal and correct position, 400mm should be all the FL you need.
If you use Auto ISO you can set limits but modern cameras can do quite well even in the very upper ISO ranges and sometimes any image is better than no image.
Now the very best thing you can do and matter of fact for anybody that wants the best photos is to get DPP4 from Canon. It is free so no excuse. Learn it, use it. And it goes without saying always, always, no I mean always, shoot raw. Did I mention to always shoot raw? The bottom line with post editing is if you don't post edit you really don't want the best photographs so why not just use your iPhone?
04-02-2026 08:13 PM
ebiggs1,
Thank you for your comments and suggestions. They are always very helpful and useful.
Reese
04-03-2026 04:10 AM
Try setting a larger focus array like the 5 or 6 point array and see if that is any better at keeping track of subjects. Trial various AI Servo tracking modes and settings for 'sticking' to the subject. There are plenty of really good sports videos out there and worth a look. Many are for the R3 but most settings are similar across the R5/6.
04-03-2026 08:53 PM
rusty007,
Thank you for your suggestions. I will give them a try.
Reese
04-04-2026 01:21 PM
"Try setting a larger focus array like the 5 or 6 point array ..."
I would be very careful and hesitant to do that especially for a new person. It is very easy it get focus on something you don't intend to. I would prefer you stick with One Shot and just the center focus point until you get more experience.
Again the main most important things to do is (1) know the sport and (2) get a good place to shoot from. Get (3) DPP4 and use it and of course (5) shoot raw. These five things are going to make the most difference and offer the best chance of success. BTW, they are listed in order of importance.
04-04-2026 01:29 PM - edited 04-04-2026 01:31 PM
Also dump M mode. Manual is for when nothing else works which is going to be very very seldom. My preference is Av and I use it probably 90% of the time doing sports.
Never forget the camera is smarter than you might think and it just may be smarter than you are. Lots of even advanced photographers overthink situations when it is not needed. So, make use of this technology and as you learn more and gain more experience use that technology which will make more sense and benefit you. Baby steps, my friend, even for us oldsters.
04-04-2026 10:30 PM
ebiggs1,
Thank you for your comment about the AV mode. When I had my Nikons I used the AV mode 100% of the time. Sorry for the slow response.
Reese
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