cancel
Showing results for 
Show  only  | Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

EOS R Can't see anything through viewfinder in bright sunlight

eapples
Contributor

Hello:

I have a Canon EOS R camera.  I use primarily a Canon EFS 18-135 lens.  Sometimes I'll use a Tamron AF 70-300 lens.

Whenever I'm in bright sunlight, not necessarily direct sunlight but bright daylight surroundings, I cannot see ANYTHING through the viewfinder or using the digital screen.  If I adjust the aperture setting, the best I'll get is a very dim image, barely visible.  If I move to a shady spot, then there's no problem -- the images are crystal clear.

Am I doing something wrong?  Is this a shortcoming of mirrorless cameras?  I tried researching this, and the articles relate to focusing on a subject that is in direct sunlight.  That is not my issue -- my issue is using the camera whenever it's sunny outside, and I'm not standing in a shady spot.

Please note:  I am a technology dinosaur -- my eyes glaze over whenever I try reading technojargon.

Thank you for your help.

28 REPLIES 28

I generally use aperture priority.  The adapter is Canon Control Ring Mount Adapter ES-EOS R.  As to the previous issues with focusing and setting camera settings, they were primarily due to user error -- I took care of those.  That's what got me thinking that maybe it's user error this time.

I did notice that if I tried shading the lens with my hand, a very dim view of the image appeared, barely perceptible. Once I removed my hand, complete darkness (viewfinder or digital screen).

My choice of lenses are based on cost.  I was not aware of the manner in which they limited the capability of the camera.  Truth be told -- I cannot afford to purchase lenses for a mirrorless camera, choosing the adapter as an alternative.

@eapples 

You can reply to all of us with a single reply.  We will all see it. 

Since you are unfamiliar with the modes and settings on your body, I suggest you download and review its user guide.

https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/3/0300032123/08/eosr-ug9-en.pdf

Automatic mode.. Scene Intelligent Auto.  See page 123

At this point I'm going to again recommend that you perform a reset on your body both Main and Custom functions.  

See pages 419 Main and 554 Custom, resets.  

This is recommended so we can ensure a known good starting point to provide assistance. 

~Rick
Bay Area - CA


~R5 C (1.1.2.1), ~R50v (1.1.1) ~RF Trinity, ~RF 100 Macro, ~RF 100~400, ~RF 100~500, ~RF 200-800 +RF 1.4x TC, BG-R10, 430EX III-RT ~DxO PhotoLab Elite ~DaVinci Resolve Studio ~ImageClass MF644Cdw/MF656Cdw ~Pixel 10 ~CarePaks Are Worth It

Spot on @shadowsports @eapples any number of settings could’ve been changed. Especially if this camera was a used camera. That was bought used from someone else. Any number of CF changes could’ve been made by the previous owner. Resetting the camera brings everything back to factory default. So we can further help based on the camera manual. Buttons can easily be remapped in software. Also CF can be changed especially with the control ring mount adapter.

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 40D & EOS 5D Mark IV
Lenses: EF Holy Trinity, EF 50mm F/1.8 STM, EF 70-210mm F/4 & EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

It's perfectly fine to use EF or EF-S lenses on your mirrorless body.  This is a great cost savings measure.  There is no requirement that you use RF lenses.

However, if you are going to use adapted lenses it would be better to use EF lenses which are intended for full frame since your camera is a full frame camera, not APS-C (EF-S).

Let us know the results after performing the resets recommended above, shooting in [A+] automatic mode, outdoors on a bright sunny day.  

~Rick
Bay Area - CA


~R5 C (1.1.2.1), ~R50v (1.1.1) ~RF Trinity, ~RF 100 Macro, ~RF 100~400, ~RF 100~500, ~RF 200-800 +RF 1.4x TC, BG-R10, 430EX III-RT ~DxO PhotoLab Elite ~DaVinci Resolve Studio ~ImageClass MF644Cdw/MF656Cdw ~Pixel 10 ~CarePaks Are Worth It

eapples,

Aperture is a small hole in your lens. If you turn it one way, you make the hole smaller. If you turn it the other way, you make the hole bigger.

Apertures are a little confSaying f/1.8 or f/susing, because the larger numbers are actually a smaller hole. They are expressed sort of like a fraction. If you have an aperture of f/16 or f/22, it's like saying, 1/16 or 1/22.

Smaller f numbers are actually a bigger hole. If you have an aperture of f/2 or f/3, it's like saying 1/2 or 1/3. Think of it like the amount of water in a glass. If you say you have a glass of water that is 1/2 full, that is going to mean that you have more water than if you had a glass that was 1/16 full.

Aperture works kind of like the pupils in a cat's eyes. In bright sunlight, his pupils will shrink way down so that he doesn't et blinded. In really dark situations, his pupils will dilate to let in as much light as possible.

If you set your aperture to a really high number like f/16, or f/22, you are shrinking that hole way down and letting in less and less light. If you set your aperture to f/2,  you are widening that hole and a whole bunch of light is going to come flooding in.

You say that you are shooting in aperture priority. I have a hunch (and this is just a guess on my part) that you are setting your aperture way high, resulting in a darker and darker screen.

Steve Thomas

 

My default aperture setting is f/8.

I'll be boldly going where I've never gone before -- doing a full reset is unchartered territory for me.  I will give it a shot, and report the results (or lack thereof <;-)).

Yes, it was given to me by someone else in the camera club.  I had to take it off the manual setting, and put it back on aperture priority, which is my default setting.  I responded to someone else in this forum that I will attempt a full reset.  Wish me luck.

Announcements