Canon Community

pahranagatman · ‎12-16-2013

On image tests my 400mm L 5.6 is performing significantly less sharp than my new 100-400mm lense. The only think I can think of that would have damaged the 400 was condensaton in the body from temperature changes. Shots are all tribod and cable triggered. No filters on either lens. This is of course cropped way in. Any ideas? The 400 is about 9 months old. Can it be cleaned internally?

7D, EFS 18-55 IS, 400mm L 5.6f, 100-400mm L

ebiggs1 · ‎12-16-2013

The top photo looks OOF so if it is there is no way to tell if the lens is "sharp" or not. Maybe you were too close?

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

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amfoto1 · ‎12-16-2013

It is possible the lens' focus is out of calibration. Focus mechanisms can wear with use or just get out of adjustment with a bump or even be mis-adjusted from new. This can be adjusted and corrected, worn or faulty parts can be replaced if needed.

IMO it's unlikely that the lens needs cleaning inside. Usually stuff inside a lens - even a lot - doesn't effect focus and sharpness very much... It causes flare, veiling, loss of contrast and reduced color saturation. If images showed uneven sharpness, that might indicate a decentered lens element or group, another problem that often can be corrected. But just judging from your sample images, there don't appear to be problems of those types. I doubt you'll find anything of significance, but you can inspect the inside of a lens with a flashlight. Just don't panic if you see some specks of dust here and there. Those are common and not a problem unless there's a lot... a whole lot!

You probably should just send the lens in and have it checked and calibrated.

However, there are other things you can look for first, to rule out as possibilites...

1. As already suggested, that lens' closest focusing distance is about 3.5 meters (11.5 feet). If closer than that, you won't be able to focus So, yes, be sure you simply aren't trying to focus too close. (Notes: For comparison, your 100-400mm's closest focusing distance is 1.8 meters/5.9 feet. Also, adding a macro extension tube will allow the lens to focus closer).

2. Do you have a filter on the lens? If so, try without it. Quality filters can be helpful in some situations, but cheaper ones can make a mess of images and some lenses simply don't work well with the filters (actually your 100-400mm is one that is pretty widely known to not work well with filters... even good ones).

3. You mention using a tripod and remote release, and those are good for tests like these. Are you also locking up the mirror? At certain longer shutter speeds (usually between roughly 1/30 and 1 second) mirror slap can sometimes cause enough vibration to give some camera shake blur in images. The 100-400's Image Stabilization should be able to correct for that. But the 400/5.6L doesn't have IS, so would be more prone to show any vibration effects. When using really long telephotos without IS, at times I've put a beanbag on top of the camera and lens to help prevent vibrations, too.

You didn't mention what camera you are using, but an APS-C 1.6X crop model is more susceptible to camera shake, than a full frame model would be. On the other hand, the larger mirrors in full frame models are more likely to give mirror slap effects (all have some dampening, I'm sure.... but it likely varies with different models) .

Also, Canon has published a white paper about the 18MP APS-C cameras being particularly susceptible to any form of vibration... They recommend using slightly higher shutter speeds to offset this, especially with the crop cameras with very dense sensors.

4. Hopefully you are using One Shot focus for those test shots. Be sure to restrict to only the center AF point. And If your camera has it, try using Live View. That employs a completely different method of focusing and is a good way to test the camera and lens.

5. Use a clean rag lightly dampened with a few drops of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to clean the electronic contacts on the back of the lens. Perhaps some oils or dirt on the contacts are interrupting communication between the camera and lens, effecting focus.

Those are things you can try yourself at no cost. Since the lens is less than a year old, it should still be under warranty, so I wouldn't hesitate to send it in to Canon for calibration, if none of the above helps.

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

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pahranagatman · ‎02-07-2014

yoramp,

*Just want to check that you're not making the stupid mistake I did that started this thread. Are you far enough away from the subject? Need to set the focus length different maybe?

*Are you sure it's the lens and not the camera? Is there an opportunity to test similar lenses and bodies? I had a 60D that started doing weird things like that. Pictures looked OK with 55mm lense, but not 75-300mm. I don't know if it was a small drop in a padded bag, the 300mm lens I had, or Nevada heat that messed it up. Insurance people just said there were no parts and sent me money. I've read reports of the 60D doing weird focusing problems which is sad because I loved the flip screan.

Good luck.

7D, EFS 18-55 IS, 400mm L 5.6f, 100-400mm L

yoramp · ‎02-08-2014

Hi, Thanks a lot for this information. Ahm.. yep, I'm not sure at all who or what is the cause of that ugly blur. I guess I'll better check them both. To say the truth, I'm right now in the mood of replacing my whole geer to Nikon system and try to get to the D800. I'm not so happy with replacing my 60D I liked it very much. but if she/it is the problem I''ll nock it out. When I look to the 7D or the 6D it dosen't look worth the efforts - what do you think?

Yoram

ebiggs1 · ‎02-08-2014

"... I look to the 7D or the 6D it dosen't look worth the efforts - what do you think?"

Only you can decide if the difference is worth it. But no xxD is comparable to a xD, IMHO, as always.

Look at what the "pros" choose. This is the photographers pit at the last Super Bowl. 75% of the equipment is Canon. The remaining is not only Nikon but everything else. Now you decide!

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

yoramp · ‎02-11-2014

WOW, great picture! I guess you're right, you can see that a lot. That is convincing.. even though you can never know if it is great P.R. work or really quality differences. I used to work a lot with the D70 - it wasen'l too friendly to say the least, but very good in quality image.

amfoto1 · ‎05-27-2015

@yoramp wrote:
Hello guys, thanks a lot for your responds. I use a very steady 055 Manfrotto tripod with a 3D head. I'm a very experienced photographer - I nearly certain it is not my mal technique usage. I also used very high speed shutter so if it was a movement it shuld have been eliminated or unseen. I'm quit sure there is some calibration needed. I never had such a broblem before. I guess I'll have to send it to the Canon lab to find out..
Here is another picture with a stedy subject, same tripod, 2500 shutter speed.As you can see it is cropped to 100% enlargement. You can clesrly see this annoying dubble image.
Thanks again for your try to help.

Looks a lot like camera shake to me. Are you sure it was 1/2500 shutter speed?

Your posted images must have been "saved for the web"... all the EXIF data is stripped off them. If it were there, we could look at it and check things like this ourselves.

***********

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

nerys · ‎05-24-2015

I just got a 100-400 L for my 5d mark ii

My p&s takes sharper images (little z200 casio) quite upset as the $900 i spent is a literal fortune to me.

How do i do this micro adjustment thing? Is there a good url for how to use this camera also stuck in d+ so cant go below iso 200.

Thanks!

ebiggs1 · ‎05-24-2015

Reset the camera to factory defaults. Remove all the batteries for a while, overnight is good. There are two!

The EF 100-400mm zoom is not the sharpest lens made but it is certainly better than any P&S! From your post I would very much advise you not do any micro-adjust, at least not until you are more advanced.

Most of the problems when people complain about a camera/lens combo, is the user and not the gear. So much greater info would be required to assess which that is for you.

Can you post a sample or at least give some details on how and what you are shooting? Plus the settings you are using?

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

amfoto1 · ‎05-27-2015

@nerys wrote:
I just got a 100-400 L for my 5d mark ii

My p&s takes sharper images (little z200 casio) quite upset as the $900 i spent is a literal fortune to me.

How do i do this micro adjustment thing? Is there a good url for how to use this camera also stuck in d+ so cant go below iso 200.

Thanks!

Do you have a "protection" filter on the 100-400mm?

If so, try it again without it. I've heard many complain of their 100-400mm's sharpness... and the only problem was the filter they had on it. This particular lens doesn't "play well" with filters, for some reason.

Also, I would never turn off the IS when shooting with this lens handheld. I've always struggled to get steady shots with push/pull type zooms, but I hardly ever turn off IS on any lens (and I've shot with some of them for going on 15 years now).

***********

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

nerys · ‎05-24-2015

i was just shooting a car maybe 30 meters away and the image was abysmal i could even see in the viewfinder it was "not right"

I found the coinc cell backup removed it. D+ was still their but some googling and i found the serting to turn that off.

Inside i took some shots switching between my old l 100-300 and the new l 100-400

Seems to shoot much better now. Double batt reset may have done it. I will leave both out tonight again to be sure and set up some real testing later this week time allowing.

I will post some samples later too. At work just now.

For some of what i shoot naramlive.com and rocketrylive.com though all of those are with my xti's and casio f1

nerys · ‎05-24-2015

Playing with it on break still can not get clean shots. i noticed up close i get half clear half blurry (shot a power neter maybe 2 meters away) half of it is crystal clear. Half blury. Could the dof even at 5.6 be that thin? I cranked it up to 22 and it was all crystal clear. So either the af is slightly off or the dof of that thin ? Does that seem right to you guys? Will post some pics when i get home.

I am astonished at how nosie free images from this camera are even at iso 3200. Amazing.

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Problem with 400mm L 5.6 clarity