Problem with 400mm L 5.6 clarity

[pahranagatman]

On image tests my 400mm L 5.6 is performing significantly less sharp than my new 100-400mm lense. The only think I can think of that would have damaged the 400 was condensaton in the body from temperature changes. Shots are all tribod and cable triggered. No filters on either lens. This is of course cropped way in. Any ideas? The 400 is about 9 months old. Can it be cleaned internally?

[ebiggs1]

You know there is supposed to be a 400mm f5.6 IS coming in 2014.

[Harv]

Keep this in mind..... when it comes to filters, you get what you pay for.  A cheap, poor quality filter will degrade your image noticeably.  A high quality filter will not.  If you are prepared to spend the money to purchase a high quality B+W or Hoya Pro1 filter, you should not see any image quality loss.

[Harv]

One more thing.  A 1.4xTC used on your 400/5.6 will not allow it to autofocus on the 7D.  That will only work on the 1-Series cameras or the 5D3 as it turns your lens into f/8 and your 7D will only autofocus with f/5.6 or larger apertures.

[pahranagatman]

Using Hoya NXT when I'm walking around in the sand blaster known as Nevada. Leaving the Hoya Alpha in the junk bin. Not going to bother with 1.4x.

Looking at replaceing the 400mm with a 500mm L non-IS with autofocus. Any down sides to this? My guess is that auto focus and lens glass tech hasn't changed much in a long time. So even if its an older lens, it should be OK. I'll post this as a new thread. This tread has gotten off subject.

[diverhank]

@OP, you mentioned your concern for the lack of IS on the 400 f/5.6L for walking around...If I may offer one tip...shoot at 1/1000 or faster to get razor sharp images.  The aperture will park at 5.6 almost all the time but that's OK because this lens is sharp wide open. 99% of my shots are hand-held with incredible results (for me anyways)

Another tip I'd like to offer is to reduce the MFD (min focus distance), use an extension tube.  I use a Canon 25mm tube to cut the MFD down to 6 feet which is perfect for taking pictures of hummingbirds

[yoramp]

Hi,

I'm also having blur problems, I just bought the lens and found out this awful blur - looks as a double image shadow. Does anyone know if it's the Canon 60D camera or the lens 400 5.6 lens problem?

I used a steady tripod and high speed shutter.

Thanks    

[ebiggs1]

"I used a steady tripod and high speed shutter."

What tripod?  And what shutter speed?

BTW, a "steady tripod does not mean you can't jiggle the camera when you trip the shutter.

Your photos could be OOF, movement or extreme enlargement. So way more info from you is needed.

[diverhank]

I agree with ebiggs1...There is a possibility there is something wrong with the lens but then it might be user technique too. When I first got the 400mm f/5.6L my pictures used to look like yours too (well maybe not quite as bad, but close). It's not easy to use a 400mm.

I used to have a $50 tripod I thought was sturdy and even on this tripod, my pictures are just as blurry at lower shutter speeds. I now own a tripod that costs 8 times that much...and when I shoot handheld, never below 1/1000 and always with controlled breathing and the weaver shooting stance...My pictures went from blurry messes initially to razor sharp images this lens is capable of producing.

[ebiggs1]

Very well said!  

[yoramp]

Hello guys, thanks a lot for your responds. I use a very steady 055 Manfrotto tripod with a 3D head. I'm a very experienced photographer - I nearly certain it is not my mal technique usage. I also used very high speed shutter so if it was a movement it shuld have been eliminated or unseen. I'm quit sure there is some calibration needed. I never had such a broblem before. I guess I'll have to send it to the Canon lab to find out..

Here is another picture with a stedy subject, same tripod, 2500 shutter speed.As you can see it is cropped to 100% enlargement. You can clesrly see this annoying dubble image.

Thanks again for your try to help.