04-14-2018 09:38 PM
Hi,
First, I’ve been getting really good results at 896mm using a Canon 80D, Canon 100-400mm, and the Canon 1.4x Extender III.
Even handheld with shutter 2000, f/10 for field of view, and auto ISO.
Love having up to 27 AF points at f/8 for BIF.
Use a monopod when I can, to address the weight issue.
Feels like Canon tuned this combination for performance and image sharpness.
When I use the Canon 400mm F5.6 with the Canon 80D and the 1.4x Extender III the results are surprisingly not as good.
With only the single center AF point at f/8 the images are soft at 896mm.
Feels like the AF misses a lot of shots even when compared to using a single AF point with the Canon 100-400mm II.
Its like the Canon 400mm F5.6 lens doesn’t work as well with the 1,4x Extender.
By itself the Canon 400mm F5.6 AF is quick and sharp.
When I add a 1.4x Extender, not as quick or sharp.
The Canon 100-400mm works so well with the 1,4x Extender on the Canon 80D, that I rarely take it off.
Its that good.
Solved! Go to Solution.
04-16-2018 12:31 PM
I agree. Had very good luck with the 400mm F5.6. The thing is, everything in Wildlife photography is far away.
The 400mm F5.6 is good at middle distance, but beyond that crops at 100% start breaking down.
The 896mm combination gives just that more reach. And when 896mm is too much, pulling back on the zoom is really nice.
Especially when images are sharp across the whole range.
I think the image stabilization is also a plus when shooting at 896mm on the Canon 100-400mm.
I like shooting at a shutter speed of 2000 at f/10 for field of view sharpness.
In low light I can drop down to a shutter of 800, and then shoot at f/8, with good images at ISO 2000-5000.
Extremely flexible.
04-16-2018 02:50 PM
"The thing is, everything in Wildlife photography is far away."
Exactly, that is why it is a difficult challenge to do. However, the answer is not more FL in this case. Especially nearly 900mm.
900mm is never going to be easy and you are going to have less than the best shots. The distance has become your enemy. The atmosphere is a problem. You need to spend more effort on getting closer.
This shot was about 30 yards which is way farther away than I like to shoot. I had to crop it farther than I like also.
I know it is duffucult to get close to some wildlife and some you don't even want to be too close. But it is the best solution if you want the best results. 900mm of FL is not the best answer.
04-16-2018 04:36 PM
Well, here’s some quick shots at 896mm.
Where you just can’t get any closer:
04-16-2018 04:52 PM
Still more at 896mm
04-16-2018 04:53 PM
With birds, the best approach, if you have the patience, is to try to befriend them. Once they get the idea that you always have a treat available, they'll let you get as close as you need to. (A related proverb is that a National Park animal never turns down a free meal.) A few years ago there was a guy on another forum who routinely got fantastic pictures of hummingbirds. He did it by setting up a feeder that dispensed some sort of flavored sugar water that he knew they liked. Most people rarely see a hummingbird outside of a zoo. He had to practically swat them away.
When our kids were small, they liked to feed the wild ducks that frequented a pond in back of our house. I remember one day when they didn't get out there soon enough, and that year's duck family came up and started banging on the back door to get their attention.
04-16-2018 05:32 PM
Your shots are really nice. They are as good as you can likely expect. The only way I see to get better IQ is to use less FL and get closer. However, you say that is impossible. With the increased distance you start fighting the air it self. Besides the resolution of any lens goes down as distance to subject increases. I know everybody wants to improve and get forever better but in your case I think closing the distance is all that is left. You are doing fine using what you have and the situation presented to you.
Like Robert suggested, tempting the animals with treats or perhaps camo clothing or a blind, etc. That is what is left.
04-16-2018 06:27 PM
Thanks!
My original concern was how my Canon 400mm F5.6 seemed to struggle when adding a 1.4x Extender.
So much so in image softness and missed out of focus shots, that I rarely used the 1.4x Extender.
Really felt like the single AF point at f/8 was struggling.
Watching some YouTube video on the Canon 80D, and it’s new support of 27 AF points using a Canon 1.4x Extender III,
had me buying a refurbished Canon 80D and a refurbished Canon 100-400mm II from Canon USA.
The AF tracking was fast and almost all my shots were in focus and sharp, on the Canon 80D.
Some get excited about the Canon 7D Mark II 10 frames a second.
But if 6 out of 10 are not in focus or sharp, 10 frames doesn’t buy you very much.
Many look at Sigma or Tamron 150-600mm to get that extra reach.
I hear from those who have those lenses, they all struggle at the high end.
The Canon 100-400mm II with the Canon 1.4x Extender III on a Canon 80D is a great alternative.
04-17-2018 06:25 AM
@JosephKarpinskiwrote:Thanks!
My original concern was how my Canon 400mm F5.6 seemed to struggle when adding a 1.4x Extender.
So much so in image softness and missed out of focus shots, that I rarely used the 1.4x Extender.
Really felt like the single AF point at f/8 was struggling.
Watching some YouTube video on the Canon 80D, and it’s new support of 27 AF points using a Canon 1.4x Extender III,
had me buying a refurbished Canon 80D and a refurbished Canon 100-400mm II from Canon USA.
The AF tracking was fast and almost all my shots were in focus and sharp, on the Canon 80D.
Some get excited about the Canon 7D Mark II 10 frames a second.
But if 6 out of 10 are not in focus or sharp, 10 frames doesn’t buy you very much.
Many look at Sigma or Tamron 150-600mm to get that extra reach.
I hear from those who have those lenses, they all struggle at the high end.
The Canon 100-400mm II with the Canon 1.4x Extender III on a Canon 80D is a great alternative.
The AF system in the 80D is at least the equal o the 7D2. It is next level better, IMHO.
04-17-2018 07:58 AM
Audubon’s Guide to Ethical Bird Photography
Respect for birds and their habitats must come before getting that perfect shot. Here's how to be a responsible bird photographer.
The first essential element in bird photography is a sincere respect for the birds and their environment. In any conflict of interest, the well-being of the birds and their habitats must come before the ambitions of the photographer. Here are some basic guidelines.
Avoid causing unnecessary disturbance or stress to birds.
Use a telephoto lens or a blind for close-up shots. If your approach causes a bird to flush (fly or run away) or change its behavior, you’re too close.
Some birds may “freeze” in place rather than flying away, or may hunch into a protective, aggressive, or pre-flight stance. Watch for changes in posture indicating that the birds are stressed, and if you see these, back away.
Never advance on a bird with the intention of making it fly.
Use flash sparingly (if at all), as a supplement to natural light. Avoid the use of flash on nocturnal birds at night, as it may temporarily limit their ability to hunt for food.
Before sharing locations of specific birds with other photographers or birders, think carefully about potential impacts to the birds or their habitats.
Concern for birds’ habitat is also essential. Be aware of your surroundings. Avoid trampling sensitive vegetation or disturbing other wildlife.
Nesting birds are particularly vulnerable and need special consideration
Keep a respectful distance from the nest. If you’re using a macro lens or including the nest as a focal point in an image with a wide-angle lens, even if you’re operating the camera remotely, you’re probably too close. Telephoto lenses of at least 500mm are recommended.
Avoid flushing the adults, scaring the young, or doing anything to draw the attention of predators to the nest. For example, repeatedly walking to a nest can leave both a foot trail and scent trail for predators.
Do not move or remove anything around the nest, as it may be providing both essential camouflage and protection from the elements.
Never use drones to photograph nests, as they can cause injury and stress to the nestlings and parents.
Luring birds closer for photography is often possible but should be done in a responsible way.
Birdfeeding stations, whether or not they’re used for photography, should be kept clean, stocked only with appropriate food items, and positioned with the birds’ safety in mind.
Never lure hawks or owls with live bait, or with decoys such as artificial or dead mice. Baiting can change the behavior of these predatory birds in ways that are harmful for them.
Playback of bird voices to lure them close for photography should be used sparingly, and not at all in the case of endangered birds, or birds at critical points in their nesting cycle.
Show respect for private and public property and consideration for other people.
Enter private land only with permission. On public property such as parks and refuges, be aware of local regulations, hours, and closed areas.
In group situations be considerate of other photographers and birders who may be watching the same bird. Remember that your desire to photograph the bird doesn’t outweigh the rights of others to observe it. Remember also that large groups of people are potentially more disturbing to birds, so it may be necessary to keep a greater distance.
07-26-2024 09:08 PM
Reading this years later looking for tele-converter opinions and saw your "use left 'FL'"... what is "FL"??
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