I'm using this photo in Raw and jpeg as a "guinea pig" to learn DPP4 and PSE 2021. I have played with DPP and PSE Quick to get a decent photo. I want to soften the glare on the rhododenron leaves in the background. Your suggestions are most welcome. Adding- had to reduce it to fit.
Johnr, will pull up RAW photo and go from there. Thanks for your post. Rain for the next few days preventing me to get out for more photos.
I agree that circular polarizing filter is the best solution, but I do not always carry one. DPP can sometimes make a good enough image from one that is not perfect.
Thanks to all for your help. I'll be taking a bunch of photos this weekend for a magazine article. Photos will be outdoors and indoors.
From shooting a lot of photos in the Smoky mountains and looking at that image, I am pretty confident that the highlights for the water AND leaves are "blown". This occurs when parts of the image are severely overexposed and the illumination of the sensor in these areas is far beyond that which creates the maximum output the sensor is designed to deliver to the A to D converter so that part is "clipped" and the only data for level and color is the maximum the sensor can provide and not what was truly in the scene.
I love the Smoky Mountains and my daughter were there camping and hiking last week but many of the images push the dynamic range capabilities of any camera. Part of the beauty of the Smoky Mountains is the gloominess of the forest but the bits of sunlight that come through create clipping issues and if you try to make the scene brighter than it is in real life then the problem grows worse.
A polarizing filter can help but when possible in an extreme dynamic range situation, you need to take the time to observe the highlight and shadow warnings from the camera and decide what mix of blown highlights and/or noisy shadows are the best compromise and generally I go for more noise in the shadows instead of clipping the highlights IF there is important detail data needed from the highlights.
Once you get into post, if the original image is close enough to OK then you may be able to do enough work with the sliders in DPP. With excessive highlights, you will probably need to drop the overall brightness slider and then fine tune further with the highlight and shadow sliders which allow you to somewhat compensate for a scene dynamic range which exceeds the capability of photography gear. I have found that the range of compensation with the highlight slider is pretty minimal and you may have to drop the overall brightness most of a full stop to get within a usable range.
I try to take the time to meter properly to come up with a good original capture but sometimes that isn't possible. For our hike to Mt. Cammerer last Tuesday, weather was a factor and I wanted to get to the summit before the clouds rolled in. It is a 12 mile round trip with over 3,000 feet of elevation gain and I was carrying my 1DX III with EF 24-70, 70-200, and 100 f2.8 lenses which dropped trail speed so I didn't want to make any long stops on the way up. I did some quick spot metering for the attached happy little stream image, shot it, continued on my way, and adjusted -2/3 stop brightness, +3 clarity, +3 shadow, and -3 highlight in post. I just liked the feel of that little stream that appears in a brief near level spot on the way to the AT so it isn't worth a lot of time but I may clean it up further in Photoshop later if I get bored and have time. DPP has an area adjust tool but if you really need to do an area adjust, then you need the much greater capabilities of PS.
Rodger, the park is one of our favorite places. My complements on the photo. High mileage has pretty much eliminated long hikes. I have made contact with the local Trout Unlimited chapter who assists the park with their fisheries work. Looking for lots of photos plus some fishing there.
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