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Danny
Why doesn't the shutter speed in Canon R8 camera go higher than 200? Even though I set it to high speed in the camera settings and also synced it with the trigger and flash, I tried with the 6d ii camera and it worked, but it doesn't go up on the r8, my flash nicefoto 680c, trigger tx_c01
👋 hey, I don't know why Canon trainers do not say that clearly. Although it's mentioned in the R8 manual as per the following link.
The Canon R8 at the opposite of the R6 or R5 whether you are looking at the mark 1 or mark 2, The R8 has a specific and physical difference: it has only an electronic shutter, and then a "partial curtain shutter".
Basically to save money, and also to not cannibalise the market of the R6, Canon has not implemented a full mechanical shutter.
The direct consequence of this: The maximum shutter speed achievable with that partial mechanical shutter, is maximum 1/200th of a second. As opposed to e.g. 1/8000th or the R6. Or many cameras even the Old timer 6D DSLR, has a full fledged mechanical shutter.
So as a consequence: you will not be able to use a flash at faster speeds than 1/200th. And the reason is that the electronic shutter does not synchronise well with the flash at high speeds, when in HSS mode.
The reason for this is that the electronic shutter actuation, is not quite as a create e.g. sub 100th of a sec order, as opposed to mechanical shutters actuation and sync being accurate down to really fast speeds.
So yes mechanical shutters are expensive to develop. Expensive to build, expensive to achieve high speed synchronisation with the flash. Etc. You get the idea...
Now it's easy to bypass that limitation, get similar results as HSS, typically overwhelming the ambient e.g. sunlight using the flash and typically achieve a darker background.
This is ABC of outdoors flash photography: using an ND filter to reduce the luminosity. This is another thing that I do not understand why official canon trainers as above do not even mention that? Really. I think I should apply for a job as a canon trainer I would do well...
1) buy an ND filter, fit it on your lens, or buy an EF adapter that allows inserting filter in between the lens and the sensor. The advantage here is that the filter will be used for all of your EF lenses. It will save you a ton of money and it's very handy as it's very close to the lens. E.g. filters can be interchanged and when using a circular polarising filter you can turn it very easily as it's close to the camera and not at the end of the lens but this is another topic...
2) most ND filters are also adjustable by spinning them around, So adjust the level of darkness, and then calibrate your flash power output, in your exposure settings, in order to achieve a dark background or else enable you to use your lens at full aperture in order to isolate your subject from the background when doing a portrait. You get the idea...
3) you will figure out that you no longer need to go above 200th of a second. And if you are a professional sport photographer and need a super fast flash synchronisation speed then just buy an R6 or the much cheaper 5D Mark 4. Those cameras will be great for fast action. Still cheaper way cheaper then a brand new R5 or R6.
So yes now you get the picture why the Canon R8 is called by many an amateur camera or semi pro: because it does not have a phone mechanical shutter, and because it has a single memory card slot, and because it does not have inbody stabilisation.
You get what you pay for however the R8, compared to the competition is so cheap and offer such good value for money, that personally I really don't care I prefer to invest the extra $2,000 necessary to get an R6 into a very good lens instead. In my opinion this is much better spent money when you are limited and like a professional which has a much bigger budget because it's the full-time work tool.
LAST BUT NOT LEAST
This one is really again such a shame that canon trainers on this forum cannot answer: there is a way to bypass the maximum limit of 200th of a second in the flash menu of the Canon R8:
https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/s/article/ART182354#Shooting-1_0180_5
you will be able to set your flash at a faster speed, if using an HSS speedlight and a HSS capable trigger like the Godox ones, however you have no guarantee that the synchronisation with your shutter will be perfect: This means that you might take a few shots in a row and the flash output won't be right. Just because the flash will fire slightly before or after. But I guess it can be a compromise especially if you're not doing professional photos or you have the opportunity to shoot many times to get one GOOD shot.
Here we go full circle, just go and try that maybe it will make you happy. Again if you are not doing spot photography just buy an ND filter is cheap enough and enable you to get the result that you want in terms of darkening the landscape or isolating your subject from the background using your maximum aperture on your lens that has cost you so much because it's a 2.8 or 1.4 lens and you really want to use that wide aperture, now that you've paid for it!
Kind regards good luck
Romain Sacchettini, amateur or semi pro photographer from France based in New Zealand. @rsacchettiniphoto facebook.com/rsphotoskye
