This is how you react when you are a senior on senior night and your team was losing 0-12 at halftime but then moves the ball 76 yards with 1 minute 7 seconds left on the clock and no timeouts left to score the winning touchdown over what was the #10 ranked team in your size class just as the clock runs out.
Shot with Canon 1DX III and EF 400 f2.8 @ f2.8, 1/800, ISO 16,000.
Thanks Florida Drafter and Tintype. That was the most fun HS game I have ever attended and I have been to quite a few.
It is a great group of kids and their enthusiasm is contagious. It makes photography much more fun to have such a great group of subjects.
And now I will have an opportunity to further embarrass my daughter. Her journalism teacher came up to me at halftime and asked if I would come in and talk with the students about sports photography. It should be fun and if I am really mean I will use one of the photos I took of Anna when I first started coaching her soccer team when she was 5. I coached and did some photography simultaneously and I have improved a lot since then. One of those early photos will make the kids on yearbook staff feel better about their own sports photography accomplishments!
Thanks for sharing the camera settings. I find them most helpful when pondering a photo and what settings I need.
You are welcome Tintype!
I always check prior photos from a venue to look at the EXIF data and results to see whether I want to make a change in setup for the next time. It is nice to have a good idea of what combination of gear and settings that work well for a particular place and time.
For football I generally use all three of my 1DX series bodies. The 1DX III will have the EF 400 f2.8 and for well illuminated fields I use a 70-200 f2.8 on the 1DX II and a 24-70 f2.8 on the 1DX. This provides a versatile and easy to use setup with pretty much every focal length I need. But for dark fields, the 1DX II gets a 200 f2 prime with a 85 f1.8 or 50 f1.4 prime on the 1DX. I really miss my 70-200 on those occasions but the tradeoff in noise/clarity and improved focus speed is worth it. I found this fast prime lens set provides better results for me than dropping shutter speed to partially compensate but everyone has their own preferences and practices so what I do probably wouldn't work well for others.
I also don't care for back button focus because I find it awkward when sometimes I use all three camera bodies during a single play and I don't need any complications. There are times I want to lock focus and for those I have the back AF button programmed as AF stop instead. The big white primes have convenient focus stop buttons around the body of the lens and those are my favorite but I can use the camera button to stop AF when using the 70-200 or the non-tele primes.