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loss of sharpness 100-400 using R5 and adapter

bobbieturner1
Contributor

I have been noticing my bird shots are not as sharp as they use to be using the Control ring mount adapter EF_EOS R for the 100-400L vii lens. I decided to do a test comparison between the R5 and the 5Dm4. I kept all settings the same on both cameras. When I manual focused I used the LCD magnifier to be exact. At first I thought it may be the lens. But comparing between both cameras, I definitely see I get sharper photos with my 5D! Are we losing something when we put the adapter on? see the photos below. Is it the adapter? communication? Auto focus compare-1.jpgAuto focus compare-1.jpg

36 REPLIES 36

One other weird thing I'm noticing is that some images look like they have motion blur, even at high shutter speeds like 1/320. And this is when working with a model in a portrait session. She was moving a fair amount, but I have no idea how I could have motion blur at 1/320 with her. I wonder if there is some incompatibility with those non-Canon lenses and the IBIS on the R5. I'll have to do some testing with it turned off. The downside to that is that on the R5, it is controlled by the IS switch on the lens, so that means I either get lens IS plus IBIS, or no IS at all.


@johninbigd wrote:
One other weird thing I'm noticing is that some images look like they have motion blur, even at high shutter speeds like 1/320. And this is when working with a model in a portrait session. She was moving a fair amount, but I have no idea how I could have motion blur at 1/320 with her. I wonder if there is some incompatibility with those non-Canon lenses and the IBIS on the R5. I'll have to do some testing with it turned off. The downside to that is that on the R5, it is controlled by the IS switch on the lens, so that means I either get lens IS plus IBIS, or no IS at all.

Sorry, but 1/320 is not generally regarded as a "high shutter speed".  "High shutter speed"s are generally upwards of 1/1000 for full frame cameras, and 1/1600 for APS-C cameras.

 

[EDIT]. Professional models learn how to move, and freeze in a pose for the photographer.  

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."


@Waddizzle wrote:

@johninbigd wrote:
One other weird thing I'm noticing is that some images look like they have motion blur, even at high shutter speeds like 1/320. And this is when working with a model in a portrait session. She was moving a fair amount, but I have no idea how I could have motion blur at 1/320 with her. I wonder if there is some incompatibility with those non-Canon lenses and the IBIS on the R5. I'll have to do some testing with it turned off. The downside to that is that on the R5, it is controlled by the IS switch on the lens, so that means I either get lens IS plus IBIS, or no IS at all.

Sorry, but 1/320 is not generally regarded as a "high shutter speed".  "High shutter speed"s are generally upwards of 1/1000 for full frame cameras, and 1/1600 for APS-C cameras.

 

[EDIT]. Professional models learn how to move, and freeze in a pose for the photographer.  


You don't think 1/320 is fast on a 50mm lens for a portrait? I've never noticed this sort of blur shooting that fast in a portrait session. I've never heard of anyone shooting at 1/1000 or over in a portrait session. Is that common?

Unless your model is shivering from the cold, I wouldn't expect 1/320 to be too slow for the typical portrait shot with a 50mm lens.  I sometimes drop to 1/640 for high school sports in poor lighting and that freezes most football player motion.

 

I don't use my 5DS and 5DS R bodies for sports but I have noticed with these 50 MP bodies that it does appear to take a little faster shutter speed than typical for some situations.  It seems that highly pixel dense sensors will exacerbate any motion blur.  But 1/320 should be enough for portraits except under unusual conditions.

 

Put your camera on a tripod and shoot an inanimate object at 1/320 and that will show whether it is motion blur or something else causing the issue.

 

Rodger

EOS 1DX M3, 1DX M2, 1DX, 5DS R, M6 Mark II, 1D M2, EOS 650 (film), many lenses, XF400 video


@johninbigd wrote:

@Waddizzle wrote:

@johninbigd wrote:
One other weird thing I'm noticing is that some images look like they have motion blur, even at high shutter speeds like 1/320. And this is when working with a model in a portrait session. She was moving a fair amount, but I have no idea how I could have motion blur at 1/320 with her. I wonder if there is some incompatibility with those non-Canon lenses and the IBIS on the R5. I'll have to do some testing with it turned off. The downside to that is that on the R5, it is controlled by the IS switch on the lens, so that means I either get lens IS plus IBIS, or no IS at all.

Sorry, but 1/320 is not generally regarded as a "high shutter speed".  "High shutter speed"s are generally upwards of 1/1000 for full frame cameras, and 1/1600 for APS-C cameras.

 

[EDIT]. Professional models learn how to move, and freeze in a pose for the photographer.  


You don't think 1/320 is fast on a 50mm lens for a portrait? I've never noticed this sort of blur shooting that fast in a portrait session. I've never heard of anyone shooting at 1/1000 or over in a portrait session. Is that common?


A 1/320 shutter speed is more than good enough for camera shake with a 50mm lens.  But, if you "she was moving a fair amount", then it sounds like you need a much faster shutter speed to freeze HER motion.

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."


@wq9nsc wrote:

Unless your model is shivering from the cold, I wouldn't expect 1/320 to be too slow for the typical portrait shot with a 50mm lens.  I sometimes drop to 1/640 for high school sports in poor lighting and that freezes most football player motion.

 

I don't use my 5DS and 5DS R bodies for sports but I have noticed with these 50 MP bodies that it does appear to take a little faster shutter speed than typical for some situations.  It seems that highly pixel dense sensors will exacerbate any motion blur.  But 1/320 should be enough for portraits except under unusual conditions.

 

Put your camera on a tripod and shoot an inanimate object at 1/320 and that will show whether it is motion blur or something else causing the issue.

 

Rodger


I have found that the closer, [and tighter] that I am to the moving subject, the faster the shutter speed that is needed.

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."

clo6958
Apprentice

Hey, I noticed this same issue. At my work, we have a Canon R5. When I shot on it with the RF mount lenses (the 24-105mm f4 and the 70-200mm f2.8), my photos were flawless, and when I shot with control ring adapter and that EOS mount lenses, my photos are a little soft...

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