02-04-2021 09:43 PM - edited 02-04-2021 10:03 PM
I have been trying different lens and my photos are no way near as good as my Mark II. I am very disappointed with my purchase of this Mark IV after hearing so many reviews of how great it is I have yet to see a landscape or wildlife image that comes close to my Mark II.
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02-04-2021 11:49 PM
You are welcome and I know EXACTLY what you mean about the excitement of photographing wildlife. It is very easy to be so concerned about capturing the moment that it is far too easy to overlook getting optimal settings and framing. I have definitely been there and done that!
Although my setup is different from tradition and what many others use and recommend, I have found that with the excellent auto ISO algorithm in current Canon bodies that manually setting aperture and shutter speed while using auto ISO works very well for action shots. This is particularly true with a longer telephoto lens. My rationale is simple, below a certain shutter speed I am not going to be able to freeze motion and without IS or a tripod in use there is a minimum shutter speed to avoid camera shake even if you aren't trying to freeze motion. So for most of my shooting, shutter speed is going to be set to easily freeze motion. Most of the time I am using Canon long primes that are about as sharp wide open as they are with the aperture stepped down slightly. So unless the lighting is excellent or for some reason I need to increase depth of field I will set the aperture wide open or within 1 or 2 stops when I need a little more DoF or want exact focus tracking to be less critical. ISO is the third leg of the exposure triangle and I let the camera set that, with the shutter speed and aperture fixed by me I know that the camera is going to choose the lowest ISO number it can to provide a standard exposure with best possible image quality.
I started shooting sports using manual aperture and shutter speed with auto ISO several years ago and have carried it over into wildlife. I don't know about Nikon or other makes but the Canon auto ISO algorithm performs without flaw. I do shoot everything in RAW so that I can make minor exposure adjustments in post but the camera metering gets it very close if not perfect in the great majority of cases. When I had a 1D Mark II, I shot mostly in shutter priority to freeze sports motion and depending upon lighting set the ISO to as high as possible without sacrificing too much image quality but with the newer bodies with auto ISO I really prefer the control of pure manual so that the camera is going to provide the level of motion freezing and depth of field totally under my control.
This is one of many eagle photos I shot last month, the only exposure setting changes I made throughout the day was closing down the aperture a bit at times from the wide open f5.6 setting of my 800 mm lens when lighting permitted. But ultimately you will need to try different setups and choose what works best for you. Ultimately the old adage of "haste makes waste" really applies to photography and it is better to miss some captures completely if that leads to much higher quality captures in your mix of photos.
Good luck, the 5D IV is a very nice camera and you will love it once you and it are on the same page 🙂
Rodger
Rodger
02-04-2021 10:21 PM
Your exposure settings were interesting according to the EXIF data, why did you close down aperture to f32? It also appeals mildly overexposed to me with some loss of contrast from that over-exposure. With the exposure settings chosen, the ISO was up to 12,800 which is going to create some noise or grain. Sometimes conditions force ISO that high (I shoot fast action sports that require fast shutter speed and am often in poorly lit venues so my 1DX bodies often get pushed into this range) but I can't see the need for ISO 12,800 given what I think you were trying to accomplish under bright daylight conditions.
It appears you were shooting that from a pretty far distance with a 300mm lens and dropping to f8 would have still provided well over 100 feet of depth of field while putting your ISO at a far more reasonable 3200. I don't know which lens you were using but at 1/100 shutter speed it would need to either have IS or be on a good tripod to avoid motion blur reducing the ultimate resolution of which your camera is capable.
Rodger
02-04-2021 11:10 PM - edited 02-04-2021 11:17 PM
Thank you for looking at my post and file. I was a bit excited about the eagle and did not look at my settings. It was shot near sunset in the shade.
I will attempt again with diligence to my settings. I was afraid that he would fly so I tried my trusted AV settings but this is a new baby for me. this image I thought would have been sharper being in full sunlight
02-04-2021 11:41 PM
@depshado wrote:Thank you for looking at my post and file. I was a bit excited about the eagle and did not look at my settings. It was shot near sunset in the shade.
I will attempt again with diligence to my settings. I was afraid that he would fly so I tried my trusted AV settings but this is a new baby for me. this image I thought would have been sharper being in full sunlight
What happens if you attempt to take less challenging photos, and at focal lengths under 100mm?
02-04-2021 11:57 PM
well, less challenging shots look GREAT! But that isn't as exciting as birds of prey
02-05-2021 07:54 AM
I noticed a couple things with the buck close up. Which 150-600mm super zoom do you have? I also see you are on LR 4. I don't think LR4 has lens correction for any of the newer 150-600mm zooms. A SS of 1/500 with a 600mm shot is bare minimum and 1/1000 should be your target SS when using such a long FL lens. Of course that's a general rule of thumb.
If you have one of the first versions of the 150-600mm zooms, they aren't quite as sharp as the latest models.
Here is how I use my Sigma 150-600mm Sport lens. I use Av so I recommend you get out of P mode. Set ISO around 800 but be ready to change it if needed. Set the Av aperture to open or even f8. I like auto WB but I shoot Raw 100% of the time so WB isn't a factor. Check to see if your version of LR has lens correction for your lens. If not it is time to upgrade your LR version. You can set a sharpness setting inside the Mk IV but it is better to do it in LR and better yet in Photoshop with unsharp mask.
In LR use a preset to have LR do lens correction on every thing you import to it. Then in the Develop module go to Detail and adjust the sharpness. You know how to do that? Alt key and masking on Windows?
The 5D Mk IV is a fantastic camera capable of outstanding photos but you have to feed it correctly for the best result. The better gear you get the more difficult it is to get the best because they record so much detail. Kinda like the good with the bad. Also remember the lens is the key. It is far better to have a great lens and a poor camera than a fantastic camera and a poor lens. This also includes you providing a proper steady shot with the best settings and editing.
02-05-2021 11:53 AM
02-05-2021 07:59 AM
This shot was with my 150-600mm Sigma Sport. 1DX, Sigma 150-600mm S at 600mm, f6.3, SS 1/2000, ISO 800. Raw file format. Lens correction and slight unsharp mask in LR and WB correction. That's all. It is a 50+% crop of the original.
It is always better to get closer. That is even more important than a better lens.
02-05-2021 11:53 AM
02-05-2021 12:27 PM
"Thank you for the advice on my Tamron lens..."
You are certainly welcome. I hope a bit rubs off and helps you some. I have tested the big Tammy G2 150-600mm, new model, it is in my opinion the sharpest of the bunch right now. If you need any, and I can help, tips on LR let me know.
Always remember the camera is basically a storage device. You and your lens tell it what to store.
I had a Mk II and I loved it. I had a Mk III and I loved it, too. I retired before I could love a Mk IV ! There is no doubt you will love your Mk IV. As far as taking pictures it is probably a better choice than any of the 1 series cameras are.
Although they are just storage devices there is a bit of gadgetry going on inside.
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