The moisture that got into the controls likely has it appearing to the control board that more than one control input is being constantly activated. Although fresh water isn't great for electronic stuff it isn't that harmful by itself BUT the oils and salt from your skin along with other environmental debris which were carried into the controls along with the moisture leave a residue that stays conductive even after it dries.
In cases where it is possible to isolate the switches and push buttons from the rest of the camera, flushing with WD-40 works well. WD-40 was originally developed to displace water and all it leaves behind is a light oil (which also evaporates over a few days) that is non-conductive. I have used it often in restoring vintage electronic gear as a flushing/cleaning agent BUT you have to be very careful not to get it where you don't want it ESPECIALLY in a camera. One of the world's leading test and measurements equipment firm released a service note several decades ago after testing various contact cleaners and found that WD-40 provided the best results with the very expensive precision potentiometers used in their instruments.
With some vintage radio gear that I restore, I start with a thorough flush with distilled water and then use WD-40 as part of the cleaning/drying process. But I wouldn't use that level of cleaning with a precision camera. Good luck getting your camera going again.
Rodger
EOS 1DX M3, 1DX M2, 1DX, 5DS R, M6 Mark II, 1D M2, EOS 650 (film), many lenses, XF400 video
