01-08-2024 05:14 PM
Hello, needing some advice on which is better. My first (and only) camera is a Canon Rebel T3i. I've had it for the past 5 years. I have the 18-55 kit lense, 75-300 telephoto, and, gen 1(not sure if that's what it's technically called, but first iteration) 50mm 1.8. Since I got the nifty fifty, I really haven't used the other two lenses much. I was relatively content with my camera, until just recently. My dad recently picked up a 7D, and his auto focus is usable. Mine is so slow that it honestly is almost useless. We're planning some trips in the near future, and I'd like something that has a enough technology that I can put it on auto and just click away occasionally so I don't have to be MIA because I'm trying to take a picture... Maybe my auto focus settings are wrong, but I'm still kinda wondering about a new to me camera. I seem to end up taking pictures mainly in low light, so I'm wondering if either of those cameras would perform better than my T3i substantially? How much better would an 80D be if I could find one?
The SL3 I'm looking at just has the 18-55 kit lense and is $300 obo.
The T7i has the kit lense and the 55-250 which I've heard is a much better lense than my 75-300. That one is $400 obo.
Hopefully my rambling made sense. Looking forward to hearing any advice you guys have for a newbie!
Thanks in advance!
Courage
01-08-2024 10:16 PM
Trevor,
I was lucky enough to be gifted an 18-135, and it stays on my camera about 90% of the time.
Steve Thomas
01-08-2024 10:19 PM - edited 01-09-2024 01:04 AM
Definitely with Steve on this. You might be able to get a lot more benefit from using your current camera, with upgraded lenses. However, the first step is to get your shooting methodology sorted and then we can look at the gear.
Yep, the 75-300 is pretty mediocre, at best. The 55-250 would be a reasonable replacement, or if you can find one, the EF 70-300 has more reach, but all of the versions of it are great optics. See my post on that range:
70-300 Canon Lenses In-Depth Analysis - Page 4 - Canon Community.
If you prefer shooting at the shorter range, the 50mm might work well as is, but if you don't need the reach of the 55-250 and want an excellent walk-around lens, the 18-135 STM or USM versions are excellent and you can get some great close-up shots with that lens.Canon T3i, EF-S 198-135 USM@ 105mm, f/7.1, 1/250sec, ISO-800
Canon 80D, EF-S 18-135mm@135mm, f/8, 1/2000sec, ISO-200, hand-held
01-08-2024 10:27 PM
Good fortune indeed! I had 3 of them 2x STM and 1xUSM, I sold the STM versions but still have the other.
01-09-2024 12:36 AM
I'll switch to Av mode and see it that helps. I really had never thought of that.
I'm amazed that some of those pics were taken with a T3i! Good job.
So it it sounds like most of my problem is with me, the photographer, but switching to that T7i and the newer lenses would be helpful.
01-09-2024 12:37 AM
Definitely going to put it in Av mode and do some shooting.
It's a used camera on Facebook Marketplace.
01-09-2024 12:38 AM
Well, let's say that the easiest and cheapest thing is to work on technique and then we'll look at the gear side of things.
01-09-2024 12:40 AM
That's incredible that you took the bird picture through a window! Any tips on what you did make it look so clear? I've never had much success shooting through windows...
01-09-2024 12:43 AM - edited 01-09-2024 12:53 AM
I use quite specific settings that you may, at some time consider:
I use a thing called Back Button Focus, which separates the focus from the shutter button. This allows me to react very quickly to focusing situations and not re-focus as I am taking a photo. For a reference video on this see this one from Canon Australia: note that this includes a feature called Servo Autofocus.
As well as that, I use single-point focus, set to be in the centre of the image area.
Then I use single point metering. Evaluative metering, the default option, tries to average out the exposure for the whole image area, but that might not work in the event of a lot of contrast, or a very bright subject (like a polar bear) or a very dark subject (like a black bear). In the former situation the image would tend to be under exposed, while the latter it would be over exposed.
By using single point exposure, I can select a point that is a mid-grey, which is what a sensor looks to emulate and lock that in. I can assign this to the * button on the back of the camera - see custom controls in your manual.
So, when I take a photo, I do the following:
Point at a mid-grey point and tap the * button to lock the exposure.
Point at my subject (an eye for example) and tap to lock focus for a still object, but hold for a moving one.
Recompose and press the shutter button to shoot.
With practice this is a very fast method of shooting.
01-09-2024 12:57 AM
Just went and read that post you linked, seems like it'd be a great lense to have in my kit!
I'm definitely going to take your advice about trying Av mode, hopefully tomorrow.
01-09-2024 12:58 AM
Good for you. Go for it!
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