Remote shutter control for Rebel T3

[AUricle]

Hi,

I'm planning on using my T3 coupled to a 1000mm telephoto lens to capture the total solar eclipse this summer.

But I don't want to spend the precious moments of totality fiddling with my camera. In fact, I don't want to even TOUCH the camera.

I've found software that automates a series of scripted time/exposure sequences when the camera is hooked to a laptop. It says it is compatible with The whole Rebel T and Ti series.

I'm doing this so that I can take many photo's quickly and pass the data directly to the computer, instead of getting the camera bogged down writing the data to a limited storage SD card. This should free up the camera to recover from bursts faster.

I see many many cabling solutions for mating the computer and camera, but they all seem to involve Canon models that use the TC-80N3 remote switch, but none with the RS-60E3 switch cable end to connect to my T3.

So, even though the software says it works with the T3, is there some limitation on the camera itself that prevents a solution to properly cable this project?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

[AUricle]

---

@Waddizzle wrote:

"I think the more frames you can capture, the better.  You need to practice what you intend to do.  And, some moments do not last very long at all.

Full eclipses have the "diamond ring" moment, which lasts only briefly, for just a moment or two.  I would compare it to the the above shot of the Sun just breaking the horizon. That moment when the sun was just a small jewel, came and went in about two seconds.  The exposure differences before, during, and after that moment were several Ev".

---

Right Waddy!

It's the one area where Robert is sorta missing the point. During those moments when Bailey's Beads appear at the onset of totality, you really can't get enough exposures, because you never know exactly how and how long they'll appear at your exact viewing location. Which is why I want to automate the routine as much as possible with the expected time totality will occur. I want to see it with my own eyes so if my camera shooting is a hair late, I'll still record the event 'upstairs'.

There are other transient events during totality too, though not as dramatic as the "diamond rings".

To answer your earlier question about tracking, most systems have lunar and solar tracking speed options, so as long as you get your scope aligned to the celestial north pole, its not a problem.

With regards to heat fogging the sensor, solar filters used during the hour + of partial eclipse block 99,999/100,000ths of the incoming light and the shooting will be light. 5 minute intervals. In between time, I can even blot out the sun totally if I want to, though it really isn't necessary.

Toyality presents a black sky save for the soft glow of the Sun's atmosphere, which is the oooh-ahhh time. Virtually no heat will build on the sensor.

But prolonged use of live view mode can actually introduce heat to the sensor on the T3, because unlike the Ti series, the screen doesn't flip out to the side.. it's stationary.

Anyway, I'm jumping out of my skin already over this. It may be the one and only chance I'll get to see something like this, and from the accounts I've heard and read, it is a visceral event for humans and animals both physically and emotionally. Nothing else in our existence compares. So the time until August, will give me a lot of practice time. I want to be able to do this in my sleep!

Thing is,.....even the best prep is subject to the WEATHER!  ;-(

[AUricle]

kvb,

I looked at the  RA-E3 remote controller adapter. It looks to fit the entire Ti  series with it's 3.5mm connector, but once again, it comes up empty for the T3

As much as I've enjoyed this camera, I think I got the runt of the litter, so to speak

There must be some structural or programming issue that stands in my way here, but thanks for your suggestions.

I'm not going to give up just yet....

[kvbarkley]

If the T3 has a 3.5 mm remote shutter socket, it will work.

By the way, with a 1000 mm lens and a fixed tripod, you are going to have to constantly reposition the sun anyway. 1000 mm on a rebel has a 1.5 degree field of view. The sun -s about .5 degrees wide. It moves at about 360 deg/24 hours = 15 degrees per hour or 0.25 degrees a minute. 

[Waddizzle]

---

@kvbarkley wrote:

If the T3 has a 3.5 mm remote shutter socket, it will work.

By the way, with a 1000 mm lens and a fixed tripod, you are going to have to constantly reposition the sun anyway. 1000 mm on a rebel has a 1.5 degree field of view. The sun -s about .5 degrees wide. It moves at about 360 deg/24 hours = 15 degrees per hour or 0.25 degrees a minute. 

---

I think he said that he has a tracking telescope mount.  How that works in the daytime without a guide, I'm not sure.

[AUricle]

kvb, 

T3's have a 2.5mm jack and port, so that doesn't work. But I have a source for the cabling now, if indeed I go that way.

I'm trying to learn more about the EOS utility, and tried a few things out this evening. So I just may find it as good as anything for getting what I want out of this.

One thing I notice that may help bigtime is "live mode" shooting while viewing on the computer. Lets the camera LCD rest, and it won't introduce the possibility of heat that could be picked up by the sensor. 

I appreciate the interest and tips.

[kvbarkley]

---

@AUricle wrote:

kvb, 

T3's have a 2.5mm jack and port, so that doesn't work.

---

The RA-E3's sole purpose is to convert the funky connection on the TC-80N to the 2.5mm connectors used on the Rebels. Though strangely, the system map for the T6S shows this and the system map for the T3 does not.

[Waddizzle]

---

@AUricle wrote:

kvb, 

T3's have a 2.5mm jack and port, so that doesn't work. But I have a source for the cabling now, if indeed I go that way.

I'm trying to learn more about the EOS utility, and tried a few things out this evening. So I just may find it as good as anything for getting what I want out of this.

One thing I notice that may help bigtime is "live mode" shooting while viewing on the computer. Lets the camera LCD rest, and it won't introduce the possibility of heat that could be picked up by the sensor. 

I appreciate the interest and tips.

---

Excessive heat on the image sensor would not come from the LCD.  It will come from being exposed to direct sunlight.

I think the EOS Utility is capable of doing what you are looking to do.  The greatest difficulty will most likely be seeing your external monitor screens under strong sunlight conditions.  Remember, to practice, practice, practice what it is that you want to do. 

[Waddizzle]

"I'm planning on using my T3 coupled to a 1000mm telephoto lens to capture the total solar eclipse this summer."

That is going to be a lot of equivalent focal length.  I suspect that you will more than fill the frame with the sun.  Heed the above advice about filters.  With that much focal lenght you will want to lock up the mirror.  Not sure if a T3 can do it, though.

Be sure to have a VERY robust tripod with a VERY robust tripod head.  Once you start point the camera/len upwards, the weight can become significantly off-center, which decreases the stability of your setup.  For that reason, keep your tripod column fully lowered.  Even better, use a tripod without a center column.

[AUricle]

Waddizzle,

Thanks for the tips.

The eclipse will occur almost mid-day, so for the partial phases, I have the necessary filter to fit the telephoto lens, which has a 90mm diameter and 1000mm f/l. (During totality, no filter is needed photographically or visually for those 160 seconds of awesomeness!)

At prime focus, without any magnification, I should get an image diameter of about 13mm or so. Ithink I can go up to 1.4x mag. and still capture 100% of the solar disk and also the inner corona during totality, without exceeding the sensors image size limits, but I plan to start testing all this as soon as the weather allows in the Chicago area.

Because I have to accurately track the Sun during the eclipse, I'll need a driven tripod. Easiest option for me is to piggyback the whole photo rig on my Celestron C-8 telescope which has the drive motors needed for tracking. (and the beef to support all that off axis weight)

At my age, this could be a once in a lifetime opportunity, so I gotta get this right.....the FIRST time 🙂

[Waddizzle]

Good luck.  Practice makes perfect.

I suppose taking shots of the Moon might be good for practicing lots of accurate captures, too.