10-26-2017 10:05 PM
Solved! Go to Solution.
10-30-2017 06:36 PM
@KevinG1 wrote:
Gotcha. Ill just need to shoot more and see what methods work best for me.
Also i did a micro af adjustment and found my canon 50mm 1.4 was off a bit. Definitely wasn't helping me
I suggest that you reset your AFMA back to zero, until you gain more experience with the camera. Learn how to half press the shutter when using One Shot mode, so that you can evaluate the AF points.
When you have all AF points active, like [A} mode, you may see multiple AF points light up. Be aware of the fact that the camera is indicating which AF points are capable of achieving a focus lock, but only one AF point will actually be used to focus the shot. The automatically selected AF point will typically rest on the closest object under an active AF point.
It is highly recommended that you configure the camera to always use the center AF point, which is the most sensitive and accurate AF point. And, always use One Shot focusing mode, until you gain more experience using the camera to focus on the subject that you want.
One final note. The AF points are actually slightly larger than the red boxes you see in the viewfinder. Placing an AF point on something may not always focus where you want it to. The camera will focus on the highest contrast area that it can find within the AF point coverage area. So aim your camera at vertical and horizontal contrasting lines.
11-05-2017 01:09 PM
@jrhoffman75 wrote:OP indicates that using single point AF with center FP gives poor results (i.e. agreement between viewfinder and LiveView, but using one FP up gives good results.
Can anyone explain that other that being due to a camera issue?
The OP didn't state that, a second poster stated that. The second poster was using a 2D poster for his comparison shots. Even the slightest error in either the lens or the camera (even within tolerance) will show up on a 2D target. That's why Canon recommends doing AF microadjustment where you have foreground and background so you can see where the camera is focusing.
Also see my post above with the addendum from Roger at Lens Rentals.
11-05-2017 01:31 PM - edited 11-05-2017 02:09 PM
Good clarification. I meant the OP of this particular problemproblem (Naipes) that is being discussed now.
11-05-2017 12:58 PM
@RobertTheFat wrote:
@Waddizzle wrote:When you use Live View, does it close the shutter to focus? <— One Shot, when you half press the shutter.
In Live View, doesn't it, almost by definition, use the sensor to focus? IOW, it couldn't be focusing with the shutter closed?
Okay. I just tested this on my 6D.
In the Live View menu screen, one of the last red ones, you can set the “AF Method”. When it is set to “Quick Mode”, then focusing is achieved by dropping the mirror, and using the AF system, and then raising the mirror once focus is locked on a subject. It is much faster than image sensor focusing, which I guess explains the name.
11-05-2017 10:10 AM
11-05-2017 10:22 AM
@KevinG1 wrote:
Are you talking about me? Or napies when you said the camere waa bad? You said OP but idk if that was towards me
Your camera is under warranty. You should get it checked.. For all we know, the delivery box may have been dropped and bounced around a few times before it arrived at your house, and damaged the camera slightly. It could simply be misaligned.
11-05-2017 11:25 AM - edited 11-05-2017 12:31 PM
@KevinG1 wrote:
Are you talking about me? Or napies when you said the camere waa bad? You said OP but idk if that was towards me
I think it has been pretty well established that your issue was a misunderstanding of the 45 point AF system, and that your 50mm f/1.4 needs AF microadjustment.
Your AF microadjustment of your 50mm f/1.4 which you said had improved its performance that he said you should undo was what I was referring to, when I said telling you to undo something that worked was nonsense.
I don't think there is anything wrong with your camera.
I'm not certain if there is anything wrong with the other posters camera or not, but, eliminating other factors like we did with your camera is important before simply saying send it back.
It is next to impossible to judge how far an AF system is off using a 2D target.
In Canon's AF Microadjustment Guidebook they address this, and recommend a vertical target set up on grass, so you can see where the focus is actually falling. (front or back)
If a camera requires extreme AF Microadjustment (> +/- 15) with all lenses, yes it probably needs a trip into Canon as it is likely out of tolerance or certainly on the edge of it.
However if it requires smaller adjustment with most lenses, or some lenses require positive adjustment and others negative, then that indicates there really isn't an issue with the camera.
For the other poster, forgoing AF Microfocus adjustment and simply sending the camera back in my opinion is a waste of the user and Canon's time.
11-05-2017 10:25 AM
11-05-2017 10:57 AM
@KevinG1 wrote:
Im comparing this to my friend who's using a 6d with the same lens,50mm1.4, and he shots car photography at 1.4 with no issues at all.
Bad lens. Let him test your lens on his camera body, and vice versa.
11-05-2017 10:59 AM
11-05-2017 11:00 AM
12/18/2024: New firmware updates are available.
EOS C300 Mark III - Version 1..0.9.1
EOS C500 Mark II - Version 1.1.3.1
12/05/2024: New firmware updates are available.
EOS R5 Mark II - Version 1.0.2
09/26/2024: New firmware updates are available.
EOS R6 Mark II - Version 1.5.0
Canon U.S.A Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited.