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Indoor Action Shots w/ EOS Rebel T3

oesterle
Apprentice

Will the EOS Rebel T3 take decent action indoor photos like at a dog trial where the dogs are running and going over high jumps?

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

Freezing action requires a fast shutter. A fast shutter doesn't allow ambient light much time to bake an exposure onto the sensor. There is usually not enough light indoors to work with a fast shutter so one of two compensation measures must be employed: 1.) use a wide lens opening (aperture) and/or 2.) boost the ISO sensitivity.

1.). Aperture solution not possible with basic kit lenses. You would like something like an 85mm f/1.8 or a 70-200 f/2.8, which allow over 4 times or over 2 times more light (respectively) into the camera as compared to a kit lens.
2.). A crop sensor camera will look worse at equivalent high ISO than a full frame camera. I don't think you much want to exceed ISO 800 on the Rebels. You would probably get about the same image quality on a FF 6d at 2 stops higher ISO (about 3200).

Between the 2 stops you'd gain with a 1.8 lens and the 2 more stops you'd gain in high ISO image quality on a full frame sensor you could be getting something like 16x more light to work with than what a Rebel and kit lens allow. Divided up between raising shutter speed and lowering the digital noise that is a big difference.

The 85mm or the similar 100mm Canon lenses are only about $325 or $375 on sale. That is a cheap way to make a big difference immediately, and both will also mount on a full frame camera if you switch over some day.

Good luck!
Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

View solution in original post

7 REPLIES 7

Skirball
Authority

Compared to a cellphone, yes.  Compared to a full frame camera and good telephoto lens, no.

 

I don't know if it's because winter is here and it's getting dark early, but this topic has come up a lot in the last week.  There are some pretty good threads on it if you look around.  Long story short: a Rebel T3 with a kit lens will struggle to freeze action indoors.

 

Here's a couple:

 

http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/EOS-Rebel/Help-me-with-night-football-on-a-Eos-T3i/m-p/125281#U125281

 

http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/Speedlites/canon-50d-I-have-a-canon-ef-s-55-250-IS-lens/m-p/125715/hi...

 

http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/EOS/Trouble-with-low-light-action-shots-on-70d/m-p/125259/highlight/t...

Freezing action requires a fast shutter. A fast shutter doesn't allow ambient light much time to bake an exposure onto the sensor. There is usually not enough light indoors to work with a fast shutter so one of two compensation measures must be employed: 1.) use a wide lens opening (aperture) and/or 2.) boost the ISO sensitivity.

1.). Aperture solution not possible with basic kit lenses. You would like something like an 85mm f/1.8 or a 70-200 f/2.8, which allow over 4 times or over 2 times more light (respectively) into the camera as compared to a kit lens.
2.). A crop sensor camera will look worse at equivalent high ISO than a full frame camera. I don't think you much want to exceed ISO 800 on the Rebels. You would probably get about the same image quality on a FF 6d at 2 stops higher ISO (about 3200).

Between the 2 stops you'd gain with a 1.8 lens and the 2 more stops you'd gain in high ISO image quality on a full frame sensor you could be getting something like 16x more light to work with than what a Rebel and kit lens allow. Divided up between raising shutter speed and lowering the digital noise that is a big difference.

The 85mm or the similar 100mm Canon lenses are only about $325 or $375 on sale. That is a cheap way to make a big difference immediately, and both will also mount on a full frame camera if you switch over some day.

Good luck!
Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

The question is not whether the camera, the T3, can do it but whether your lens can.  What lens are you using?

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens

"EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens"

 

If it is very dark, you are going to have issues with this lens.  It quickly slides down to f5.6 and that won't help.

Any lens you choose with a constant f ratio of f2.8 or bigger (smaller number) will help.  A lot!

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Can't it be forced to stay at f3.5?

"Can't it be forced to stay at f3.5?"

 

Yes it can as long as you stay at 18mm and never zoom it.   Otherwise, no.  Smiley Sad

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
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