EOS R5 Blurry screen, viewfinder, and CamRanger 2 image, but pictures are sharp.

[iZip42104]

Howdy!

EOS R5     RF100mm F2.8 L MACRO IS USM

I recently began using CamRanger 2 to take stacked macro photos.  I quickly noticed that I did not have a clear image in my viewfinder, screen, and on the CamRanger app.  I have been using my R5 and macro lens to take pics of insects for several years, but never noticed this blurry image before.  The pictures are clear and sharp.  It is just the image in the viewfinder and screen that is blurry.  I need the image to be sharp for setting the focus points on the CamRanger 2

Thinking it may be an issue with the R5, I got my second R5 out and I am getting the same results using the same lens.  Clear and sharp pictures, but blurry images thru the viewfinder, and screen.  

I have searched for solutions on this forum and online, but have found nothing that worked.  I have pictures if that would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for any attention given to this issue.

John

[iZip42104]

So, pressing the depth of field preview button sharpened up the image on the EVF, the LCD, and in CamRanger.  Thank you for suggesting that! 

Is there any way to keep the view I am trying to focus by at the correct depth of field all the time?  In other words, do I have to press the depth of field button with my right hand while I'm working the focus adjustment in CamRange 2 with my left hand?  I don't think I am coordinated enough to do that.

Surely there must be something I can do to that would keep the depth of field where it needs to be for clear focusing?

Thanks again for your help with this!

[deebatman316]

@iZip42104 it’s not possible the camera locks out the AF system when the depth of field button is pressed. Even for manual focusing too the lens won’t have power to adjust focus manually. If you’re using focus by wire lenses. That includes ALL RF lenses and some EF lenses (Nano USM, some Ring Type USM & STM lenses. You can however magnify the image in live view mode. Then focus manually until everything is in focus. But the depth of field will be shallow still since the lens aperture is wide open.

[FloridaDrafter · Accepted solution]

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@iZip42104 wrote:

Surely there must be something I can do to that would keep the depth of field where it needs to be for clear focusing?

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That's what's puzzling to me. I depend on that narrow DOF to set my start point (A), and if I'm using Helicon, to set my end point (B). "A" being the nearest and "B" the farthest. The screen capture example is a dime sized flower using the R5, RF 100mm, and Helicon Remote

Rendered and color profile added. [EDITED] Oops, I posted the wrong rendering 🙂

The same applies to when I'm using the in camera feature to shoot my stacks. I rely on that narrow f/2.8 at MFD to get a sharp start point. I'm using the same gear as you and have no trouble discerning sharp focus at f/2.8, be it in the EVF, the LCD, or my computer monitor. I looked at your images, and am even more baffled 🤔 My "knee jerk" reaction is that you're either to close, the focus distance switch is improperly set, or your SA ring is at an extreme setting. TBH, I'm at a loss given the success I've had with the RF 100 and the R5 series cameras.

I will add that my experience goes way back to the days of using a WeMacro rail and Helicon with various DSLR's, so I've been doing this for quite some time before the 5 years with the R5 series 🙂

I hope you get it figured out.

Newton

 

[Waddizzle]

“ Surely there must be something I can do to that would keep the depth of field where it needs to be for clear focusing? “

The best focusing occurs when the aperture is wide open. This allows for the maximum amount of light to reach the sensor. 

You are focusing at the optimal aperture setting. If have not already try the short test I described previously. 

When you are doing macro photography, image stacking and post processing is practically a must. 

This is a composite of (10) images. 

 

[kvbarkley]

"The best focusing occurs when the aperture is wide open. This allows for the maximum amount of light to reach the sensor."

Not only that, but it narrows the band of sharp focus, which is good for the control loop.

[iZip42104]

OK,  the issue was that CamRanger advised me to use F11 for most situations.  Not having any experience with this kind of photography before, I followed the advice.  When Florida Drafter mentioned what F stop he used, I tried that and the problems went away.  Thanks so much Florida Drafter!

Thanks to all who responded. I appreciate your time and sharing your thoughts.

[FloridaDrafter]

I'm glad you have it worked out!

I probably should have carried my reply a bit further. As others have explained, a wide open aperture (f/2.8 on the RF 100mm) is the stop the camera uses to maximize exposure. This allows the focusing system the best opportunity to get sharp focus. Now, that's not to say you have to use that aperture to capture the stack, it's just what the camera uses to maximize AF. I use whatever aperture that I need for a particular stack and take advantage of the cameras need to focus "wide open".

Newton