EOS 90D HDR or Multi Shot for train photography

[Ramsden]

Hello from a snowy North of England 

EOS90d to hand and a new ef 70-300 IS USM just added. The attached photo was with my kit  135mm lens and I intend to take more railway + infrastructure. So I know some guys say switch off HDR probably because of its 'automatic' nature.

So I'm planning more viaduct shots and wondering about using multiple shots and learning to use bracketing. I still intend to mix freezing the train and blurring. Up to now the blurrs havent worked very well - more of a smudge! I learnt to use manual focus and try to work in M as much as possible.

So basically, will multi shots help or hinder in this process.

Thanks

Ramsden

 

[DougsGraphics]

Ramsden,

A few separate (but always inter-related) topics going on there.  First, exposure is setting your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO to get an image that provides the best use of the dynamic range of your camera sensor so that you don't capture important details in both the bright or dark areas of the photo.  Think exposure triangle. 

Focusing 1/3rd into the scene has to do with depth of field, which also relates to aperture. The more you stop down your aperture, the more depth of field you will achieve. The guideline of focusing 1/3rd into the scene is to optimize the focus placement. This works well for most landscape photos, especially if there is not a central subject that is meant to draw the eye of the viewer -- that central subject needs to be sharp and that can cause you to rethink that guidance in certain instances (like an animal's eye -- always need to be the focus point for an animal portrait). Also, the wider the lens angle of view the greater the DOF at any given aperture.

Be careful of a couple things when planning to stack photos.  There is stacking for exposure, and there is stacking for focus.  If you change your focus, composition, or zoom during the images, you can experience challenges bringing them together seamlessly in post.  Keep it simple, especially at first.  

When it comes to capturing the train frozen or blurred, that is where the shutter speed comes in (which cannot be thought of independently of the aperture and ISO -- exposure triangle).  As a general thought process, think of how much movement you want to see in the train and contemplate how long an exposure interval is necessary for the train to move that distance and balance accordingly.  

Regarding the burst in the picture, that is the sun.  That was taken mid-morning with the sun in the photo -- very careful here as direct sun exposure can kill your camera sensor -- at 14mm, f/22, 1/40 sec, and ISO of 160 (Canon 5D Mk 4, EF 14mm f/2.8L II). The shape of the aperture influences the shape of the burst, and the individual elements of the lens contribute to the glare pattern. Note the DOF achieved.  The focus point here was probably much closer to the camera than the 1/3rd rule because infinity focus with that lens is at about a meter.

If you shoot in raw, there is no need to be concerned in the field about white balance setting-- 100% alterable in post. So just take that variable out of your mind for now.

By the way, if there is snow on the ground, you will naturally get more light on that stonework from the reflected ambient!  Cloud cover or twilight situations can also provide opportunities to compress the exposure range of the scene. The trestle is not going anywhere, so you can time your shot (train tables not withstanding).  I have a friend who shoots trains all over western US and he plans his timing carefully for lighting and weather, foliage color, specific trains on specific routes, etc. , just like I do with astrophotography work.

[Ramsden]

Good morning 

-4° outside temp today - so still very nervous about walking around with my camera. I've ended up buying books 1&2 Ansel Adams! I'm sure my Dad used his work, and as I've said before, he taught me to develop my own films in our cellar/basement. 

Since I got this camera, I've almost always centered the exposure meter on 0, so now I feel more adventurous in playing around with + & - exposure. Plus, I sometimes use B&W and this shot will lend itself to that and probably make it easier to apply the zones. 

The photo is of my Dads last camera which I have on my wall - he still had an exposure meter and a flash unit with exposure settings.

Thanks again for your support. I continue to learn, which is great fun.

 

[Ramsden]

Dr Google!

 

[ebiggs1]

Of course without actually being there I can't give exacting settings but one thing that has always guided me is, let the main most important thing be the main most important thing. Focus and expose on that. Do the tricks to get what else you feel is important in the image if warranted.

Another thing to keep in mind is don't overthink the camera or the scene. A lot of the time the camera is smarter than you might think. And, if you have a P mode scene let it be a P mode scene. 80% of your shots will be P mode capable.

Use a tripod when it is necessary and don't when it is not. Again most of the time a tripod is not necessary.

You did mention bracketing but along with bracketing there is multiple shots. The very same scene but with slightly to drastically different settings. Settings that you may think some settings are silly but sometimes, just sometimes, they produce something real. A sample of trying different settings opposed to bracketing gave me this shot of our last comet visitor.

[Ramsden]

Hi EB

Thats a great shot and I've noted your points. This takes me back to composition and what's important in the shot. I'm going to take my time and probably take less photographs. Also I've just taken delivery of a hard back copy of Understanding Exposure - I had it on my Kindle - but its better with the book in front of your eyes. 

We're bracing ourselves for -12° tonight and tomorrow - and I'm going knowhere with camera in hand. Hopefully be in touch in a few days.

Ramsden