EOS 1300D How can i take pictures that will be saved on jpg instead the CR2 ?

[ttlromema]

I download the Digital Photo Professional 4 because i was need to convert many picture (CRR2 ) to JPG Files. 

But i want to ask :

1. If there is option to make that  the pictures i take will be saved on the camera from the begin as JPG files? and then i will no need to convert them on Digital Photo Professional to CR2.

2.That the pictures i take will be save on the camera from the begin as resized pictures?

Thanks 🙂

[Waddizzle]

Do you know what the “Quick Menu” is?  It is called by pressing the Q button, provided no images are being recalled from memory and displayed.  I’m guessing in the lower right corner you may see the word “RAW”.  Select that option.

A question like yours strongly suggests that you are not familiar with all of the camera’s features.  File save format is pretty basic stuff.  I suggest that you download an electronic copy of the FULL instruction manual from Canon Support.

[ebiggs1]

This is simple.  You can change it from Raw to jpg and you can even change the size and quality of the jpg.  Raw is not the default setting so you had to change it.  Just go back to that same menu and select jpg.

You need to spend some up close and personal quality time with your manual.

[RobertTheFat]

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@ebiggs1 wrote:

This is simple.  You can change it from Raw to jpg and you can even change the size and quality of the jpg.  Raw is not the default setting so you had to change it.  Just go back to that same menu and select jpg.

You need to spend some up close and personal quality time with your manual.

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Ernie raises an interesting, if somewhat peripheral, point. In high-end cameras, with which virtually everyone shoots in RAW, why is RAW not the default setting? On two separate occasions, I've received a camera back from Canon after a cleaning and gone into a photo shoot without noticing that the camera had been reverted to its default settings. Now I'd be the last to blame Canon for my carelessness, but it does seem that it would help more users than it would hurt if Canon were to reverse that particular source of error. Note that the consequences are less dire if you shoot RAW when you meant to shoot JPEG than if you shoot JPEG when you meant to shoot RAW.

[ebiggs1]

Since Raw to computer to jpg (or tiff) is virtually seamless I totally agree.

[Waddizzle]

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@ttlromema wrote:

I download the Digital Photo Professional 4 because i was need to convert many picture (CRR2 ) to JPG Files. 

But i want to ask :

1. If there is option to make that  the pictures i take will be saved on the camera from the begin as JPG files? and then i will no need to convert them on Digital Photo Professional to CR2.

2.That the pictures i take will be save on the camera from the begin as resized pictures?

Thanks 🙂

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Actually, shooting CR2 files, also known as RAW, is more desireable than shooting JPG in most cases.  

You have a much greater range of adjustments using DPP on a RAW files, than on a JPG file.  BTW, the camera can also be set to save both formats at the same time.  I suggest that you try this mode.

No one takes perfect photos every time they press the shutter.  Post processing your RAW images can enhance your images, correct for lens distortion, correct for over/under exposures, correct the White Balance, generate any size JPG, et cetera, et cetera.  

[TCampbell]

Since this question is addressed in the manual, I'm going to strongly suggest you download and read through the manual.

You can find it here:  http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/8/0300022698/01/eos-rebelt6-1300d-im-en.pdf

Specifically this is mentioned on page 88.  But you really should read through the entire thing to get familiar with your camera.  It can do quite a bit IF you know what it's features are and how to control them.  

Canon divides the usage into 'Basic Shooting' and 'Creative Shooting'. 

Basic shooting uses modes which are mostly automatic.  These are modes such as the full 'Auto' (the 'A' with the box & + sign), and they have icons for other modes such as the face for 'portrait' mode, the mountains for 'landscape' mode, etc.  If the camera knows what type of subject you plan to shoot, it can generally use settings that work well for that type of subject. But these modes are mostly automatic in that they do not let you override many settings. 

Creative shooting uses the part of the mode dial with labels P (Program mode), Tv (Time value or Shutter prority mode), Av (Aperture value or Aperture priority mode), or M (Manual mode).  In these modes you can control EVERYTHING.  The camera becomes your tool.   It makes no assumptions about what you want and just does as it's told.  Most experienced photographers are using these modes.

I say this because... if you set the camera to the automatic modes, a lot of your choices are blocked out and you'll notice lots of items are missing from menus (items where the camera controls those features when in that mode.)

Imaging recording quality (RAW vs. JPEG and JPEG quality level) are addressed on page 88 ... but that's the section of the manual that deals with Creative shooting.  It's not mentioned in the Basic shooting section (which implies that you can't control it in those modes ... you'll get a JPEG ... but I don't have a Rebel T6 / 1300D to test that.)

Everyone is correct in that RAW is generally regarded as better and the mode that experienced photographers want to use.  

When you shoot RAW, the camera captures & saves what the camera sensor 'saw'.  Nothing is adjusted.  Settings that control things such as white balance, color profiles ("picture style"), etc. are not applied.  Also, no in-camera sharpening or noise reducction is applied.  Basically it's just saving the data ... and the assumption is that you will deal with it when you transfer the image to your computer.

JPEG does apply all those things in-camera before saving to the memory card.

But there's a huge difference... JPEG is an 8-bit format.  This means each color channel (red, green, & blue) can record only 256 levels of tonality.   RAW is a 14-bit format.  It can record 16,384 levels of tonality.  That's quite a bit more (64 times more!)

The other huge difference is that JPEG is meant to "compress" the data to save on file space... but worse.. it's allowed to throw away important data if necessary in order to make a smaller file.  RAW wont do that.  

JPEG well take adjacent pixels which are "nearly" the same value (but not identical) and will decide if the difference is subtle enough that a human "probably" wont notice the diffrence.  If that's true, then it will "compress" the image by representing adjacent pixels as all just being the same color.    If the image is properly exposed and doesn't require a lot of dynamic range, then it might not need much adjustment after the shot.  But suppose the image was a little over-exposed and you want to adjust it on the computer by reducing the brightness... in a RAW image, you'd see the details coming back (suppose it was a white wedding dress with lots of lace and texture).  But in a JPEG image, those details were discarded ... it "compressed" the image size by making all the pixels identical.  There is no longer any recoverable detail.

That's just one example.

If you are taking photos ... essentially "snapshots" to remember events of your life... then JPEG is probably a good choice (it's the most popular choice among point & shoot cameras, smart-phone cameras, etc.)  

But if you are taking photos as a form of art... then you probably want to make adjustments to those photos and you should use RAW to preserve as much information and tonal range as possible.

Regarding "size".  

When we think of prints on photographic paper... those prints have size represented with measurements such as an 8 x 10" print.  (using linear units of measure such as "inches" or "centimeters").

When we think of images on the camera's memory card... those images have "size" which is really just pixels.  Pixels are not linear units of measure... different camera models can have different pixel sizes so there is no standard.  Most DSLR cameras shoot an image format where the wide-dimension is 1.5x wider than the narrow-dimension (often referred to as a 2:3 aspect ratio).  A 4x6" print has a 2:3 aspect ratio (for each 2 inches tall, it is 3 inches wide).

Suppose the sensor resolution is 6000 columns wide by 4000 rows tall (that's not the resolution of your sensor... I'm just picking on this to make the math easy).  And suppose you'd like to make a 4x6" print.  That means there are 1000 pixels per inch of paper (that's extremely high resolution.  Human eyes can't resolve individual pixels that small.)  But if you wanted to make a large 20" x 30" print to hang on the wall... that's 200 pixels per inch.  That's still "respectable"... but getting to the low side.  Generally if the resolution in terms of dots per inch drops too low then the human eye can see the individual dots and the resolution will look low.    If you're viewing the image from just a few feet away, you probably want to keep the resolution above 150 dots per inch.  But massive billboards are meant to be views from a distance... you might be hundreds of yards away.  Some billboards have staggering low resolution (like 11 pixels  per inch).  While you could easily notice just 11 pixels per inch if you were a few feet away... you can't notice that from a viewing distance of several hundred feet away.

There are loads of print "sizes" that are not 2:3 aspect ratio.  For example... a 5x7" or an 8x10".   You don't need to put the camera into a different mode.  Just shoot as you normally would but leave a little room in the wide direction so that you don't end up cutting out important details when you resize to print.  

The resize is actually called a "crop".  In other words... suppose you really want an 8x10 (that's a 4:5 aspect ratio... not a 2:3 aspect ratio).    You could imagine that to get an 8x10, you "print" an 8x12 (which is a 2:3 aspect ratio) and then just trim an inch off each side of the image until it measures 8x10.  In reality, the computer "crops" the image before sending it to the printer (you don't really print an 8x12" and then physically cut it down to size... but it's easy to "imagine" it that way and then you understand why we call it "cropping".)

Any image which is sized to print for any aspect ratio that isn't already 2:3... has to be "cropped" to do this.  This is done on the computer... not the camera.

[coachboz68]

I pretty much only shoot RAW for most of the reasons already discussed.  That said, if you want both, while I missed your camera model, many have the ability to shoot RAW+JPG, which means you get one of each format for each shot you take.  If your camera has two card slots, you can send JPG to one and RAW to the other.  Even my point-and-shoot Sony RX100V has the option of shooting both formats to the same card, so like I said, I think it's a fairly common option.  If you're doing this to the same card, then the price you pay is in write performance as it has to write and buffer two files for every shot.  There are various reasons someone would or would not want to do this... I'm just letting you know the option exists. 

[John_SD]

The best advice in this thread has already been given by Waddizzle and Tim. Download and read the manual.