Canon EOS 6D Settings

[EvrenDumanoglu]

I'm using Lightroom and Photoshop with RAW file format.

[ebiggs1]

This is my suggestion, too!

"My suggestion would be to hire an actual photographer to train you.

Short of that, try the Green A+ intellegent auto mode."

Sharpening is not your problem.   And with out actually seeing the venue, no one here can tell you the settings.  But using what little info you stated, your settings are completely wrong, IMHO.

I am guessing you want a large DOF and you have very little availble light?  You will have to balance each to get the best outcome.  The 6D should be able to handle ISO 800 or possibly 1600 without too much grain.  You may be restricted to middle of the ramge f ratios.  Like f5.6 for instance.  Don't try to get too close.

And despite what has been said, PS can improve the finished image.  You need to use the adjustments in ACR 9 first and open in PS.  You need to know "how" to use PS and LR and not just move slidders!   But you already know that? One more accessary that will help you is a good tripod.

[Bryston3bsst]

I think we have all probably been in furniture showrooms. They are all pretty well lit, in fact, many now are using color corrected lighting. Last one I was in was just a few months ago and I remember thinking how fun it would be to do a model shoot in it.

I cannot imagine not being able to get excellent results under those condirions using a 6D.

[tawilsonphoto]

Was the camera Handheld, on a tripod..?

Remember, the shutter speed should be at least equal to the focal length you are using for sharper images if handheld.

And ISO 400 on the 6d is nothing. I routinely shoot that or higher if I am inside and cannot use flash in order to get my shutter speed up fast enough to keep the images sharp. Noise can be handeled in LR or PS. Motion blur cannot

and TTMartin is right, F/20 is overkill for interior...

I wonder if you didnt try and oversharpen to compensate for motion blur...?

[Bryston3bsst]

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@TTMartin wrote:

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@EvrenDumanoglu wrote:

My question is;

What should be my camera setting for interior. . .

Thank you

Evren Dumanoglu

Photographer 

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All I can say is Wow!

My suggestion would be to hire an actual photographer to train you.

Short of that, try the Green A+ intellegent auto mode.

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From what has been said in this discussion, the above quote is the correct answer.

Based on the initial settings the OP says he used and the susequent responses, forgive me but it seems to me that you have spent very little time actually using a camera despite the fact that you say you are a photographer.

[RobertTheFat]

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@Bryston3bsst wrote:

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@TTMartin wrote:

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@EvrenDumanoglu wrote:

My question is;

What should be my camera setting for interior. . .

Thank you

Evren Dumanoglu

Photographer 

---

All I can say is Wow!

My suggestion would be to hire an actual photographer to train you.

Short of that, try the Green A+ intellegent auto mode.

---

From what has been said in this discussion, the above quote is the correct answer.

Based on the initial settings the OP says he used and the susequent responses, forgive me but it seems to me that you have spent very little time actually using a camera despite the fact that you say you are a photographer.

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I agree. A photographer who asks newbie questions, then gets defensive when somebody notices, is probably a newbie. Which doesn't mean that the OP lacks the talent and ambition to succeed. But there's going to be a learning curve there, and admitting it is the first step in traversing the curve.

[ScottyP]

Shoot on a tripod. You have non-moving subjects (furniture) so you can do as long an exposure as you need if the camera is on a tripod. ISO 400 should not be too high at all.

The suggestion on sharpening mask is right on.

Also avoid having to boost exposure. Get exposure right in camera because boosting it in post processing adds grain/noise. Also avoid having to crop, which reduces fine detail and magnifies grain/noise. Frame it tight enough that you don't need to crop.

[TCampbell]

I am fond of saying that (1) if the subject is not moving (and let's hope that a furniture showroom isn't moving or you're probably having an earthquake) and also (2) if the camera is also not moving, then (3) there is always enough light to expose thes shot.

Do you own a tripod and a remote shuter release (remote shutter relase being optional, but it's what I prefer to use when I want to make sure the camera cannot move as I take a long exposure shot.)

f/20 will be diffraction limited.  See:  http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

Based on the sensor size and resolution of a 6D body, it will not be diffraction limited at or below f/11, but will be diffraction limited above f/11 (e.g. f/16, for example, would be diffraction limited.)  Someone may not notice it unless they inspect closely.  The higher you go, the more easily the image will appear to be soft due to the physics of diffraction limits.

Note that diffraction limits are based on laws of physics and the math to determine diffraction limits assume the lens is not a factor (e.g. assume the lens is perfect.)  In other words... the quality of the camera and lens are not factors here.

At f/11, you'd have TREMENDOUS depth of field even if using the 16-35mm lens at the 35mm focal length (which would provide the narrowest depth of field for any given focus distance).

Assuming a focus distance of 15, the Depth of Field at f/8 is 127' (everything from 8' through 135' away will appear to be in reasonably good focus.)  

At f/11 that DoF becomes infinite on the far end (the hyperfocal distance for a 35mm focal length at f/11 is 12' meaning... if you focus the lens to 12' away from the subject everything from 6' through infinity will be in focus.

There's no need to use f/20 and it will "soften" the quality of the image (which may result in you wanting to apply more sharpening and sharpening can generate noise as a side-effect of the sharpening process.)

If you are shooting at ISO 100 with the 6D and using RAW, you should have no noticeable noise.  If you do have "noise" then it would be helpful if you could post an unprocessed example (completely with all EXIF data still intact) so we can see what it is. I'm wondering if you might be noticing something else (e.g. JPEG compression artificacts can show up in shadowy areas of an image regardless of the ISO.)