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Calibration for EOS R6 Mark II / front focusing issue

EK25
Contributor

Hello everyone! I am very confused - and will be thankful for your patience! So I have been shooting with EOS R6 Mark II for over 1 year by now, and a couple of months ago started noticing unusual blur of human faces in my images - very often focus started falling in front of the actual AF point (e.g., AF on the eye, the actual focus - on the shoulder / a balloon the person is holding). I have been shootng with the same lens from the beginning - EF 50mm STM 1.8 lens with an adapter. So at first, I thought it might be the issue with the lens getting old(? since the problem appeared just recently) so I got a new EF 50mm 1.2 USM lens. Unfortunately, same problem persists. Someone recommended I should calibrate my lens (?), but I have just read that mirrorless cameras do not require calibration. I am really confused. Is calibrating a camera vs calibrating a lens a different thing? Or am I sort of always calibrating a "duo" (i.e. if I change something in my camera, does it mean that if I later get Rf lens it will have to be recalibrated again)? At this point what should my next steps be? Thank you so much in advance.      

31 REPLIES 31

Thank you for noting this! 

Confusing if you always shoot manual the why are you getting problems with AF ?

Is he shooting in Manual on the camera with the lens set to AF. Those are not the same thing.

-Demetrius
Bodies: EOS 5D Mark IV
Lenses: EF Holy Trinity, EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
Speedlites: 420EX, 470EX-AI, 550EX & 600EX II-RT

Ok great, the servo mode should rule out movement. One other thing, is your firmware up to date? That's going to make a huge difference too. Especially with adapters involved. I believe you might be having the same problem that I had recently. I was at a park & couldn't pull focus on a bird. I was shooting it slightly backlit, essentially in similar lighting to your photos. I took a deep dive on how focus works with these cameras. What I found was that there wasn't enough contrast for the camera to grab focus on. This was despite it appearing that way, but I manually focused & took a few shots. Upon review of those, I could see why there was an issue. The dim light just didn't create anything sharp to lock onto. Since it was midday, the infrared focus aid couldn't fire either. Even if it did, the dusk sunlight would have canceled out most of it. Going by what your focus is locked on to, I think this might be your issue as well. Which is why I recommended testing using the method described above. This way you can check k to see if it was just a contrast issue due to a combination of lighting & focus selection.

One other important thing to remember is the dual pixel auto focus on your camera may not work on an older lens. This feature gives you a great edge when it comes to focusing in these situations. It's another benefit of the RF lens system. I also did look up using the auto eye focus feature, which it appears you might be using. According to a bunch of online info, the older EF 50mm doesn't work great with the eye tracking feature. It's very slow & tends to hunt a lot. So if you are pushing the shutter button quickly, you may be getting focus just in front or behind the subject. Especially if it begins hunting. This is particularly true in low light, where it may not lock at all or continue to hunt. Your camera does have a feature where you can tell it to shoot within a certain percentage of focus lock. I don't believe it's usually 100% focus. There's a tiny bit of wiggle room, & at the aperture you're using, that would easily result in your focal plane being off. If you'd like more info, try asking chatGPT "how well does the Canon eos R work with a Canon EF adapter & nifty 50mm lens when using auto eye focus." It will give you the run down. To fix this, you might consider shooting on spot mode for concise focus without issues. I personally don't have great luck with the eye tracking myself. I use spot mode. Be sure to turn off servo mode so you can lock focus & then adjust your composition.

As for the setting you requested, I dont have my camera handy, but I looked it up. Try turning this on or off & see what works best. I believe default is on. Some people claim it works better off. So try both & see what you think. It might be situation dependent as well as affected by the lens you're using.

Menu → Custom Functions II: Autofocus (C.Fn II) → Item 4: "Lens drive when AF impossible"

 

Set it to 0: Continue focus search to enable hunting through the focus range when no subject is detected.

 

Set it to 1: Stop focus search to prevent the lens from hunting and conserve battery.

So how is it done?  By Canon?  And what are the tolerances before & after such calibration? 

JamesHarvey
Enthusiast

Did you update the camera firmware about the time when the issue appeared? 

Servo focus may be your issue: the wider short EF primes are notoriously slow to move focus.  Try using ONE SHOT FRONT button focus (focus start on shutter release button), and release the shutter as soon as the square goes green.  You might want to try using a wider AF area so you can see what the camera actually believes it has focused on. 

And anyway, if you are shooting a group photo like this, why don't you have sufficient DoF set so that they are all in focus?  BTW, the background bokeh in a couple of these looks a bit suspect, indicating that there may be an optical issue with the lens, and the completely OOF image perhaps indicates that too, but I generally believe the issue is slow AF, perhaps made more noticeable recently by either a change in your technique/AF settings, or camera FW. 

Good luck with finding & fixing this issue. 

All solid recommendations. It looks like he's using the auto eye focus too, which doesn't work well with older lenses. It really depends on which version of the EF 50mm he has. By the time he sends in the lens for calibration, he could have just bought the RF lens & had money left over. I don't think a lot of people realize those older nifty 50 lenses had three versions. They just buy the cheapest one, which tends to have the older & much slower focus motors.

He could also set his "lens release on focus" to 100% so it won't shoot without a solid focus lock. Shooting in a brightly lit room on one shot with spot focus would likely show immediately if it's a lens issue or simply hardware limitations & settings.

K_ozdragon
Contributor

Just a heads up, as I re-read your post, but the EF 50mm 1.2 is also known for extremely soft images & poor focusing performance. Even when stopped down, it's not a sharp lens. It was a hyge trade-off for low light performance vs sharpness for those taking photos in dark conditions.

This is very apparent when looking at the newer RF 50mm 1.2. It's a beast & twice as heavy as the EF version. It is known for crisp photos though, even when wide open.

For R6 II it will be done in the service software Canon has. 

The AF adjustment for R6 looks the same as microadjustment for 6D with wide angle and tele. 

Sorry for such a belated response, but I absolutely appreciate your detailed explanation - it is very helpful! I am upgrading to an Rf lens, hopefully...  

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