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6D gave me really blurry photos?

Sophós
Apprentice

Hello everyone.

I'm posting here hoping to find someone who can help me.

I recently got a 6D mark 2 to shoot my videos and it was all fine. Last night I was asked to take some photos during a meeting but I immediatly saw the lack of quality in all of them. I can't explain this absence of details even in the darkest enviroment or with the slowest shutter...

 

 

IMG_7790b.jpg

139 REPLIES 139

Lol… I feel vindicated!  I definitely have “buyers remorse” with the Canon Mark II 6D, especially for the price I paid.  Huge disapppointment.  

it's not but thanks for being extremely unhelpful once again.

TTMartin
Authority
Authority

The blurry parts of this photo are because they are out of the depth of focus. A full frame camera with a large aperture (small f/number) has a very shallow depth of field. The camera is focused on the person's ear. The left hand and watch on the wrist as well as the left knee are in front of the depth of focus so are blurry. The right knee is on the same plane as the ear so it is in focus. The back corner of the glasses, right shoulder and arm are behind the depth of focus and are starting to become blurry. Please Google 'Depth of Field' for more information.

It is not “blurry”. It is weird random spots that are blotchy, like a smudge, like a watercolor effect. THAT is the issue.

If you are confident that you know the answer, then can you tell us why there are blotchy smudgy spots instead of blurry spots, which would be a clear indication of a depth of field issue?  And by the way, when I do have a depth of field issue, they do not occur in the same areas of the image that is blotches in smudges are appearing.  Again, they are smudgy marks, like a watercolor effect.  I’ve never had a watercolor effect when using my other camera. It is only with this Mark II 6D camera.  And the other folks who’ve chimed in are describing the same exact issue.

Specify what specific part of the photo that you think has a blotchy smudge. Keep in mind the further the out of the depth of focus the more distorted something becomes. That is why the left little finger looks distorted. 

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

I totally agree with TTM. It is a DOF issue, or at least part of the problem. Consider a 135mm lens at f4.5 and a shooting from subject distance of around 3 or four feet has a DOF of only an inch or two. The second part and I am not being rude only trying to help resolve this is, "...I can’t even tell you what it was I adjusted in my camera, because I tweaked all sorts of stuff....".

Best go would be a reset of the camera to default settings and learning how to use a DOF calculator. Andrea you have to get back to a known starting point otherwise you are just chasing your tail.

I didn't go back and relive all the comments but if I didn't suggest this in an earlier reply here is what you need to do.

After you fully reset your camera, clear all settings and all custom settings, then set it to P mode, ISO 200, lens in AF mode and camera in One Shot mode not, never, Ai-Servo mode. WB set to daylight. Use your 135mm lens and even any others you might have and go outside on a nice sunny day and do some test shots. Everything trees, buildings animals, people, everything in general. Now check out your result if they are good the gear is good. If they are not, your camera and any lens needs to go to Canon for service. Kiddo it is as simple as that and doing the little test I outlined will tell the tale one way or the other.

 

Andrea the full reset of the camera is critical make sure you do it first and leave the camera in Canon default settings and just use P mode and One Shhot.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

I totally agree with TTM. It is a DOF issue, or at least part of the problem. Consider a 135mm lens at f4.5 and a shooting from subject distance of around 3 or four feet has a DOF of only an inch or two. The second part and I am not being rude only trying to help resolve this is, "...I can’t even tell you what it was I adjusted in my camera, because I tweaked all sorts of stuff....".

Best go would be a reset of the camera to default settings and learning how to use a DOF calculator. Andrea you have to get back to a known starting point otherwise you are just chasing your tail.

I didn't go back and relive all the comments but if I didn't suggest this in an earlier reply here is what you need to do.

After you fully reset your camera, clear all settings and all custom settings, then set it to P mode, ISO 200, lens in AF mode and camera in One Shot mode not, never, Ai-Servo mode. WB set to daylight. Use your 135mm lens and even any others you might have and go outside on a nice sunny day and do some test shots. Everything trees, buildings animals, people, everything in general. Now check out your result if they are good the gear is good. If they are not, your camera and any lens needs to go to Canon for service. Kiddo it is as simple as that and doing the little test I outlined will tell the tale one way or the other.

 

Andrea the full reset of the camera is critical make sure you do it first and leave the camera in Canon default settings and just use P mode and One Shhot.


This is a 5 1/2 year old zombie thread. ~130 postings. AndreaW stated in 2020 that she abandoned her 6DMkII. Three years later she is back again. None of the people that claimed to have problems ever posted a SOOC file that others could evaluate without the editing that they applied. Gotta wonder. 

John Hoffman
Conway, NH

1D X Mark III, M200, Many lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, Lr Classic

“ This is a 5 1/2 year old zombie thread. ~130 postings. AndreaW stated in 2020 that she abandoned her 6DMkII. Three years later she is back again. None of the people that claimed to have problems ever posted a SOOC file that others could evaluate without the editing that they applied. Gotta wonder.

I used to make a living by making observations and analyzing the data.

There were a handful a threads back then where other members would jump in and start piling onto the conversation.  “Me, too!”  Party crashers.

In and of itself, that is not unusual. The problems arise when you ask people to post a sample of their issue and they are reluctant to do it.  Even that, in and of itself is not unusual.

The real problem is when you start noticing the OP and the party crashers are not exactly strangers.  There was one example of the OP initially posted images from a club, and later posted a link to more images with the same issue.  That is not unusual, either.

Then the party crashers arrived.  They also posted example photos taken inside of night clubs.  And that is when I noticed that one of the party crashers had posted an image of the issue.  It contained people dressed exactly the same as one of the images the OP had posted at the link.  The OP quickly removed the photo from link when I called them out on it.

I think this thread was an example of that.. It happened a handful of times over the course of a few months.  I think the horde came from some group on a social media site.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

Thank you for the suggestions.  About a year ago, I adjusted various settings in my camera that I thought would help to correct the problem.  It helped quite a bit to resolve the issue, but not completely.  Now, instead of every photo that is taken in low light having blotches/fuzziness all over it, once in a while that effect will show up in a few photos.  As a result, I try to avoid using that camera in low-lit environments, because it is too unreliable for important shoots.

I wish I kept some of the photos that demonstrate the issue so that you can see what I am talking about.  Unfortunately, I deleted them.  (At the time, I saw no reason to hang on to poor quality photos.)

Thanks again.

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

I know and agree. I thought it might do some good if someone else stumbled on it 

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
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