11-14-2015 03:54 PM - edited 11-14-2015 03:54 PM
Hello, how are you?
I have Canon EOS 550D, and I want to make pictures of people in the gym, when they are doing some exercise or just posing. So can someone recomend me which lens should I buy? And that it will be really great quality of picture.
Thank you,
Matevz
Solved! Go to Solution.
11-15-2015 08:40 AM
@Matevž wrote:Hello, how are you?
I have Canon EOS 550D, and I want to make pictures of people in the gym, when they are doing some exercise or just posing. So can someone recomend me which lens should I buy? And that it will be really great quality of picture.
Thank you,
Matevz
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM or the EF 85mm f/1.8.
Do not bother with the EF 50mm f1.8 II it is an older lens with slow unreliable focus.
I like the EF 85mm f/1.8 as a gymnasium lens because it has a little more reach than the EF 50mm f1.8 STM. However the EF 50mm f/1.8 STM is one of Canon's latest lenses, it has fast accurate focus and good image quality at a price that can't be beat. So you might want to start with it, and plan on doing some cropping initially, and then later supplement it with a longer prime like the EF 85mm f/1.8 or the EF 100mm f/2.
11-15-2015 08:41 AM - edited 11-15-2015 08:42 AM
"can you recomend me something for budget 300 eur?"
No, I can't. Unlesss you don't want a quality photo. Do you want a zoom lens? Are you willing to walk and move about? All around your subjects? If, yes, get the Nifty Fifty Canon ef 50mm f1.8 prime lens.
11-15-2015 11:35 AM
Agree with the 50mm f/1.8 STM. It is only $125.00 US. Gets more light into the camera. Incredible bang for the buck.
11-23-2015 09:00 AM
If you are "only" going as wide as f/2.8 and not all the way to f/1.8, I would consider the EF-s 17-55 f/2.8. Pick one up used for about $500 to $600 if you look.
I am not familiar with the pancake 24mm but if cheap it may be a good idea.
Another way to get more light on the subject is, well, to put more light on the subject. If you have time to set it up, you can get multiple speedlite flashes and light stands and trigger them together off-camera using one of several methods, and you can make your own light.
11-23-2015 09:14 AM
@ScottyP wrote:If you are "only" going as wide as f/2.8 and not all the way to f/1.8, I would consider the EF-s 17-55 f/2.8. Pick one up used for about $500 to $600 if you look.
I am not familiar with the pancake 24mm but if cheap it may be a good idea.
24mm is an odd focal length for an EF-S lens: not quite "normal" and not quite a wide-angle. 24mm is a wide-angle on a full-frame camera, but an EF-S lens won't work on your eventual 5D or 6D. I'd pass on that one, I think.
11-23-2015 09:30 AM
The "24mm is an odd focal length for an EF-S lens:"
It is an odd lens, period!
11-23-2015 03:08 PM - edited 11-23-2015 03:09 PM
@ScottyP wrote:If you are "only" going as wide as f/2.8 and not all the way to f/1.8, I would consider the EF-s 17-55 f/2.8. Pick one up used for about $500 to $600 if you look.
I am not familiar with the pancake 24mm but if cheap it may be a good idea.
Another way to get more light on the subject is, well, to put more light on the subject. If you have time to set it up, you can get multiple speedlite flashes and light stands and trigger them together off-camera using one of several methods, and you can make your own light.
The EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM pancake is the APS-C version of the popular full frame EF 40mm f2.8 STM pancake. For its $130 price it is a very good value for someone who wants a near normal field of view prime lens.
Keep in mind a 50mm lens is not a true full frame normal field of view. Normal field of view is equal to the diagonal dimension of the sensor. 43.1mm for a full frame sensor and 26.8mm for a Canon APS-C sensor.
11-23-2015 05:18 PM
@TTMartin wrote:
@ScottyP wrote:If you are "only" going as wide as f/2.8 and not all the way to f/1.8, I would consider the EF-s 17-55 f/2.8. Pick one up used for about $500 to $600 if you look.
I am not familiar with the pancake 24mm but if cheap it may be a good idea.
Another way to get more light on the subject is, well, to put more light on the subject. If you have time to set it up, you can get multiple speedlite flashes and light stands and trigger them together off-camera using one of several methods, and you can make your own light.
The EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM pancake is the APS-C version of the popular full frame EF 40mm f2.8 STM pancake. For its $130 price it is a very good value for someone who wants a near normal field of view prime lens.
Keep in mind a 50mm lens is not a true full frame normal field of view. Normal field of view is equal to the diagonal dimension of the sensor. 43.1mm for a full frame sensor and 26.8mm for a Canon APS-C sensor.
Well, that;s one I haven't heard before, and frankly it sounds like an approximation designed to simplify matters for the masses. I had always understood (I thought) that "normal" was based on the horizontal angle subtended by the average human eye and that it worked out to about 33, not 26, mm for an APS-C lens. Have they changed it, or was I dreaming, or what?
11-23-2015 05:48 PM
Ooh... so this turns out to be not so simple to define -- it turns out everything runs afoul on the definition of an "average human eye". When you try to look up that definition... you'll find all kinds of answers (been there. done that.)
You'll get definitions based on the eye's ability to "look around" vs. what it can see looking straight ahead. You'll get definitions based on both eyes. You'll get definitions that your ability to notice peripheral movement from the SIDE is much better than your ability to notice peripheral movement from, say, above (something that wasn't necessary for us to evolve because there are many birds that can pick us up and carry us away for food -- I suppose.)
Then I watched Brain Games (it's still on Netflix) and they had a whole episode on how the eye really works. It turns out absolutely nothing like you might imagine. What you see... or rather what you think you see... is a composite image that's been assembled in your brain based on your eye having had an opportunity to "look around". Your ability to see something sharp only exists in a rather tight area directly in front of your eye and if you get very far away from that your eye is very good at noticing that "something" is there, but it's ability to resolve what it is is rather lousy. They proved this to test subjects by having them stare at a target while they swapped people standing off to the sides of the target who were clearly "in" the field of vision but not so well that the person be tested could tell if the person was even a boy vs. a girl (most test subjects performed very poorly.) You ARE quite good at noticing "movement" in your extreme periphery ... but you can't tell what the movement is caused by.
You can try this yourself. Looking at this message thread, look at just one word in any sentence, any paragraph... make sure your eye STAYS focused on that word. Now... can you actually resolve fine detail in the letters a word immediately next to the word you are looking at? I am able to look at a possibly two short words or one long word and resolve it fine detail... beyond that I must let my eyeball move to see the detail.
Consequently, your eyeball scans the scene and your brain is basically building a mosaic image in your head of what it thinks it sees -- and a clever magician exploits that weakness for all it's worth and can take your money all day long if you put them to the test.
ANYWAY... from all the digging I did back when I was trying to find this stuff... the average human eye seemed to be expected to be able to observe a field of view which might be between 40º and 50º and of view depending on the person (even though the Brain Games shows explain that it's not even that good). If you use a 27mm lens on an APS-C camera (which has roughly a 27mm diagonal) you end up with about a 45º diagonal angle of view -- which pretty much fits the average human eye -- whatever that is.
11-23-2015 06:26 PM - edited 11-24-2015 07:42 AM
Normal lens From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
In photography and cinematography, a normal lens is a lens that reproduces a field of view that generally looks "natural" to a human observer under normal viewing conditions, as compared with lenses with longer or shorter focal lengths which produce an expanded or contracted field of view that distorts the perspective when viewed from a normal viewing distance. Lenses of shorter focal length are called wide-angle lenses, while longer-focal-length lenses are referred to as long-focus lenses (with the most common of that type being the telephoto lenses).
For still photography, a lens with a focal length about equal to the diagonal size of the film or sensor format is considered to be a normal lens; its angle of view is similar to the angle subtended by a large-enough print viewed at a typical viewing distance equal to the print diagonal; this angle of view is about 53° diagonally.*
*53 degrees diaginal is aproximately the 45 degrees wide Tim mentioned above on a 2X3 sensor. Canon APS-C (horizontal) angle of view for a 27mm lens: 2*arctan(22.5/(27*2))=0.78958 rad is approximately equal to 45 degrees.
11-24-2015 05:58 AM - edited 11-24-2015 06:11 AM
There are two articles on petapixel.com that cover the subject pretty well.
The first is an article by Roger Cicala of lensrental.com called 'The Camera Versus the Human Eye'
The second is by Carlton Bassett called 'A Mathematical Look at Focal Length and Crop Factor'
03-11-2016 12:16 PM
When all is said and done, more is said than done! Sounds like you all do more reading than doing! Get your experiences out in the field. Not just form the CRT.
03-11-2016 08:47 AM
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