02-20-2014 01:06 AM - edited 02-20-2014 01:38 AM
Solved! Go to Solution.
02-20-2014 12:41 PM - edited 02-20-2014 02:11 PM
Often for landscape photography people want to use a wide angle lens. Not always, there aren't any rules that say you can't use something else. I'm just sayin' it's typically the first thing that comes to mind
One of the best wide angles you can get for use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an "L" but that doesn't matter.
I suspect what you have been told about using an L-series lens is due to your camera's crop factor, as several other responses have suggested. L-series will work just fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are "full frame" designs, by definition. As a result, none of the L's will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So when people hear "landscape", they suggest something other than an L-series.
You have four different stated purposes: landscape, sports, low light and portraiture. The whole point of a DSLR such as your T3i is to be able to interchange lenses, to be able to adapt the camera for use in different situations. So I would suggest not to try to do it all with one lens, but to look at several lenses (some of which are Ls), which ultimately should give you better results. For example....
Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.
Sports: 70-200/4, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8, 70-200/2.8L IS II, 100-400L IS, 300/4L IS.
Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.
Portraiture (candid): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.
Portraiture (studio): EF-S 15-85 IS, EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS , 24-70/2.8L II.
Portraiture (environmental): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.
General purpose "walk-around" lens: EF-S 15-85 IS... or, depending upon what other lenses you get, EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS, or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70/4L IS, 24-70/2.8L II.
There are lots of different ways to put together a lens kit. For example, maybe you just don't need as wide a view as the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead you might choose the EF-S 15-85mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraiture.
A "minimal" kit I often carry around with a crop camera is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w/1.4X teleconverter, and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.
When I'm shooting sports, which I mostly do with crop sensor cameras, I usually carry: 10-22mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are 70-200/2.8 IS and 300/4 IS. (In certain situations I also use 70-200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS.)
For portraiture with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.
Your camera can use all EF-S and EF lenses, including all L-series. But just because a lens will fit and work doesn't mean it's the best choice for your purposes. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be wasteful.... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... yet not really give you any better performance, maybe even give less. For example, a 16-35/2.8L II is a wonderful lens on a FF camera, but makes little sense to buy for use on a crop camera. For less money you can either get a lens that's truly wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers slightly wider range of focal lengths and has IS (EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS).
Depth of field actually is not directly effected by different camera sensor sizes. What changes depth of field are: lens focal length, lens aperture, and distance to subject. If you are looking for shallow depth of field (blurring down a background for a portrait, for example), you need a large aperture and longer focal length... and the closer you are to the subject the more shallow depth of field will be. If, on the other hand, you want a lot of depth of field ( for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length.... and the farther you are from the subject (within reason), the deeper depth of field will be.
Now where crop sensor vs full frame does come into effect is that in order to get the same subject framing with a crop sensor we need to stand farther away with any given focal length, or if shooting from the same distance will use a shorter focal length. In either case, the result is "less" depth of field, but it is an indirect result of the different sensor size.
Have fun shopping and learning your new camera!
***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM
10-27-2016 11:07 AM
What exactly do they do? What are the shooting conditiond and settings on the camera?The more details you can give the better.
10-27-2016 11:12 AM - edited 10-27-2016 11:13 AM
I have tried ALL modes on the SL1, even Manual, which is how I shoot all the time. The 17-40mm, 24-105mm and 100mm Macro the camera can operate the AF on the lens, but cannot seem to get an accurate focus lock on a subject in any kind of light. We even tested in very bright sunlight during the summer, same issue. If we switch the lens to manual AF then we can get focus and take photos no problem. The 100-400mm, the SL1's cannot even operate the AF, you press the shutter halfway and no AF points light up and no AF movement out of the lens at all.
Again, ALL of these L lenses work fine on all of my Full Frame bodies and they also worked on the T3i when I had one of them a couple of years ago, but none of them work on the SL1. And I know everyone is trying to help, but I am not a noob, I have been shooting both film and digital over 25 years.
10-27-2016 11:16 AM
"If we switch the lens to manual AF then we can get focus ..."
You mean you switch to MF and you manually focus the lens? Or you switch to MF and then the SL-1 works in auto focus?
10-27-2016 11:25 AM
No, I should have been more clear. If I put any of the lenses in MF, and focus manually, I can get good focus and make an image, no problem.
Also of note, we have around 8 of the EF "Gold Band" USM lenses and ALL of them work perfectly on the SL1's, that's why maybe I thought there was something slightly different on the L lenses AF system.
10-27-2016 11:12 AM
Hi liamphotography!
We checked with our technical support team, and they don't know of any reason your lenses shouldn't work with your SL1, unless the lens isn't mounted properly or you're using an extender.
If you've verified that your 100-400 is mounted properly to your girlfriend's SL1, and the camera is reading the lens properly (you're getting aperture values), then we'd suggest reaching back out to our US-based support team at 1-800-OK-CANON (800-652-2666) for some further troubleshooting so we can get to the bottom of this!
10-27-2016 11:12 AM
@liamphotography wrote:No idea, but I doubt it's the same one as the SL1 I have not read everything on the Mark IV, but the article I read earlier said only the SL1, T5i and T6i had this new Hybrid system.
I'm pretty sure "L" lenses work on the T5i and T6i. The AF Hybrid II system is also in the EOS M3. I'll test it later.
10-27-2016 11:14 AM
Cool, I appreciate the feedback, I am at a loss as well as to why they don't work on the SL1. I don't know anyone with a T5i or T6i so I have no method to test.
10-27-2016 11:17 AM
Our support team has all of the gear you've listed and can test it with you on the phone to ensure compatibility.
10-27-2016 10:41 AM
"Funny as I called Canon this morning ....."
One or the other of you misunderstood the question.
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