12-06-2019
03:21 PM
- last edited on
10-12-2024
09:39 AM
by
Danny
I am using a Canon EOS Rebel SL2 with a Canon EF-S18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens. Is there an easy way to set the focus on infinity when I'm using MF mode on the lens? I just want to set it and forget it.
Solved! Go to Solution.
12-10-2019 06:36 AM
@RobertTheFat wrote:I think you meant to say, "A red light works only in an ortho darkroom."
Ah, but you can use a red light when processing colour prints, I know that because they do it in films and on TV
12-10-2019 10:40 AM
Today we use mostly B&W panchromatic films but we still have orthochromatic film.
12-10-2019 10:43 AM
" I don't know about you, but it sure reminds me of how old I am."
I corrected my screw up Robert, thanx for the eagle eye! This happens because we are getting old, very old indeed. I still have my stone tools to tap out photos on sandstone and paint for cave walls. Talk about poor lighting conditions!
12-10-2019 11:07 AM
@Ray-uk wrote:
@RobertTheFat wrote:I think you meant to say, "A red light works only in an ortho darkroom."
Ah, but you can use a red light when processing colour prints, I know that because they do it in films and on TV
My father had a safelight that consisted of a wooden box with an orange glass panel on one side. I don't think I knew what it was designed for, but I used it when making B&W prints. It never caused a problem that I can recall. I tried to keep it as far as possible from the enlarger; but my "darkroom" doubled as a coat closet, so my options were limited.
12-10-2019 02:18 PM
@RobertTheFat wrote:
@Ray-uk wrote:
@RobertTheFat wrote:I think you meant to say, "A red light works only in an ortho darkroom."
Ah, but you can use a red light when processing colour prints, I know that because they do it in films and on TV
My father had a safelight that consisted of a wooden box with an orange glass panel on one side. I don't think I knew what it was designed for, but I used it when making B&W prints. It never caused a problem that I can recall. I tried to keep it as far as possible from the enlarger; but my "darkroom" doubled as a coat closet, so my options were limited.
What does all of this red dot / red light discussion have to do with my original question? Why don't you guys start your own thread about red dots and red lights?
12-10-2019 02:21 PM
It has to do with focusing on the sky at night.
12-10-2019 04:51 PM
Yes it does just expanded info.
12-15-2019 01:34 AM
@Waddizzle wrote:
@wchettel wrote:
@ebiggs1 wrote:"...Canon EF-S18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens."
Some lenses do not do a very good job at night sky photography and you have one that doesn't. If you really want to get good shots of the sky look for a more suitable lens for that purpose.
Got any suggestions for a more suitable lens? I also have a Canon EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 III lens that came with my kit.
Your 18-35mm can do a perfectly satisfactory job of capturing landscape shots with the Milky Way in the sky. All you need is [a] sturdy tripod that won't wiggle in a breeze, and maybe a wired remote shutter release. The shutter delay built into the camera works, [too], instead of buying a remote.
...
Good luck.
Just curious? Did you mean to say my 18-135mm lens?
12-15-2019 07:19 AM
Yes, that is a typo. Your 18-135mm can do a more than adequate job set to 18mm.
12-15-2019 10:50 AM
Here is why it isn't the best choice for night sky photography the other don't seem to know about or understand.
Distortion is one issue, that is to be expected from a zoom lens of this range and type. It is acceptable for average daytime snapshots but not so much for night sky work. This lens also vignettes the corners which means it illuminates the edges of the frame less brightly as the center of the frame. Again not a big deal for normal photography. Lastly it suffer from CA which again is more sever at the corners and is worse at 18mm. CA becomes pretty good above 18mm but 18mm is what you want. Some of this can be corrected in software like PS/LR and done so nicely for day time work. However, the stars will be comas or curves instead of dots and have odd coloring for night sky work.
I know of no serious night sky photographer that uses a longer zoom lens for good night sky work. Here the prime lenses rule. And fully manual primes are a real good idea. If you just want a night sky shot and don't care if it is really high IQ, shoot away. It will take a picture!
A lens like the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC Lens, fully manual, which is about $250 bucks is a much better choice, IMHO, of course. There are others too but that one is a best buy.
02/20/2025: New firmware updates are available.
RF70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM Z - Version 1.0.6
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RF50mm F1.4 L VCM - Version 1.0.2
RF24mm F1.4 L VCM - Version 1.0.3
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