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EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM - Best Way To Set Focus on Infinity?

wchettel
Enthusiast

I am using a Canon EOS Rebel SL2 with a Canon EF-S18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens. Is there an easy way to set the focus on infinity when I'm using MF mode on the lens? I just want to set it and forget it.

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Walter
in Davie, FL
51 REPLIES 51


@RobertTheFat wrote:


I think you meant to say, "A red light works only in an ortho darkroom."

 


Ah, but you can use a red light when processing colour prints, I know that because they do it in films and on TV Smiley LOL

Today we use mostly B&W panchromatic films but we still have orthochromatic film.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

" I don't know about you, but it sure reminds me of how old I am."

 

I corrected my screw up Robert, thanx for the eagle eye!  This happens because we are getting old, very old indeed. Smiley Wink  I still have my stone tools to tap out photos on sandstone and paint for cave walls.  Talk about poor lighting conditions!

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.


@Ray-uk wrote:

@RobertTheFat wrote:


I think you meant to say, "A red light works only in an ortho darkroom."

 


Ah, but you can use a red light when processing colour prints, I know that because they do it in films and on TV Smiley LOL


My father had a safelight that consisted of a wooden box with an orange glass panel on one side. I don't think I knew what it was designed for, but I used it when making B&W prints. It never caused a problem that I can recall. I tried to keep it as far as possible from the enlarger; but my "darkroom" doubled as a coat closet, so my options were limited.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA


@RobertTheFat wrote:

@Ray-uk wrote:

@RobertTheFat wrote:


I think you meant to say, "A red light works only in an ortho darkroom."

 


Ah, but you can use a red light when processing colour prints, I know that because they do it in films and on TV Smiley LOL


My father had a safelight that consisted of a wooden box with an orange glass panel on one side. I don't think I knew what it was designed for, but I used it when making B&W prints. It never caused a problem that I can recall. I tried to keep it as far as possible from the enlarger; but my "darkroom" doubled as a coat closet, so my options were limited.


What does all of this red dot / red light discussion have to do with my original question? Why don't you guys start your own thread about red dots and red lights? Smiley Indifferent

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Walter
in Davie, FL

It has to do with focusing on the sky at night.

Yes it does just expanded info. Smiley Happy

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.


@Waddizzle wrote:

@wchettel wrote:

@ebiggs1 wrote:

"...Canon EF-S18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM lens."

 

Some lenses do not do a very good job at night sky photography and you have one that doesn't. If you really want to get good shots of the sky look for a more suitable lens for that purpose.


Got any suggestions for a more suitable lens? I also have a Canon EF 75-300mm F4-5.6 III lens that came with my kit.


Your 18-35mm can do a perfectly satisfactory job of capturing landscape shots with the Milky Way in the sky.  All you need is [a] sturdy tripod that won't wiggle in a breeze, and maybe a wired remote shutter release.  The shutter delay built into the camera works, [too], instead of buying a remote.

...

Good luck.


Just curious? Did you mean to say my 18-135mm lens?

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Walter
in Davie, FL

Yes, that is a typo.  Your 18-135mm can do a more than adequate job set to 18mm.

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."

Here is why it isn't the best choice for night sky photography the other don't seem to know about or understand.

Distortion is one issue, that is to be expected from a zoom lens of this range and type.  It is acceptable for average daytime snapshots but not so much for night sky work.  This lens also vignettes the corners which means it illuminates the edges of the frame less brightly as the center of the frame.  Again not a big deal for normal photography.  Lastly it suffer from CA which again is more sever at the corners and is worse at 18mm. CA becomes pretty good above 18mm but 18mm is what you want.  Some of this can be corrected in software like PS/LR and done so nicely for day time work. However, the stars will be comas or curves instead of dots and have odd coloring for night sky work.

 

I know of no serious night sky photographer that uses a longer zoom lens for good night sky work.  Here the prime lenses rule. And fully manual primes are a real good idea. If you just want a night sky shot and don't care if it is really high IQ, shoot away. It will take a picture!

 

A lens like the Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC Lens, fully manual, which is about $250 bucks is a much better choice, IMHO, of course. There are others too but that one is a best buy.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.
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