'P' Mode - Where to Start

[AuntFrahn]

There are so many options available on this camera that is overwhelming which is why I have been going with AUTO for so long on my cameras.

However, in an attempt to learn how to use my camera better, I have decided to start with Program mode. The list of options is daunting, so I thought about starting with one to get comfortable with it.

For example, if I work on ISO or F stop or ........ which one should I start with? This is just for practice to get a feel for what the camera can do for me. I want to be able to look at a subject like a Mexican Bird of Paradise blossom and know fairly quickly what the ISO or whichever setting should be depending on available lighting, etc.

Not sure if I worded it right. I know I need to think of several different things for each picture. I'd just like to start with one.

Thanks for your help.

[diverhank · Accepted solution]

In my opinion, P mode is just like Auto mode...you don't really gain that much...While P mode allows you to alter things to suit your situation better but it's overcomplicated.

You are better off using either Av mode or Tv mode to start out with.  Well start out with Av mode first.  You can either do this with Auto ISO or manual ISO.  The most important thing is you need to understand the relationship between the photography triangle - Av, Tv and ISO.  Also you need to understand how to use exposure compensation to account for the camera metering limitations (it takes average so if the background is too dark, makes the faces looks too bright and vice versa, makes the faces look too dark when the background is too bright).   Once you are comfortable with these two modes, you can switch over to Manual mode.  You will find that it's easier than one would think.

You can search youtube for a multitude of excellent videos discussing the triangle - even I have a couple of videos...you can search for diverhank or Hien Tongho (mine is pretty boring though).

It depends on the camera models but I think most will show you on the LCD exactly what it will look like in the final picture.  So even when you are in total manual mode (M), you will be able to see the effects of changing the 3 factors Av, Tv and ISO and that makes it easier to use than some other modes (with the exception of depth of field - the display doesn't do it so well).  You should spend about an hour with just Manual mode and learn to change the 3 factors...you will be surprised how easy and effective it is using M mode.

[ScottyP]

Diverhank is right, but it need not seem scary or complicated.  

I suggest you go go to google videos or YouTube and look up "tutorial exposure triangle".  Watch about 3 of these 5 minute tutorials and you will have the basic idea of the EXPOSURE TRIANGLE and you won't need the crutch of P mode. You will be comfortable in AV or TV modes. 

[AuntFrahn]

Even though I marked Hank's as the solution, each of these answers helped a lot with the total solution.

Thank you ScottyP for taking the time to add to the first response.

[AuntFrahn]

I just looked at the first video: Photography Basics Speed, Aperture, ISO

This is helpful; the histogram is something I will use.
Thanks

[kvbarkley]

It depends what you want.

If you just want a good picture of the blossom and don't care about anything else, just use P, and don't worry.

If you want to make the background blurry, you need Av mode to set the smallest Aperture your camera can do, but for a small sensor camera it might not matter much.

For ISO, generally you want the smallest you can get away with. Yesterday I was shooting cranes in flight with my very heavy Tamron 150-600. The camera wanted a shutter speed of about 800, which I thought was a bit to slow to get sharp pictures, so I boosted the ISO from 400 to 1600 and the shutter speed went to 1250 - which turned out to be fine.

[cicopo]

See if this helps explain the basics.  

http://www.canonoutsideofauto.ca/

[AuntFrahn]

Heading to the link right now.

Thanks for your help, cicopo

[AuntFrahn]

Wow! More valuable information!

Thank you so much kvbarkely for taking the time to respond.

I took a few photos this morning of a subject I really liked, but I have a feeling when I download them I might be disappointed. 

After reading and practicing these hints, I hope to get better results.

Thank you again

[AuntFrahn]

This is the shot I decided to test with this morning before reading your responses.

I could zoom in and get more of the rabbit, but I wanted the whole scene as if the rabbit had its own little hideaway.

When I look at the photo [in iPhoto on my Mac] I can zoom in about midway and the rabbit is still prett sharp. After that it gets grainy. 

But the shots I took zooming in with the camera to the rabbit and losing the foliage, were better when I zoomed in using iPhoto. I get that.

From the info window, the settings are: 3.8-247.0mm; AWB; 4608 X 3456; 7.2 MB; ISO 100; 39.6mm; 0EV; f5.6; 1/320. 

I think that 3.8-247.0mm must define the camera, because every photo has that in the info window.

Since I can reproduce this shot pretty much with the rabbits being pretty abundant, I might use your suggestions  and see what happens.  Thanks again