Slower Glass on R6M2

[MrWalleye73]

Good Morning,

As I'm still on my conversion journey into mirrorless/digital, I was thinking to myself. This camera is great. It does a lot of things I couldn't imagine until I got my hands on one. Sometimes I still think, why didn't the film advance?? 😁 Regarding indoor photography, would a slower lens, say like a 24-105 F4L be able to handle indoors fairly well? I've reads a lot online reagrding the newer full frame sensors being more capable in lower light (general summation). I'm not thinking of dark/poorly lit indoors, but indoors with artificial lighting at night and such. Sorry if it's a little vague or specific. But for carrying a 1 lens type of situation. If I can try one, I will. 

Thanks for all thoughts!

Chris

[shadowsports · Accepted solution]

Greetings ,

An f4 lens indoors without a flash will work in many, but not all situations.  It really depends on the amount of ambient light and illumination of your subject.

You can slow the shutter down and crank up your ISO a bit, but having that additional stop of light f2.8 or more Is often helpful. 

Granted I am more of a have it and not need it guy than gosh I wish I had a faster lens.  Again, though, you can do fairly well with f4, but given the choice, I'd want to have something faster in my back pocket.

[March411 · Accepted solution]

The fixed aperture @ f4 is going work work admirably in indoor conditions depending on the lighting. You may still have some noise that you will need to resolve in post. Fortunately the R6 MkII is a good body to process images in low light. 

If it's possible and in the budget a faster f2.8 will help reduce the noise and the AF may be a bit quicker with the additional available light.

Its a tough decision because jumping to a f2.8 like the RF70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM or even the RF24-105mm F2.8 L IS USM comes with a significant price bump. I held off and put some money away to grab the RF70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM for indoor sports and have been extremely pleased.

[MrWalleye73]

Thanks Rick/Marc, 

Yeah the $$$ difference is big. I know good glass is what it's all about but yikes!!  😲 I knew this going in.... I can use a flash if really needed, but rather not. Flash has its time and place, but i don't want it to be a regular thing I'd have to use. I'm on the road and away from my camera, and musing about my older lens collection and some of my RF "wants". I have an EF 16-35 F4L I will try out when I get home, and indoors, to get a feel of what F4 will do for me. Outdoors and adapted, it worked well on the first try.

And I mis-spelled regarding in my initial post...🙄

Thanks again for your time and thoughts, I know there isn't one right or definte answer to my question, just observations and experiences. 

Chris

[March411]

Sorry for the redundancy Rick I must have been typing while you hit reply.

Chris the EF16-35 f4 is a nice lens so it should give you a decent idea of what the system can do indoors. The challenge is the variable lighting. Some of the gymnasiums I shoot in the lighting is outstanding others.....not so much. Try to find one of those indoor spaces that fit into the "not so much" category for your tests so you know where you stand and in the better lighting you know you will be golden. 

[shadowsports]

Marc,

Your comments and perspective are always welcome.

[MrWalleye73]

Marc, Great suggestion regarding the test. I will try the church indoors on Sunday in various locations where the light varies immensely. I know I can get away with a bit more with these newer cameras than I would have thought possible years ago. Trial and error at this point for me. 

Stay cool today, we are gonna be steaming in NE Illinois!

[p4pictures · Accepted solution]

All things considered an f/2.8 lens lets one more stop of light in to the camera than an f/4 lens. You can use that 1-stop in three different ways…

• A 1-stop faster shutter speed, great if you have a moving subject. 1/125th is better than 1/60th for getting sharper shots of people 
• A 1-stop faster aperture, great if you want less depth of field
• 1-stop less ISO, for cleaner images

I have the EOS R6 Mark II and the images do clean up really well even in Lightroom's denoise. It's only if the choice is 25,600 with an f/2.8 lens compared to ISO 51,200 with an f/4 that I would think there is much difference in the final image between the two. Also remember the f/2.8 lens physically is larger and heavier than the f/4 version. 

I use several f/4 lenses with my camera, EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM and EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM, but if I can work with the limited aperture and know it's going to be really dark then I'll opt for the RF 28-70mm F2L USM to give me 2-stops more light coming in to the camera, with even more combined camera and lens weight and size in my hands. Sometimes there is a good case for a fast aperture inexpensive prime lens "just in case" and the RF system has a couple of choices that don't break the bank, but I would see them as addtional not instead of a "standard" zoom lens. 

[MrWalleye73]

Brian,

Good points, I may have to have a long talk with Santa this year.and or continue liquidating some old inventory. I do have some EF primes I could adapt if the need arises too. Again, musing my choices (and budget)  in RF mount, and trying to keep the kit as simple as possible these days. All info and opinions provided here are super appreciated. Gentleman, I thank you as always!

Chris