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Canon RF85mm f/1.2L USM Lens, which brand of UV Filter?

watash1965
Contributor

Greetings,

Does anyone here have the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2 lens? If so, what make/brand kind of UV filter do you use?

 

Thank you,

Steve Raub

2 ACCEPTED SOLUTIONS

Accepted Solutions

Don't waste money on a UV filter. If instead you want some additional protection, look at a clear filter. However, keep this in mind: you'll be putting another piece of glass in front of the lens' excellent optical elements. So be sure to get a good quality filter.

Personally I use B+W filters to include their "007 Clear MRC Nano Master" product. I also use the same brand for Circular Polarizer and Neutral Density filters.

Another option is to use a lens hood which can add protection to the front element instead of using a filter. Though my personal feeling is it's better to have damaged the filter than the front element.

Finally, one other thing to look at when buying filters. Be sure that the material of the filter's ring is different than the material used at the front on the lens. This helps reduce binding. Though you still need to be careful to not over tighten. The B+W filters I have use a different material than both of my Canon's lenses filter threads.

--
Ricky

Camera: EOS R5 II, RF 50mm f/1.2L, RF 135mm f/1.8L
Lighting: Profoto Lights & Modifiers

View solution in original post

JeffXB
Enthusiast
Enthusiast

Modern mirrorless camera’s don’t need UV filters. They’re essentially a throwback to film cameras. Adding a clear filter can offer a limited amount of protection along with a lens hood as previously mentioned by rs-eos. 

Personally I prefer Maven brand filters. They are tier one filters (high quality) like B+W, but are magnetic mounts. Screw on an adapter ring, add a clear “Splash Guard” filter and you’re good to go. The filter can then easily be added and removed. They also make Splash Guard’s that screw onto your lens and have the magnetic adapter built in as well.  It’s what I use on my lenses. 

A Linear Polarizer (for mirrorless cameras), or a Circular Polarizer (for DLSR’s), via their magnetic mount system can then also be easily added and removed along with any of their other filters. Magnetically mounted filters help save time between shots and avoid cross threading as well as fumbling around trying to screw on a filter (especially during low light or street shooting).

There are many effects and error corrections you can do in Lightroom, Photoshop, and other editing programs. One thing you can’t do is remove glare, like that on water or other shiny surfaces (glass, car bodies, etc). Think of adding a  polarizer is like putting polarized sunglasses on your lens.

The same holds true for ND (Neutral Density) filters. It’s very difficult, if not impossible, to add that dreamy effect of moving water in post. Think of those photos you’ve probably seen of waterfalls, where instead of freezing the water, it appears to still be flowing. Or a seascape where the ocean seems to be flat and the clouds are soft and blended together. You need ND filters to create those effects. Essentially long exposure’s where if you were not using a ND filter everything would be blown out. Again, think of them as like adding dark sunglasses to your lens.. ND filters, mostly the variable type, are also invaluable for shooting video in brightly lit environments. 

View solution in original post

12 REPLIES 12

shadowsports
Legend
Legend

Greetings,

Suggest you look at B&W or Hoya.  

~Rick
Bay Area - CA


~R5 C (1.1.2.1), ~R50v (1.1.1) ~RF Trinity, ~RF 100 Macro, ~RF 100~400, ~RF 100~500, ~RF 200-800 +RF 1.4x TC, BG-R10, 430EX III-RT ~DxO PhotoLab Elite ~DaVinci Resolve Studio ~ImageClass MF644Cdw/MF656Cdw ~Pixel 10 ~CarePaks Are Worth It

watash1965
Contributor

Thank you, but that's over my head. Can you please just provide a recommendation for a UV filter for my Canon RF 85mm f/1.2 L lens? Brand, etc.? Why put an inexpensive filter on such incredible glass?

Don't waste money on a UV filter. If instead you want some additional protection, look at a clear filter. However, keep this in mind: you'll be putting another piece of glass in front of the lens' excellent optical elements. So be sure to get a good quality filter.

Personally I use B+W filters to include their "007 Clear MRC Nano Master" product. I also use the same brand for Circular Polarizer and Neutral Density filters.

Another option is to use a lens hood which can add protection to the front element instead of using a filter. Though my personal feeling is it's better to have damaged the filter than the front element.

Finally, one other thing to look at when buying filters. Be sure that the material of the filter's ring is different than the material used at the front on the lens. This helps reduce binding. Though you still need to be careful to not over tighten. The B+W filters I have use a different material than both of my Canon's lenses filter threads.

--
Ricky

Camera: EOS R5 II, RF 50mm f/1.2L, RF 135mm f/1.8L
Lighting: Profoto Lights & Modifiers

watash1965
Contributor

Excellent advice! Thank you.

Steve

Do you use any circular polarisers for your high-end lenses? And why? 

Thank you, your experience certainly will help me,

Steve

It doesn't matter what the lens is, but yes, I will use CP filters in situations where I need to cut down reflections. Also very useful for example to enhance the look of plants in bright sunlight.

--
Ricky

Camera: EOS R5 II, RF 50mm f/1.2L, RF 135mm f/1.8L
Lighting: Profoto Lights & Modifiers

JeffXB
Enthusiast
Enthusiast

Modern mirrorless camera’s don’t need UV filters. They’re essentially a throwback to film cameras. Adding a clear filter can offer a limited amount of protection along with a lens hood as previously mentioned by rs-eos. 

Personally I prefer Maven brand filters. They are tier one filters (high quality) like B+W, but are magnetic mounts. Screw on an adapter ring, add a clear “Splash Guard” filter and you’re good to go. The filter can then easily be added and removed. They also make Splash Guard’s that screw onto your lens and have the magnetic adapter built in as well.  It’s what I use on my lenses. 

A Linear Polarizer (for mirrorless cameras), or a Circular Polarizer (for DLSR’s), via their magnetic mount system can then also be easily added and removed along with any of their other filters. Magnetically mounted filters help save time between shots and avoid cross threading as well as fumbling around trying to screw on a filter (especially during low light or street shooting).

There are many effects and error corrections you can do in Lightroom, Photoshop, and other editing programs. One thing you can’t do is remove glare, like that on water or other shiny surfaces (glass, car bodies, etc). Think of adding a  polarizer is like putting polarized sunglasses on your lens.

The same holds true for ND (Neutral Density) filters. It’s very difficult, if not impossible, to add that dreamy effect of moving water in post. Think of those photos you’ve probably seen of waterfalls, where instead of freezing the water, it appears to still be flowing. Or a seascape where the ocean seems to be flat and the clouds are soft and blended together. You need ND filters to create those effects. Essentially long exposure’s where if you were not using a ND filter everything would be blown out. Again, think of them as like adding dark sunglasses to your lens.. ND filters, mostly the variable type, are also invaluable for shooting video in brightly lit environments. 

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

"There are many effects and error corrections you can do in Lightroom, Photoshop, and other editing programs."

I do use a B+W protecto filter on almost every lens I have. Otherwise, I use Photoshop as filters have almost become obsolete. Indeed most of them are totally obsolete.

"It’s very difficult, if not impossible, to add that dreamy effect of moving water in post. ... One thing you can’t do is remove glare, ..."

You need more PS training. 😊

EB
EOS 1DX and many lenses.

Always keep in mind a filter comes off as easily as it goes on. If you find yourself in a situation where the filter is introducing some unwanted artifacts simply remove it. If you use a top brand and top quality filter like B+W there won't be many if any issues.

BTW, it is B+W, not B&W as some write.

EB
EOS 1DX and many lenses.
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