cancel
Showing results for 
Show  only  | Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

night

joe5-0swoman
Contributor

Hi there. I have a REBEL XTI and was wondering how to take night photos... What settings it should be on... I find my flash always flickers, and I get a busy message on the display... Does anyone know what or how to change the settings.

18 REPLIES 18


@joe5-0swoman wrote:

the sky... stars... people, buildings.... etc... everything. fireworks


This is how I would try typically focus on that sort of stuff

  • the sky - Autofocus on the edge of a cloud, assuming one is available.  Nearby objects are far too close for hyperfocus.
  • stars - Use Live View to pre-focus manually on the brightest star.  Try to focus on something a  mile away, or more.
  • moon - Same as stars, both require a STURDY tripod, and a remote, or delayed, shutter.
  • people - No one answer for this.   Too many variation of parameters, but available light should be a strong factor.
  • buildings - I like to use a tripod if possible, just so I can accurately level the camera and get a rectilinear shot.
  • fireworks - Haven't tried this yet with a DSLR.  Pre-focus manually at the hyperfocal distance of the lens.  Just like stars.

 

As far as everything goes, I generally try to keep shutter speed high and ISO low, for sharp pictures.  There are good reasons to use a slower shutter, though, because it can used to convey a sense of motion in various ways.

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."


@ebiggs1 wrote:

"... everything. fireworks"

 

Fireworks are among the easiest to shoot.  Set the Rebel on a tripod.  Manual mode. Av to f8 and SS as long as you want.  Shoot away.

 

_52D0232-Edit.jpg


You make it sound easier than it really is. Most fireworks pictures don't turn out nearly that well.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

The busy message is probably because you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction on. If you take a long exposure (> 1 sec) the camera will take *another* exposure so it can subtract the hot pixels. So, the camera will take twice as long to produce the image.


@kvbarkley wrote:

The busy message is probably because you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction on. If you take a long exposure (> 1 sec) the camera will take *another* exposure so it can subtract the hot pixels. So, the camera will take twice as long to produce the image.


LENR is a statistical technique aimed (I believe) at low-light noise, not hot pixels. On modern sensors hot pixels are pretty rare. Not like the old days, when manufacturers warned you to expect them.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

@joe5-0swoman wrote:

Hi there. I have a REBEL XTI and was wondering how to take night photos... What settings it should be on... I find my flash always flickers, and I get a busy message on the display... Does anyone know what or how to change the settings.


You should find a setting in the menus for "AF-Assist Beam", where you can disable it.  Without it, your camera may not be able to lock focus in many low light situations, and you may be forced to manually focus to get the shot.

 

Generally, though, i prefer indoor shots with ambient light, and so I leave the AF Assist disabled in my T5.  When my T5 has trouble focusing in low light, it usually means the ISO will go high enough to introduce noticeable noise.  That's my cue to get more light. 

 

The built-in flash doesn't reach much more than 5-10 feet, and neither will the AF-Assist Beam.  The built-in flash will cast a shadow with most lenses.

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."


@kvbarkley wrote:

The busy message is probably because you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction on. If you take a long exposure (> 1 sec) the camera will take *another* exposure so it can subtract the hot pixels. So, the camera will take twice as long to produce the image.


Either that, or the built-in flash is recycling due to producing so many AF-Assist flash beams.  If this were the case, you should see a lightning bolt displayed next to the word "buSY" in the viewfinder.

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."

The XSi came out in 2008. It did have DIGIC III, though.

 

LENR  "is technology to combat the so-called fixed pattern noise that can develop as shutter speeds become progressively longer — a common issue in long night exposures and so on"

 

http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/high_iso_noise_reduction_article.shtml

 

So maybe not "hot pixels", but pixels that are brighter than they should be.

 

 


@kvbarkley wrote:

The XSi came out in 2008. It did have DIGIC III, though.

 

LENR  "is technology to combat the so-called fixed pattern noise that can develop as shutter speeds become progressively longer — a common issue in long night exposures and so on"

 

http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/high_iso_noise_reduction_article.shtml

 

So maybe not "hot pixels", but pixels that are brighter than they should be.

 

 


That's true. 

 

Something else that appears to be true is that the OP is not able to take a picture because the cameras says "buSY".  And, that's why I'm ruling out LENR. 

--------------------------------------------------------
"Enjoying photography since 1972."


@joe5-0swoman wrote:

Thank you very much... everyone has told me i have a fantastic camera. but its from 2007, wasnt originally what i even wanted, and I have been frustered for 9 years.


Your camera is rather old and less capable than the newer models but there is nothing wrong with using it for night photography.  As far as I can recall, your camera does not have live view...I find that live view really makes night photography easy in many cases because in M mode, you will see exactly what you will get after you change various modes (aperture, speed and ISO).  Without it , you will need to depend on the Standard Exposure Index in the viewfinder for correct exposure.

 

For most night shots, you will need a sturdy tripod (one that will not vibrate in the wind) and as others have stated, you will need to get off the auto modes...switch to Manual everything, include focusing.  Again, live view plays an important role here also because you can magnify your image 10 times and you can really use it to precise focus (sounds like I'm encouraging you to get a newer model, doesn't it?).  In low light conditions, any camera will have big troubles trying to focus and it will either tell you it can't focus (by not letting you take the shot) or worse lie to you that it can focus and give you a slightly blurred image.

 

So you need a tripod.  You also need to be able to work in the dark (using your own light or camera lights) to operate your camera.  You will need to be able to manually focus.  And lastly, you need to be able to set aperture, speed and ISO to get a correct exposure.  Sometimes you need to be able to calculate speed based on aperture and ISO  if the speed exceeds 30 seconds--you need to use B (bulb) mode and the camera stops calculating for you.  You need to know how long to hold the shutter button down.  Lastly, you need a remote shutter release (cable version is preferred) to avoid camera shake when you press that shutter button.  Also it will save your finger from pressing on that button for more than 30 seconds...the remote will do that for you.

 

The technique is rather simple - mount camera on tripod with the remote shutter release. Switch the lens from A to M, switch the camera to M.  Set Aperture to f/11 or f/16, ISO to 100 and set the speed to whatever is needed to get the correct exposure...this typically takes multiple seconds but the result could be very striking like this image I took in Saigon, Vietnam a couple of years ago.  Your camera is fully capable of taking this kind of shot.  This was taken using f/11; ISO 200; 20 seconds.  I used ISO 200 to avoid a 40 seconds exposure because I didn't have a watch (remember past 30 seconds you're on your own).

 

22771467189_4c45c70ee5_z.jpg

================================================
Diverhank's photos on Flickr
Announcements