I have a Canon EOS 60D. It's been great for me. most of the last 30 years, I've shot spots in my kids/grandkits school.
I have a Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8; A Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8; and a Tamron 45mm 1.8 lenses. These have served me well. And they are not that old. I'm now shooting indoor volleyball and basketball. As we all know, they can be pretty dark. I think my problem is not the lenses, but the camera. I"m looking for advice on updating my camera. My 45mm 1.8 lets enough light in, but my autofocus never gets there in time.
a guy at work told me to go with a CANON EOS 5D Mark IV. And that would work with my lenses and would satisfy me. He's no professional, but he know some. I appreciate the information though. It's got my head thinkng.
The 5DIV was one of the units I mentioned, but it is a full-frame body and will mean that your field of view is not as tight on a subject as your 60D. The tracking on it is nowhere near as good as the R-series bodies and they also have better low light performance. Do you understand what the impact of sensor size is to what you capture?
I don't understand all that's mentioned. But i'm studying all the information given. I saved for a while to get lenses for about $3,500. If I was younger and wealthier, I would start over on the equipment. I have just started on some rodeo photography for students (a new world for me). I'm going to just keep my Tamron lenses, and find the best camera I can get for them.
Thanks for all the info. I'm still studying through it all. I won't jump too soon.
In order to get the same framing as a Full Frame camera. You would have to step back to get the same framing with an APS-C camera would.
It relates to how much of your subject will fill the frame. For example, these two images are with a 50mm lens. One with a full-frame camera, the other with a crop-sensor (APS-C) camera. In both cases, the cameras were at the same exact distance from the subject (around 55 cm to the eyes).
On the crop-sensor camera, the 50mm lens fills the frame more (narrower field-of-view) as if it was an 80mm lens on a full-frame camera. However, it's still a 50mm lens, so will still produce facial distortions as in this headshot closeup.
Another way to visualize things. Here is a comparison of a 135mm lens on both a full-frame camera and a crop-sensor camera (cameras at the same distance from the subject):
Speaking only to framing (there will be other pros/cons of full-frame vs crop-sensor), a full frame camera excels at the wide angle end of things. i.e. it's much easier to get more into the frame. A crop-sensor camera excels at the telephoto end of things. i.e. it's much easier to fill the frame with distant subjects.
Canon has the EOS R10 on sale for $ 900 with the kit lens and $ 879 for body only. It also comes in under budget. Allowing the extra money to be spent on extra batteries, lenses and other accessories.
We understand all this information can be a little overwhelming. Especially for someone who has been using one camera for a very long time. With the introduction of mirrorless, you now have even more choices. It still comes down to the size of the sensor and lens type. There are 2, with each having the EF (DSLR) or RF (mirrorless) mount.
We normally take the lenses you own (and plan to use) into consideration when making a recommendation. Your lenses are all intended for cameras with a full frame sensor. This offers the most versatility since its possible to use them on a camera with the smaller APS-C sensor as well. While the FOV is different (as pointed out above) the captured images retain the maximum resolution capability of the camera's sensor.
I don't believe you'll have a significant issue "getting used to" the difference. Your zoom lenses will still offer the same ability to move in or away from a subject (stationary). Using your 45mm prime, you will still need to physically step closer or back from your subject if you are too close or too far away.
Its true. the camera industry has shifted to camera's based on mirrorless sensors. Today, buying or investing in a DSLR camera means you are investing in older technology. It doesn't mean its bad, but no further development is happening there. Sort of like buying a computer from 5 yrs ago vs. a new one today. That 5 yr old model still works, but it does not perform as fast or as well as a new model. For a time, the price difference between DSLR's and mirrorless was still dramatic. Not any more. The prices for mirrorless bodies has dropped considerably and in many cases can be less expensive in comparison.
The last thing we should mention again is compatibility. Others mentioned this and its something to think about. Canon cameras work best with Canon lenses. Compatibility with 3rd party gear is not guaranteed. This is especially true of older 3rd party EF lenses (yours) when they are adapted to newer mirrorless bodies. They may work perfectly, or 99%, or 2 works and the 3rd not so well. It really depends on the brand, model and date of manufacture. If you are considering mirrorless, I also suggest you take the advice of others and test your gear before committing. Not trying to alarm you, instead we want to ensure a positive experience.
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