I assume that you are saving files as RAW. Without seeing the “before” shot, it is next to impossible to judge how well you may have recovered dynamic range in the shadows. I can say that LR does a really good job of it, though. Overall, I think the shot looks pretty good. Try giving it a little more contrast.
As for the dynamic range in a T6, its’ predecessor was rated in the bottom tier of cameras when it was still being sold as new. But, that sounds far more harsh than what the camera is capable of doing. For some shots, how you meter the scene and set exposure can make those small differences in getting the most DR out of a given shot.
I have found evaluative metering to be sufficient for 99.99% of the static shots that I take. Evaluative metering keeps highlights from being blown out, and shadows from being completely lost. However, it does tend to seek a middle ground when it comes to exposure. It wants to set exposure at the center of Ansel Adams zone system.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zone_System
While that link is not the best explanation, it is also a fairly concise and compact explanation of the concept. Going from one square to the next represents a full stop of light. While the human eye is capable of seeing a dynamic range of 20 stops of light, most digital cameras are capable of capturing only 10-12 stops of light,
Furthermore, digital cameras cannot capture the full 10-12 stops of DR in one shot. Most cameras are capable of only capturing 5-6 stops of light, of 5-6 zones on the zone system. Evaluative metering will try to center the exposure at the V, or Zone 5. It wants to capture images ranging between Zones 3-7. Notice how this discards content in highlights and shadows.
If you want to capture content nearer to the endpoints of the scale, you need to introduce exposure compensation, or to dial in exposure manually. You could also change from Evaluative metering mode to Center Weighted or Spot metering. Use those metering modes to put your subject at the center of the zone system’s exposure scale.
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As for Lightroom, there are a few things that you can do to expand dynamic range in your shots. Of course, it begins with shooting as RAW. It continues with histogram display, which you want to see evenly distributed in the center. If the histogram content is mainly on the far left or right, the shot is over or under exposed.
Lightroom has tools that help to pull the histogram back to the center. These would be the Whites, Blacks, Highlights, and Shadows sliders. You can enable the histogram to display clipping in the boxes in the upper right and left corners. On Windows machines, you can hold down the [ALT] key while you adjust Whites or Blacks, and see where in the shot highlights are being blown out, or shadows being lost to noise.
Try this! Make a virtual copy fo the shot, so that you can more easily compare two combinations of settings, yours and what i am about to tell you. This is one way to maximize the dynamic range in a shot.
Begin with the Whites slider. Hold down the [ALT] key, and you will see a completely white screen. As you increase it, you will see dark spots on the screen begin to appear. This is saturation. Adjust the slider to just before saturation appears. Do the same with the Blacks slider. Hold down the [ALT] key, and as you decrease the value, you will see saturation spots appear. Adjust the slider to just before saturation appears.
With an ideal exposure, the Whites and Blacks sliders to be set to plus or minus the same value: i.e +10 and -10. Sometimes you will have to adjust Highlights and Shadows a little to achieve tha balance of Whites and Blacks. Once you have set White and Blacks, you can adjust Highlights and Shadows to fine tune the dynamic range. Finally, I like to add up to 10 points of contrast. Done!
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"The right mouse button is your friend."
