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Pics out of focus when shooting horizontally

I'm having CANON 5D MARK III and the lens I'm using is the same one you get with the camera (canon 24-105mm). In the last few months I noticed that when I'm taking pics horizontally (landscape mode) the pics seems to be fuzzy or not in focus but when I'm shooting vertaclly (portrait mode) all the pics are just fine and in focus. I'm shooting in manual mode and the settings im using are the same for both cases (portrait mode and landscape mode). In most cases I'm using in shutter speed of 250 or above and F-stop arround 9-10 (keeping my iso at 100 all the time unless its really dark). Also Im using a single AF point (the one in the center). So I dont get it... why when im taking pics in vertical all very sharp and when Im tilting the camera to horizontal the pics are very fuzzy and blurry when all settings are the same?!

Orientation linked AF point is same for both vert/horiz so its not the case.

Did you ever come across this issue? Does somone know how to solve this problem? Am I the only one who is trying to solve this problem?

Plz help!
Yar 😉


That does sound odd.  Can you post sample photos, one good and one bad, of the same subject?


Are you focusing and decomposing the shot?

"The right mouse button is your friend."


"...the pics are very fuzzy and blurry..."


All over blury photos indicates camera movement. Something in the shot should be in good focus if not.

EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and several lenses!

I agree with Ernie that it sure sounds like camera shake.  At F9 to F10 you have tremendous depth of field at any normal distance even with that lens all the way out to its telephoto end.  A LOT of somethings should be in reasonable focus.


The camera "thinks" it has found focus assuming you are getting AF confirmation.



EOS 1DX M3, 1DX M2, 1DX, 5DS R, M6 Mark II, 1D M2, EOS 650 (film), many lenses, XF400 video

Agree it sounds like camera shake, but OP says " In most cases I'm using in shutter speed of 250 or above", which should be sufficient to avoid it at 105mm max on a FF camera.


Plus OP claims same setting H or V but only H shows the problem.


To OP - can you put camra on a tripod and repeat your test? Also, set lens to AF (if you are in MF) so exposure will only occur if camera achieves focus. If you are in MF its possible to take a photo w/o being in focus. Depending on the subject you could have good focus in V and not in H (since you have different focus point settings H and V). (DoF won't always help if there isn't a lot of depth to the subject, like a distant landscape).

John Hoffman
Conway, NH

1D X Mark III, Many lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, LR Classic

"Plus OP claims same setting H or V but only H shows the problem."


Different muscles are used.

EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and several lenses!

Does IS have any sort of bias toward horizontal or vertical camera movement?

It shouldn't, that is why you need the panning modes.

@kvbarkley wrote:

It shouldn't, that is why you need the panning modes.

Oooof! Panning Modes. I'm not aware of my 60D or my few Canon lenses having any of those. So I'll have to do a bit research on those. Though I did find a little discussion on the matter on the Ugly Hedgehog photography forum. Just unsure if this applies to the OP's situation or not.


...There is no single "best" mode. It depends upon what you are doing and how you want the IS to work (how you want the image rendered, in some cases).


Mode 1 - Standard dual axis stabilization. Both horizontal and vertical movements are being corrected. Starts and runs normally with half press of the shutter release button or when the AF On button (or other assigned button) is pressed during BBF. Both the image in the viewfinder and the image being captured are stabilized. I usually like the viewfinder image being stabilized, so this mode is the one I use most of the time.


Mode 2 - Single axis "panning stabilization". Only movement along the vertical axis is corrected. And it doesn't matter the orientation of the camera. That's detected and the stabilization changes accordingly. This mode is used when panning with a slower shutter speed, where you are trying to deliberately blur movement in the horizontal axis and don't want the stabilization counteracting your efforts. It starts and runs the same way as Mode 1. And it effects both the viewfinder and the image.


Mode 3 - Instant dual axis stabilization, same as Mode 1, except this only starts and runs during the actual exposure. Unlike Mode 1, it doesn't start up as soon as you half press the shutter release (or press a button on the back of the camera using BBF). Stabilization doesn't occur until during the actual exposure, which can be a fraction of a second, so this lens' stabilization must be extremely fast acting. This mode basically doesn't effect the viewfinder image... only the image being captured. It also might be useful in extremely quiet situations, where the slight noise of the IS running would be heard (of course, your DSLR's shutter and mirror are still making noise). In certain situations, the IS stabilizing the viewfinder image might be unnecessary or unhelpful, too. Mode 3 also might save a little battery power in some situations, though in my experience IS doesn't draw a lot.


The 100-400 II is the least expensive lens to have this advanced form of IS, which is good for 3 to 4 stops of effectiveness (varies with user capabilities and other factors). The "II" series "super telephotos" (300mm f/2.8, 400mm f/4, etc.) are the other lenses that have Mode 3/Instant IS.