How abut those fireworks? Did you get any good shots?

[ebiggs1]

Using a 1D Mk IV with a EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM II lens. And my 1Ds Mk III with a EF 24-70mm f2.8L lens.

Mk IV set at f8 and 1 1/2 sec shutter. Ds3 set to f5.6 and 1/2 sec.  Both using ISO 400.  Of course when shooting this type, or really anything, you should bracket your settings. Took a little over 300 photos.

[RobertTheFat]

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@jazzman1 wrote:

hey guys, i never shot fireworks before so this info is good to know.  i also know any available light would change the varibles. i did'nt know the light from fireworks would make as much difference as it seemingly does, even being far away.  then too, both you guys cameras are much better in low light than mine.   i do change my settings for different situations and lighting.  i no longer use auto.

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There are two operative points here: 1) Fireworks are not necessarily a "low light" situation; and 2) since you usually want to see the "trails" made by the burning elements, you're likely to use a slow shutter speed. A camera doesn't have to be particularly good in low light in order to photograph fireworks.

[TCampbell]

The camera will not be an issue.  Any DSLR can do this:

This isn't shot with my 5D II or III... this was shot with my Rebel T1i (years ago).  This is ISO 100, f/11, and a 4 second exposure. 

I've bolded the ISO to call attention to the fact that this was taken at base ISO (you do not need a camera that can produce low noise at high ISO because you don't necessairly need high ISO).  Also notice that I'm using f/11 here.

It's pretty bright and you can see that I could probably have reduced the aperture to f/16 and still had a lot of light.

The shutter speed doesn't control light here ... only the aperture does (well, and ISO sensitivity but that's already down to ISO 100).  So basically I'm using f/11 to avoid over-exposure and the shutter speed is simply allowing the capture of the trails.

I actually showed up for a party, was completely unaware that there were going to be any fireworks, and didn't have a tripod.  So these are hand-held and I'm doing my best to rest the camera on an object so I can hold the shutter open without moving it.

[jazzman1]

Hey Tim.  You guys are really throwing me for a loop here.  Had you and Bob not told me this, i would have thought shooting at night at ISO 100 and getting good shots was not possible, least not with my camera and lens.  I have not shot alot yet at night but when I have my results were not stellar.  I mean, i've had my shutter not fire at all at times, and had to move closer to some light and boost my ISO up to 1600 or more and change my f stop.  And the shots I have got i did'nt think was good.  The only night shots i've taken  I deem spectacular was with my Canon SX 60 P&S at appox 1,000mm or so, shooting a full moon.  Now that pic is spectaculr, taken in auto.   But my 24-105 L and 70-300 L fastest aperture is f4.   I thought to be able to get shots at night with my 60D like you and biggs have here...i'd need a faster lens.  But if I understand what you and Bob are telling me, that may not be so.  

Question.... what's the fastest f stop of the lens you guys used with your night shots????    f2.8 ?????

[TCampbell]

You'll want to switch the lens to "manual focus" and pre-focus the lens to the distance for your fireworks. If the lens is on "auto focus" and you are in "one shot" mode then it may struggle to focus and it would refuse to take a shot until it believes it has focused. When you switch to "manual focus" all that goes away and the camera will take the shot whenever you press the shutter release.

The fireworks emit their own light and are quite bright. Nothing else in the area will get much light (you'd need a longer exposure if you wanted the landscape to show up) but the fireworks themselves will be... well you can see for yourself in these images.

A tripod helps (I didn't have one and was resting the camera on something. I didn't know there was to be a fireworks display (or I would have brought a tripod).

I didn't actually use "bulb" mode (thought that would have been better had I known and brought my external wired shutter release). So I just dialed in a 4 second exposure and as I heard the mortar fire, I'd release the shutter to capture the trail of the mortar going up and enough time to capture the burst as it explodes and leaves the trail. I found 4 seconds worked pretty well (and yes, there were lots of botched images as I worked out the best time to press the shutter release.)

The moon is pretty bright too! f/11 and set the shutter to the inverse of the ISO setting (e.g. at ISO 100 use 1/100th. At ISO 200 use 1/200th, etc.)

BTW, I did use a 14mm wide angle lens. I was fairly close and long lenses wouldn't have captured much of the images (and you'd need to be able predict where the shell would explode.)

[jazzman1]

Thanks much Tim as usual you gave a fine detailed explanation. 

This all is virgin turf for me, I've never shot fireworks and have very limited night time experience with my camera.   But I thank you guys for taking the time to help me understand here.  I'm starting to get more serious with my shooting technic and using a tripod more.  My hands are not steady at any range anymore and it's hard to get good results sometimes handheld at farther zoom range.  My hands don't shake like Don Notts, but they're never totaly steady.    I appriciate your suggestion to use manual mode, I do that sometimes but I mostly use P or AV.  Another problem I have is my eyesight is not the best and I wear glasses.  Sometimes I can't tell if my shot is any sharper looking through the viewfinder in manual, AV, or P mode with IS off or on...on my tripod.  . I do need new glasses, I have'nt gotton a new perscription since right after my caterac surgery over a year ago.   My sight was better right after my surgury but it has deteriated alittle since, and now stabalised.  I'm well overdue for new glasses and have an appointment to get new ones this coming wed.   I'm not saying all this for anyother reason thatnso you guys can give me any suggestions you think would help with my circumstances.  I'm determined to become at least a decent photographer, no matter what issues I may have now or in the future.  I read you, bob, biggs and all you guys post everyday.  I'm learning, but at this point my learning seems to be slower. 

[jazzman1]

BTW Tim.....I was'nt asking what f stop you used with your lens, I was asking what the fastest aperture is of the lens you used.  As in my 24-105mm L f4 USM.   My lens aperture is a constant f4.  What's the aperture of the lens you used???

Sorry if I was'nt clear.

[TCampbell]

The lens on that particular shot was the Canon EF 14mm f/2.8L USM II. (But I took that shot at f/11).

[jazzman1]

Thumbs Up 

[RustyB]

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@jazzman1 wrote:

Thumbs Up 

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heres one from a few years back over the bay, i believe this was about a 20 second exposure to capture multiple bursts, bulb mode with remote switch on tripod, low iso setting

[ScottyP]

Hi Jazzman.

Firework shots are different than the typical night shot because the fire part is so bright.  

If you are shooting something that is not moving, or if you are shooting something like fireworks where you actually want motion blur, camera shake blur and subject motion blur are not an issue so as long as you have a tripod.  You can have the cheapest camera and the cheapest lens and still get a good exposure in very little light even at small apertures.  Just use a long enough (10 sec, 30 sec, etc.) exposure and let the camera soak up the available light.

Add in a speedlight flash, set to 2nd curtain sync and you can add in a moving subject and freeze them in sharp unblurred images provided you heavily underexposed them - to the point they show up as black - for the ambient lighting, and then you let your flash freeze their image for you.