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Focus bracketing doesn't work properly - R6 mk2

b3n
Apprentice

Hey there,

I tried using the focus bracketing feature on my r6 mk2 with my RFL70-200mm 2.8

Unfortunately it's pretty messy...

The main problem is that no matter how many pictures I let the camera take and no matter how small the steps in-between the pictures are the cmera doesn't go through the whole picture with the focus.

 

For example: I tested it on a boat bridge this evening to test if i can get the bridge, the railing and the background in focus. 

Unfortunately the camera takes 30 or even 60 pictures and all of them look pretty much identical which leads to the jpg being generated and the only part really in focus is the lowest part of the bridge on the lower end of the picture. I lengthened the exposure time but nothing changed.

Is the camera not able to do this if it's too dark?

I thought you just need to find focus of the nearest part on the picture and the rest is automatically done?

 

7 REPLIES 7

p4pictures
Authority
Authority

I would try to use the focus bracketing but save all the individual frames, not create the in-camera composite. This way you can use the Depth compositing feature in Digital Photo Professional (DPP) to have more control over how the stacked image is created. You might try one shot with the camera making the composite and one where it only saves the individual frames. In low light there might be no discernible detail difference in the shots at greater difference and that might mean the camera doesn't make the best use when creating the JPG itself. DPP gives you more control in this respect.  

If you set the camera to take many shots, then it is possible it will stop before the selected number are captured. Generally this is because the lens has been moved all the way to infinity, so there is no point taking lots of photos at the same focus distance.

Focus bracketing works best when the lens is set to a wider open aperture, so f/4 or even f/2.8 can be more effective than f/8 or f/11 since each frame is then sufficiently distinct and different. 


Brian
EOS specialist trainer, photographer and author
-- Note: my spell checker is set for EN-GB, not EN-US --

Thanks for your reply.

The in camera composite jpg isn't the problem.

The single shot the camera creates doesn't show any kind of shift in focus. The jpg reflects this of course.

The test shots were all taken at 2.8 since it was already after sunset

 

kvbarkley
VIP
VIP

Usually focus bracketing is used for macro photographs where you have very narrow depth of field, even with small apertures.

In your case, it is much easier to just adjust the aperture to get the DOF you want.

You will also need a large increment and it recommends to start at F/5.6 which will probably put everything in focus anyway.

Also make sure you use a tripod.

 

Tripod was used.

I only have the 70-200mm at this time with isn't ideal which I know. But to create a landscape photography at 70mm where objects as near as 1m and as far as the horizon (or in this case the the boat bridge, the lake and the sky)

Are only achievable with focus stacking afaik.

I don't know, at 70mm, f/32 the hyperfocal distance is 5.2m, so everything from 2.6 meters on would be in focus.

Untitled.jpg

If you do use bracketing, make sure to use a large increment.

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

“ For example: I tested it on a boat bridge this evening to test if i can get the bridge, the railing and the background in focus. “

How far away is the closest part of the bridge?  Maybe a single shot using a wider lens.   

--------------------------------------------------------
"Fooling computers since 1972."

Closest part was at approx minimum focus distance.

I have no wider lens at this point and I thought stacking focus is the solution which it could very well be... If it would work

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