EOS 80D focus recommendations for outdoor daytime sports

[Soccer_shoot]

Hi,

I was given an old EOS 30D and purchased a Canon EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 III lens to shoot my 20yr old sons soccer games. (Only have 3 seasons experience so far). Recently the 30D died so I bought a quality 2nd hand EOS 80D that I use with the same lens.

For this setup I understand that I am limited to outdoor day photography only however am hoping someone can provide advice on the best settings, in particular the best AF zone settings to use in this environment on the 80D. My biggest frustration is trying to limit the camera auto focusing on the signage (advertising) around the border of the playing field. 

Please help!

[wq9nsc]

The problem is with most large team sports, the closest player to you is rarely the one you want the AF to lock on. 

You really have to read the game and anticipate as much as possible, using a large AF zone or the full array works OK if you are shooting with the aperture stepped down for a very deep depth of field but that isn't something you can (or want to) do often in sports photography.

Rodger

[Waddizzle]

“ The problem is with most large team sports, the closest player to you is rarely the one you want the AF to lock on. “

I don’t think that will be the case. I would expect most if not all the players to be in focus using the Canon EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 III from a distance.

I assume that’s how the 30D was used.

 

[ebiggs1]

"You really have to read the game and anticipate as much as possible, ..."

Majorly important perhaps the most important thing to do and learn.

" It’s difficult to use a single point when you’re shooting from a distance."

Absolutely not. It makes the subject you want easier much easier to lock on.

[justadude]

"Absolutely not. It makes the subject you want easier much easier to lock on."

Of course this depends entirely on the sport.  Soccer (or similar field sports) I agree with you completely.  It would be crazy to use any other AF settings.

The main sports I'm hired for are marathons and triathlons.  With very few exceptions, I want to capture the person closest to me when they are running in my direction.  AI Servo, whole area, helps me capture what I need far more often than when I first started shooting these events yers ago using single point.  I nail the focus on 99% of my shots on average shooting this way.

And for sports like golf photography... well, the best setting is to set your camera back into your bag, go home, and let somebody else shoot their single shot every three minutes. 😂

[Waddizzle]

"You really have to read the game and anticipate as much as possible, ..."

Majorly important perhaps the most important thing to do and learn.

" It’s difficult to use a single point when you’re shooting from a distance."

Absolutely not. It makes the subject you want easier much easier to lock on.

——————————————

Your points are sound. But we are talking about an amateur photographer here.

As far as using single point from a distance goes, you are speaking for yourself. It’s obviously not working out.  The AF point seems to be sliding off players to the background. What’s your solution for that issue.

[Soccer_shoot]

Let me just say that I really appreciate all the responses so far. Its great to some some objective opinions. 

As far as my positioning goes I do get on field or along the fenceline - depends on which ground of course. Because my son is an attacking midfielder I would usually shoot from behind the line at the oppositions goal to get the attacking shot as they are running in, depending on the position of the sun of course (shadows). Admittedly I shoot jpg (not raw) and just crop them as needed to get them out to the team quickly but will now try RAW and use the DPP4.

These shots are the old 30D before it died. The AF setting on the 30D are much more simpler than the 80D so I am looking at settings on the 80D more so than my positioning and understanding of the game. hopefully would liek to get back the colour depth with the 80D that I once acheived with the 30D Canon EOS 30D 100mm f/4.5 1/4000 ISO 500Canon EOS 30D 75mm f/4.0 1/6400 ISO 500

[Waddizzle]

“ These shots are the old 30D before it died. The AF setting on the 30D are much more simpler than the 80D so I am looking at settings on the 80D more so than my positioning and understanding of the game. hopefully would liek to get back the colour depth with the 80D that I once acheived with the 30D “

What AF settings did you use on your 30D?  I believe your choices were all, one, or none.  

[Soccer_shoot]

On the 30D I would use all but if there was too much signage distraction I would switch it off. But 80D has 4 different sets of modes for AF so dozens of options...

[wq9nsc]

Nice captures and I would definitely restrict the focus points to a small array because that is what gives you necessary control over the camera to capture what you want.  With your field position, this will give you a very good setup for soccer.

Depending upon the sport, I will use either a point in the center of the array or lower center area.  I can't remember the full capabilities of the AF array in the 80D so look at your manual for specifics.  Canon has different levels of AF points within the array with the most capable functioning as dual cross point sensors which provide the highest level of performance.  The performance of the points is also controlled by the maximum capable aperture of the lens (not what is selected in your exposure setup) so if only the very center points function at maximum level with the aperture of the lens you have then use the center of the array instead of the bottom center.

Attacking mid is a GREAT position in soccer and a strategy that too few coaches use well!  Your son is clearly a skilled and athletic player to be assigned to that role so my congratulations to him.

Some officials are very restrictive of allowing people in the area behind the goal because it is one of the true danger areas off the pitch with the ball often deflecting off the goal frame into that area with high velocity.  I know most of the officiating crews in the area and they are fine with me wherever but that is because I have known them for many years and I used to coach soccer so they feel like I can take care of myself.  I know of two incidents in the area where photographers were hit in this area of the pitch because they weren't paying sufficient attention.  I have deflected several balls with a fist, good experience from when I spent a lot of time in goal while coaching my daughter who was a forward 🙂

The 80D is a very capable body but the camera and the photographer work together as a system so set it up so that you and the camera complement each other.  My first serious sports camera was a 1D Mark II and it was good to learn with because it forced me to work at my best.  The capabilities of the 1DX III AF system are excellent and have allowed me to recover from mistakes, especially in HS football, because of its ability to instantly grab focus under horrible conditions but in general you don't want to depend too much on the camera to overcome mistakes in strategy and technique.

Make the transition to shooting in RAW instead of JPG, the free software that Canon provides does an excellent job and with RAW you have much more latitude in correcting for exposure issues.  Afternoon soccer matches are particularly difficult at times with the low sun angle creating incredible contrast differences from one side of the player's face to the other with the shadows down in the noise and the highlights clipping the sensor.  RAW can't cure everything but you have a lot more versatility since it retains all of the original data for later post-event editing.

Because of your son's position, in addition to the goal attack he will be playing some serious defense so you will want to get a variety of photos both from the side and in the area behind the goal to capture the full "story" of his match.

Rodger

[ebiggs1]

"It’s obviously not working out.  The AF point seems to be sliding off players to the background. What’s your solution for that issue."

Exactly, that is why One Shot and single focus point is better. If the OP focus locks using One Shot it will never "slide" off the intended target. I'm not opposed to using servo modes but not as a beginner or even a person more advanced that doesn't shoot a lot. A weekender for instance.