Best setting for multiple moving objects (dancers) REBEL XS?

[bbml4]

My camera seems to only catching one or two moving objects clearly and my camera is set on action multi shot.  HELP because I've got a dance recital coming up and need some really clear photos!

[Jason]

Hi bbml4!

Welcome to the Canon Forums and thanks for your inquiry! Since you mentioned this is a time-sensitive issue, we wanted to mention the forums aren't meant for immediate assistance, but are designed to allow the community to help each other with issues encountered or tips they'd like to share along the way. We do hope someone is able to help, but if you do not have an answer soon and time is running out, our US-based technical support team is a much more efficient way to get help! They're ready to help 24/7 via Email at http://bit.ly/EmailCanon or by phone at 1-800-OK-CANON (1-800-652-2666) weekdays between 10 AM and 10 PM ET (7 AM to 7 PM PT).

We hope this helps!

[jrhoffman75]

Are they blurry from movement or out of focus?

Typically the camera will lock on to one object. Depth of field and/or objects in the same plane will be in focus as well.

What are your shooting condituions? More info will asssit us in assisting you.

[bbml4]

Thanks for inquiring fuether. Shooting conditions: On stage and not always the optimum lighting. (Even does it outside with moving objects). Shutter speed didn't seem to help and I'm using a monopod. Seems like everyone's cell phones take better action shots than my camera! Very frustrating. It will focus on one subject when I want clear shots on everyone. Thank you in advance for your help!

[jrhoffman75]

Because of their small sensor size phone cameras have great depth of field, so they will seem to take more in-focus photos; especially when looking at the on the phone.

All you can do is select a high ISO and try to balance shutter speed and aperture. Smaller aperture (higher number) will give more depth of field (getting more subjects at varying distance from camera in focus) but shutter speed goes down (resulting in possible motion blur).

If you have access to the area before hand maybe you can place someone at the distance you want, stand where you will be taking photos from and focus on the person. Then, switch lens to manual. That will keep the camera from jumping from subject to subject. But, if you move from your spot, or decide to focus on a different spot, you won't be in focus unless you engage lens AF again.

I used to take dance photos of my grandchildren, so I know how difficult it is. Some situations are just beyond the capabilities of the Rebel series cameras. Maybe some other members will have additional suggestions.

[TTMartin]

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@bbml4 wrote:
Thanks for inquiringfuether. Shooting conditions: On stage and not always the optimum lighting. (Even does it outside with moving objects). Shutter speed didn't seem to help and I'm using amonopod. Seems like everyone's cell phones take better action shots than my camera! Very frustrating. It will focus on one subject when I want clear shots on everyone. Thank you in advance for your help!

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Be sure you are using AIServo.

Also understand that when using AIServo with 9 point auto AF point selection. The camera will start tracking using the center AF point, then had off to other AF points as your subject moves as long as you keep the shutter half pressed.

dSLRs have a much shallower depth of fileld than a cell phone. You can stop the aperture down to increase the depth of field, but, then either you have to decrease your shutter speed, or increase your ISO.

Try to take photos at moments of natural pauses in the motion. This will help when your shutter speed is marginal. For example when someone jumps, at the top of the jump, they pause momentarily before they start back down.

[bbml4]

Thank you and I'll try your suggestions.

[ebiggs1]

You do NOT want AI-Servo.

You do want a large DOF (depth-of-field).  Your lighting may make it impossibile.  Even the best DSLRs have a limit.

Try the highest ISO setting you can accept.  1600 possibly.  Set the Rebel to Av and select f8 or so.  The best bet is to bracket and/or try different settings.  But this is the basic concept you need to use.

Re-read jrhoffman's post.    It is spot on.

[TCampbell]

AI Servo assumes the subject is moving and the focus distance will constantly be changing.  

One Shot assumes a stationary subject (and stationary camera -- that's usually a given but I thought I should mention it).  The camera will focus only until it gets a lock and then it will stop focusing.  If focus distance changes after the focus lock was achieved then the camera will not re-adjust focus (the subject will be out of focus.)

As a side-effect of each mode... in "One Shot" focus mode the camera will not take a photo until it can achieve a focus lock (and if it's not possible to get a foccus lock -- such as inadequate lighting) then the camera will refuse to shoot at all.  This assumes AF is enabled on the lens switch.  If the lens is in the MF position then the camera wont try to focus... and will be happy to shoot anytime you press the shutter button.  This behavior (refusing to shoot until I can lock focus) is called "Focus Priority".

In "AI Servo" mode the camera will begn focusing when you half-press the shutter and will continously update focus.  When you fully press the shutter button the camera WILL take the photo immediately.  It will shoot -- even if the camera was not able to focus.  This behavior is called "Release Priority".  This means you need to watch your subject to make sure the camera is tracking focus on your intended subject before you shoot.

There is another mode called "AI Focus" -- it's not a true mode itself... it really just means the computer will auto-decide if it should use "One Shot" focus vs. "AI Servo" focus behavior.  The camera takes a moment to evaluate if the subject seems to be moving.  If not... it uses "One Shot" behavior.  If they are moving it uses "AI Servo" behavior.  You might think this is perfect and you should just leave the camera in "AI Focus" all the time... but there is a downside.   The camera needs a moment to determine if the subject is moving and that introduces a delay.  You may not be happy with that delay.  Hence if you know up front whether your subject is stationary vs. moving, it's best to select the mode designed for that situation.

Getting adequate light to photograph moving subjects without getting blur caused by the motion and without having to crank up the ISO so high that you get "noise" in your images is tricky.  It really helps to have very low focal ratio lenses (e.g. the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II for example) but those lenses are not cheap (but a number of companies will "rent" lenses if you just need it for a one-time occasion.)  A consumer grade zoom such as the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 or 55-250mm f/4-5.6 are "variable" focal ratio lenses.  You would mostly be limited to f/5.6 as the lowest f-stop available.  An f/2.8 zoom literally collects FOUR times more light which translates to using faster shutter speeds and lower ISO settings.)  It also helps to have a newer body that can shoot at significantly higher ISO settings while still keeping the nosie levels very low.

[TTMartin]

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@ebiggs1 wrote:

You do NOT want AI-Servo.

You do want a large DOF (depth-of-field).  Your lighting may make it impossibile.  Even the best DSLRs have a limit.

Try the highest ISO setting you can accept.  1600 possibly.  Set the Rebel to Av and select f8 or so.  The best bet is to bracket and/or try different settings.  But this is the basic concept you need to use.

Re-read jrhoffman's post.    It is spot on.

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You want both AIServo to continuously track your moving subjects and a larger depth of field to get more dancers in focus.

If you were to just rely on depth of field why use auto focus at all? Why not just manually focus near the center of the stage? I'm being factitious, of course. But, unless you use AIServo for your moving dancers you might as well.