100mm 2.8L macro with 6D, shutter too slow in bright sunlight

[Cindy-Clicks]

When shooting with my 100mm macro in Av,  I cannot get a decent shutter speed even in bright sunlight with ISO at 1000.  I don't seem to have this problem with my 70D even though I am shooting at 200mm+.  The 6D is full-frame so it should actually be shooting faster. What is the problem?

[ebiggs1]

"So how do I post it with the EXIF data then?"

What program are you using?

BTW, the fastest lens, that is actually made, and, that I know of, is the Leica Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH Lens,  It is around 10 grand.  There have been faster lenses but were either specialized for certain aps or a joke.  Sometimes you can find one of these in a flea market or lens junk yard.

[Cindy-Clicks]

I use photoshop CC, I usually only use Lightroom to upload photos in a gallery for my website, or to print from.  

[ebiggs1]

OK, great.  In LR simply Export.  Change the size to something reasonable like 12".  Set it to 72 dpi.

But make sure you don't check to remove all meta data.  Leave all meta data intact.

U/L here using the little picture icon right by the link icon.

[amfoto1]

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@ebiggs1 wrote:

BTW, the fastest lens, that is actually made, and, that I know of, is the Leica Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH Lens,  It is around 10 grand.  There have been faster lenses but were either specialized for certain aps or a joke.  Sometimes you can find one of these in a flea market or lens junk yard.

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Actually, an f1.0 or faster lens isn't going to solve your "problems" at all. More likely would just present a new set of problems! In fact... you'd end up stopping it way down anyway, looking for enough depth of field to take shots like your rose examples.

I don't know you and your level of experience, so forgive me but it sounds as if you have some misunderstandings of the basics of exposure. You might benefit most from spending $18 or so on a copy of Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". That's an excellent book that can even be helpful to folks who.ve been shooting for years and think they already know it all.

Of course, a book doesn't directly address your problem... But it would make it more obvious why we're asking for more info (the EXIF) and being a bit doubtful about what you think is occurring.

***********

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER 

[ebiggs1]

"BTW, the fastest lens, that is actually made, and, that I know of, is the Leica Noctilux-M 50mm f/0.95 ASPH Lens,  It is around 10 grand."

Alan this was just a unrelated comment by the OP.   Not meant for purchase or use.

[TCampbell]

I didn't mean to suggest that anyone should own an f/1.0 lens (I wouldn't shoot at f/1.0).  I only mentioned the order of f-stops in the context of using an aperture other than f/16.  

E.g. while outside during mid-day sun (assuming it isn't cloudy) you can safely assuming that at f/16 that you can set the shutter speed to the inverse of the ISO.  This will always work (no need to check the meter and if the meter disagrees then the meter is giving an incorrect reading -- which can happen on mostly white or mostly black images.)

But suppose you don't want to shoot at f/16... suppose you'd rather use f/8.   f/8 is two "full" stops down from f/16 (each "full" f-stop is a "power" (exponentiation in math) of the square root of 2.  (√2 = 1.414213562373095... but you can safely round this to simply 1.4 for simplicity for photography purposes.)  f/1 is √2^0.  f/1.4 is √2^1.  f/2 is √2^2.  f/2.8 is √2^3.  f/4 is √2^4.  etc.  It's always the square root of 2 raised to "something" and that something (the exponent) goes up by whole integer values for each "full" f-stop.

The reason this is important is because if you change the radius of a circle by a factor of the square root of 2 (up or down) then the AREA of that circle will EXACTLY double (or halve depending on if you were making the circle larger or smaller based on that factor.)  When your circle (in our case its the aperture opening inside the lens) is EXACTLY double the area, then exactly twice as many photons of light will pass through the opening.

f/8 is two full stops down from f/16.  That means we'll be getting four times more light through our lens at f/8 than whatever we were getting at f/16 and, consequently, we can adjust our shutter speed so that the shutter is only open 1/4th as long.  If we use ISO 100, then we could use ISO 100, f/16, and 1/100th sec.  OR we can use ISO 100, f/8, and 1/400th sec and get the same amount of light to the sensor.

At f/1 it gets a bit crazy... that's 8 stops down from f/16.  1/100th sec (at ISO 100) becomes 1/25600th sec exposure (even at ISO 100).

1/100 0 stops (f/16)

1/200 1 stop (f/11)

1/400 2 stops (f/8)

1/800 3 stops (f/5.6)

1/1600 4 stops (f/4)

1/3200 5 stops (f/2.8)

1/6400 6 stops (f/2)

1/12,800 7 stops (f/1.4)

1/25,600 8 stops (f/1.0)

Your camera probably can't shoot faster than 1/4000 sec (a few cameras can shoot at 1/8000th).  So f/1.0 is not going to be useful (you'd minimally need a 3 stop ND filter to shoot at f/1.0 outside in full sunlight.)   And of course you'd have a ludicrously narrow depth of field and would need to do a lot of focus stacking.  

[ebiggs1]

Guys the f1 and faster lens was just a comment.  It was not a solution or even a try to use lens.  Simply a comment.  No relation to the issue at hand.

[Cindy-Clicks]

Is the metadata showing up now?

[ebiggs1]

No.  It is still blank.  But at any rate you need to u/l them as seperate files.  It will be useless to do it with them combined.

That is probably why the data is stripped.  Just resize the original(s) and u/l them from LR.  All meta data intact.