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sigma 35mm 1.4 IS vs non IS?

iphonemaster93
Rising Star

So I took this shot, shown below, with my 17-55 2.8 and later on, I tried doing it with the Sigma 35mm 1.4 and none of the shots came out to be this focused. Does anyone know if it's because there's no IS on the 35mm or is it because I just got unlucky with all of my photos? Is it possible to get this clean shot with the 35mm 1.4 or do I have to be on a smooth road to do this? I was trying it on 280N from Pacifica up to South SF trying to shoot a random drift car and all of them were too shaky. Thanks!Subaru STi Rolling Shot

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

OK lets try to clear a few things up. The desired motion blur comes from the low shutter speed & a perfect pan. With both vehicles in motion the pan becomes more or less like shooting a still BUT as such the camera & photographer can't be in motion as in having road vibrations transfer to the photographer because he / she is leaning onto the side door or window.. Also lets be clear in that the Canon lenses with IS that go really wide DO NOT have a panning mode & for this kind of use IS may CREATE fuzzyness, but that's just a guess based on my own experiences with my 24-105 when shooting race cars with the IS on. IF you really want to do this kind of photography well you need to spend BIG money on a camera stabilizersuch as sold by Kenyon.

 

http://www.ken-lab.com/

 

These are used by pros to shoot air to air & car to car etc. NOW re the AF idea that multiple points is a better choice that is not correct. The camera can ONLY focus to one distance at the moment the photo is taken, not 2 or 3 different distances which seems to be what you are thinking. DOF gives you that extra area in focus, not multiple focus points. You need to decide on what you need in DOF & use an F stop small enough to get that much DOF from your shooting distance. There are DOF calculators on line or you can get an Ap for it to use when needed.

Correct settings and technique are the difference between getting a photo of a car that looks to be parked or one at speed. Both cars in these photos are going VERY fast but one looks to be stopped because the shutter speed was too high (intentionally).

 

IMG_0872 copy.jpg

 

INGR2831 copy(1).jpg

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

View solution in original post

55 REPLIES 55

Each camera provides a product.  A photo, if you will.  You as the photographer must decide which is the best tool for the results you require.  If it is a cell phone, OK.  If it is a medium format camera or even a 8x10 camera, OK.

Most of us will say the Rebel or xxD series or even FF is best.  And certainly in most cases that is correct.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Haha I kind of want both a full frame and a crop sensor at the same time because when I go to car shows and want to get a photo with my 17-55, people almost always walk in front of me not seeing that I'm trying to take a photo. Though I do have to say, I haven't spent enough time with my 10-22 so I guess I'll have to start using that one a lot more often now.

"...  do you need a prime or a telescopic with a very wide aperture?"

 

DOF is dependant on several factors.  Blurred BGs are also dependant on several factors.  You best answer is to use the web site mentioned above, or any other that offers such calculations.

 

As a rough rule of thumb, the widest aperture will give the least DOF.  No matter whether is is a prime or zoom, wide or tele.

 

Of course a f1.2 50mm is going to have a very shallow DOF at f1.2.  More than the f1.8 version but either stopped down to f4 for example, the DOF will be the same.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

iphonemaster93
Rising Star

so..my 17-55 is now giving me an error 01 shooting anywhere passed 17mm. it's the same on my t3i. shooting at 17mm at any aperture is fine. do I have to get the lens replaced or is the lens done for good? 

No one here can say either way for sure without actually seeing it or knowing how you treated it.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Try cleaning the terminals on both the lens & camera. Coarse material like denim is a good place to start.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

what should I use to clean it with? i tried wiping the gold teeth on the lens with a glasses cloth and blowing air on it with the tool that came with the cleaning kit, as well as blowing air on the gold teeth on the camer body itself and neither fixed the problem.

Very unlikely the contacts are dirty.  The main reason why this is suggested is, it is easy and basically free.  Use denatured alcohol and a q-tip.  The folks that find they do have dirty contacts don't remove the lens very often.  I have been using a DSLR since they became available, how many years is that?  Smiley Indifferent I have never had a dirty lens contact.  I know that doesn't mean or prove anything but there it is.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Oh I change my lenses a lot. I switch between my 17-55 and my 50mm 1.4 very often. I do have some q tips at home but I don't have any rubbing alcohol or any alcohol of that sort (other than wine, etc etc) XD.

I am super close to just selling the lens and getting a 24-105 F4 L from a friend. The two things that are stopping me and attempting to fix it is the F2.8 and the sharpness. Otherwise, I'd like the 105mm range. 

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