cancel
Showing results for 
Show  only  | Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

sigma 35mm 1.4 IS vs non IS?

iphonemaster93
Rising Star

So I took this shot, shown below, with my 17-55 2.8 and later on, I tried doing it with the Sigma 35mm 1.4 and none of the shots came out to be this focused. Does anyone know if it's because there's no IS on the 35mm or is it because I just got unlucky with all of my photos? Is it possible to get this clean shot with the 35mm 1.4 or do I have to be on a smooth road to do this? I was trying it on 280N from Pacifica up to South SF trying to shoot a random drift car and all of them were too shaky. Thanks!Subaru STi Rolling Shot

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

OK lets try to clear a few things up. The desired motion blur comes from the low shutter speed & a perfect pan. With both vehicles in motion the pan becomes more or less like shooting a still BUT as such the camera & photographer can't be in motion as in having road vibrations transfer to the photographer because he / she is leaning onto the side door or window.. Also lets be clear in that the Canon lenses with IS that go really wide DO NOT have a panning mode & for this kind of use IS may CREATE fuzzyness, but that's just a guess based on my own experiences with my 24-105 when shooting race cars with the IS on. IF you really want to do this kind of photography well you need to spend BIG money on a camera stabilizersuch as sold by Kenyon.

 

http://www.ken-lab.com/

 

These are used by pros to shoot air to air & car to car etc. NOW re the AF idea that multiple points is a better choice that is not correct. The camera can ONLY focus to one distance at the moment the photo is taken, not 2 or 3 different distances which seems to be what you are thinking. DOF gives you that extra area in focus, not multiple focus points. You need to decide on what you need in DOF & use an F stop small enough to get that much DOF from your shooting distance. There are DOF calculators on line or you can get an Ap for it to use when needed.

Correct settings and technique are the difference between getting a photo of a car that looks to be parked or one at speed. Both cars in these photos are going VERY fast but one looks to be stopped because the shutter speed was too high (intentionally).

 

IMG_0872 copy.jpg

 

INGR2831 copy(1).jpg

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

View solution in original post

55 REPLIES 55

Is there an app for that? I don't want to constantly be launching safari on my phone just to check the distance to get the best shallow depth of field LOL.

 

Also, What's the ball park equivalent of 1/30-1/40 F10 rolling shot if I were to do it at a shutter speed quicker than 1/100? would I have to widen or make the aperture even smaller? 

Is there a reason you don't use normal f-stops?  But your query is basic photography stuff.  If you reduce one you increase the other by the same amount and vice versa.

 

When you gain more experience with your qear, you shouldn't need any chart or app.  It is just something you know.  I never use those charts anymore unless someone asks what is the exact DOF in inches.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

tbh I'm just still playing around. I never really questioned how well the DOF worked with the 18-135mm, we just happened to get the new Lexus IS line on our lot and I wanted to get a good HD quality photo for myself and to upload onto Instagram. I've always just used the 135mm to shoot photos for our online picture database so I was wondering how far back I'd have to stand from the car to get a shallow depth of field. I ended up having to stand 10-15 feet away at F5.6 shooting at 85mm to get any decent blur in the background with the rear end of the car sharp. So far, I've had the best results with my 17-55, I'm still learning the 35mm.

As an FYI the DOF changes between a full frame & a 1.6 crop body. The DOF is shallower on FF all other things being equal.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

I've only played around with a crop sensor x'( I don't have and don't have the funds for a full frame right now. I would get one but with my current skill level, I don't believe it is time for me to get a full frame at the moment haha. I'm guessing that's why I use my 17-55 for mostly all my shots that have to do with DOF because I can use whichever focal length I want and keep a constant aperture, no matter how far I am from my subject. However, it still bothers me that sometimes, I can't get the DOF I want because I'm not standing at the correct distance to achieve that DOF.

"I would get one but with my current skill level, I don't believe it is time for me to get a full frame at the moment haha."

 

Skill level is not the determining factor for getting or going FF.  The cameras work exactly the same. No matter whose hands they are in.  Lots of folks see the FF as an advancement.  It isn't in the terms of skill.  The product it produces has different properties.  That's all.  Up until the 1Dx, Canon's flagship full on pro camera was a crop sensor body.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

So the full frame is just a huge benefit and an add-on for people who wanted to be able to capture exactly what they were seeing with their eyes?

"So the full frame is just a huge benefit and an add-on for people who wanted to be able to capture exactly what they were seeing with their eyes?"

 

Wow, I don't even know how to respond that, except, NO. Smiley Frustrated  That is not even close in any respect.  First every camera is FF.  I don't care if you have a G15 P&S, like I do.  Or, if you have a 1Ds Mk III, a FF, like I do.  You get what you see in the view finder. Nothing less, nothing more.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.

I don't understand. what's with the crop sensor factor then?

It is a mostly meaningless "term" thrown on certain sized camera sensors.  It is only valid if you want to compare the Rebel, or whatever, sensor to a 35mm film camera.  Otherwise the term is useless.

 

In the case of lenses, if you think in terms of "angle of view" instead of millimeters, you would be far better off and way ahead of most photographers alive today.

EB
EOS 1D, EOS 1D MK IIn, EOS 1D MK III, EOS 1Ds MK III, EOS 1D MK IV and EOS 1DX and many lenses.
Announcements