cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

sigma 35mm 1.4 IS vs non IS?

iphonemaster93
Rising Star

So I took this shot, shown below, with my 17-55 2.8 and later on, I tried doing it with the Sigma 35mm 1.4 and none of the shots came out to be this focused. Does anyone know if it's because there's no IS on the 35mm or is it because I just got unlucky with all of my photos? Is it possible to get this clean shot with the 35mm 1.4 or do I have to be on a smooth road to do this? I was trying it on 280N from Pacifica up to South SF trying to shoot a random drift car and all of them were too shaky. Thanks!Subaru STi Rolling Shot

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

OK lets try to clear a few things up. The desired motion blur comes from the low shutter speed & a perfect pan. With both vehicles in motion the pan becomes more or less like shooting a still BUT as such the camera & photographer can't be in motion as in having road vibrations transfer to the photographer because he / she is leaning onto the side door or window.. Also lets be clear in that the Canon lenses with IS that go really wide DO NOT have a panning mode & for this kind of use IS may CREATE fuzzyness, but that's just a guess based on my own experiences with my 24-105 when shooting race cars with the IS on. IF you really want to do this kind of photography well you need to spend BIG money on a camera stabilizersuch as sold by Kenyon.

 

http://www.ken-lab.com/

 

These are used by pros to shoot air to air & car to car etc. NOW re the AF idea that multiple points is a better choice that is not correct. The camera can ONLY focus to one distance at the moment the photo is taken, not 2 or 3 different distances which seems to be what you are thinking. DOF gives you that extra area in focus, not multiple focus points. You need to decide on what you need in DOF & use an F stop small enough to get that much DOF from your shooting distance. There are DOF calculators on line or you can get an Ap for it to use when needed.

Correct settings and technique are the difference between getting a photo of a car that looks to be parked or one at speed. Both cars in these photos are going VERY fast but one looks to be stopped because the shutter speed was too high (intentionally).

 

IMG_0872 copy.jpg

 

INGR2831 copy(1).jpg

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

View solution in original post

55 REPLIES 55

exactly. that's why when I attempt to shoot at 1/125 or faster, I turn up the ISO and turn down the aperture. Otherwise, if I'm shooting at 1/125 at F9,  I get absolutely no wheel spin and no speed effect in the background. The one thing that's bothering me is not being able to use the 35mm for sharper rolling shots. In the photo above, I bumped up the clarity to make the car look that sharp. I don't know if there's a way to make the car look sharper without having to bump up the clarity in PP. 

In your original post you said, "... none of the shots came out to be this focused."

That is what I assumed you wanted.  You did not mention wheel blur. Did you?

IMHO, it is s mistake to use IS.  It is a mistake to use so many focus points.  Also I would not use AI-Servo.  If you want advice from me that is what I would do.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and several lenses!

Wheel blur and a sharply focused photo may require Photoshop.  A fairly easy task to do.  1/2 of the triangle!

The other issues I mentioned are still valid.  You will have to find a compromise between the two as blur and sharp are opposites.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and several lenses!

Yeah i'm still using LR and PS to do PP for the rolling shots (this one at the beginning of the thread was through both LR and PS).

My bad. Yeah I wanted wheel blur as well as the background to be blurred with the car body in complete focus. I've tried using single point auto focus and when I did that, the portion of the car I was aiming at was perfectly in focus, while the rest of the vehicle was actually starting to be blurred as well. I'll try turning off IS next time but I definitely do need Al servo because 
One Point will make the entire photo blurred and Al Focus will still make the camera use Al Servo. Thanks for the tip though! 🙂 

"I've tried using single point auto focus and when I did that, the portion of the car I was aiming at was perfectly in focus, while the rest of the vehicle was actually starting to be blurred as well."

 

This is not a cause of single point focus.  It is impossible.  When you use multi-point all you are telling the camera is to use the "single point" it can mostly focus on.  This is usually the closest.  Multi-point does not expand what will be in focus.  It simply allows more choices.

 

Show below is now what I beieve you want. Yes, no?

 

6.jpg

 

 

Or maybe the car instead?

 

photoshop-motion-blur-effect.jpg

 

Either way both photos were sharp to begin with.  The rest is all Photoshop!  It is under Motion Blur. Smiley Happy

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and several lenses!

OK lets try to clear a few things up. The desired motion blur comes from the low shutter speed & a perfect pan. With both vehicles in motion the pan becomes more or less like shooting a still BUT as such the camera & photographer can't be in motion as in having road vibrations transfer to the photographer because he / she is leaning onto the side door or window.. Also lets be clear in that the Canon lenses with IS that go really wide DO NOT have a panning mode & for this kind of use IS may CREATE fuzzyness, but that's just a guess based on my own experiences with my 24-105 when shooting race cars with the IS on. IF you really want to do this kind of photography well you need to spend BIG money on a camera stabilizersuch as sold by Kenyon.

 

http://www.ken-lab.com/

 

These are used by pros to shoot air to air & car to car etc. NOW re the AF idea that multiple points is a better choice that is not correct. The camera can ONLY focus to one distance at the moment the photo is taken, not 2 or 3 different distances which seems to be what you are thinking. DOF gives you that extra area in focus, not multiple focus points. You need to decide on what you need in DOF & use an F stop small enough to get that much DOF from your shooting distance. There are DOF calculators on line or you can get an Ap for it to use when needed.

Correct settings and technique are the difference between getting a photo of a car that looks to be parked or one at speed. Both cars in these photos are going VERY fast but one looks to be stopped because the shutter speed was too high (intentionally).

 

IMG_0872 copy.jpg

 

INGR2831 copy(1).jpg

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

The second photo is what I'm looking to do with the 35mm. Btw, I can open the link but nothing shows up. I'm not sure, for whatever reason, zone AF works better for me in comparison to single point AF. I've seen the shot of the blue cobra (?), I know that one was done through editing. 

I know haha, but i'm working on the last 1/2 XD

iphonemaster93
Rising Star

sorry laptop glitch. hasn't been resolved yet. anyways, ebiggs I know your second picture was photoshopped, I'm looking for the result in your first photo.

Announcements

08/09/2022: New firmware version 1.2.0 is available for CR-N 300
08/09/2022: New firmware version 1.2.0 is available for CR-N 500
07/28/2022: New firmware version 1.2.1 is available for EOS-R3
07/21/2022: New firmware version 1.6.0 is available for EOS-R5
07/21/2022: New firmware version 1.6.0 is available for EOS-R6
07/21/2022: New firmware version 1.1.0 is available for EOS-R7
07/21/2022: New firmware version 1.1.0 is available for EOS-R10
07/14/2022: New firmware version 1.0.1 is available for CR-X300
07/01/2022: New firmware version 1.3.0 is available for PowerShot PICK
06/30/2022: Service Notice: EOS 70D: Error 70 or Error 80
06/10/2022: Service Notice:UPDATE: Canon Inkjet Printer continuous reboot loop or powering down
06/07/2022: New firmware version 1.3.2 is available for PowerShot G7 X Mark III
06/07/2022: New firmware version 1.0.3 is available for EOS M50 Mark II
05/31/2022: Did someone SAY Badges?
05/26/2022: New firmware version 1.0.5.1 is available for EOS-C500 Mark II
05/26/2022: New firmware version 1.0.3.1 is available for EOS-C300 Mark III
05/10/2022: Keep your Canon gear in optimal condition with a Canon Maintenance Service
05/05/2022: We are excited to announce that we have refreshed the ranking scale within the community!
04/26/2022: New firmware version 1.0.1.1 is available for EOS R5 C
03/23/2022: New firmware version 1.0.3.1 is available for EOS-C70
02/09/2022: Share Your Photos is back!
02/07/2022: New firmware version 1.6.1 is available for EOS-1DX Mark III
01/19/2022: READY FOR ANYTHING EOS-R5 C
01/13/2022: Community Update. We will be retiring the legacy profile avatars on 01/20/2022. Click this link to read more.
01/05/2022: Welcome to CES 2022!
12/7/2021: New firmware version 1.3.0 is available for Mount Adapter EF-EOS R 0.71x