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Temperature Affecting Exposure Settings

charweb722
Apprentice

I am not sure how to post a message on here, but I have a canon eos rebel xs; I always use the long lens 75-300mm for sports photos for my grandkids.  They were great until it got colder and a little foggy here.  I use the auto sports setting.  I have recently looked at many u tube videos on how to access all the features.  Last night I did the tv setting; set at 1/4000 and the photos were great.  Then, the lights came on and the boys team started.  I tried the same thing; all the photos are either all black or mostly so dark you can't see.  The videos said it would addapt to the lighting, but obviously not.  I also go a message clean sensor.  I did the auto clean sensor; which I just did the other day for the first time.  We have had this camera for several years, its awesome.  Do I need to keep the camera warm?

10 REPLIES 10

kvbarkley
VIP
VIP

No, temperature should not affect the settings.

 

Was the time blinking when you took the underexposed shots?

 

Can you share the Aperture and ISO for a good shot and a bad shot?

I was looking through the viewer when shooting, so not sure what the aperture was or anything.  When I set the tv, do I need to see what other settings are in that main window?  I thought it was all auto.  If I put the camera on auto when doing the sports in the evening, it has a little red dot flashing and will not take a photo.  Sorry, I am new to all this setting stuff; always used the auto.

If the photos are still on the camera, hit the info button and it will show you all the settings.

 

If they are on the computer, there will be some way to view the exif data which also shows the setting. The blinking red light in the viewfinder usually means that it was too dark to focus.

I/4000 requires a lot of light which may work in daylight at the right ISO setting but not at night unless the area has amazing lighting. A photo needs light & as the shutter speed goes up the lens must open wider (aperture) but it can only open so wide & once it hits wide open too high a shutter speed = a dark (underexposed) photo.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Thank you for your help.  It is my husband's camera which he never uses and never knew or learned how to operate it in the settings menus.  I am wanting ot learn all I can about taking good photos, settings, etc.  I am thinking about taking a photography class, but am trying to learn more about these settings.  God Bless!

Check this out. It's by Canon but the rules apply to photography & and are not brand specific.

 

http://www.canonoutsideofauto.ca/

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

wq9nsc
Authority
Authority

It isn't common but the sensor can briefly fog in an extreme temperature change; if you get condensing moisture on other items it can happen but it is usually brief.  That could have triggered the clean sensor warning.

 

1/4000 is far too fast of a shutter speed for normal sports usage and is probably the fastest speed for that body.  In the daytime I typically shoot soccer and football (high school level) at 1/1250 or 1/1600 depending upon the light level while at night I drop down to 1/1000 and that is using a F2.8 lens wide open and it still pushes the proper ISO well beyond the range of your Rebel XS.  For younger age levels of soccer 1/500 is very usable but faster is desirable when lighting conditions support it.

 

Getting good night photos is going to require you to use the minimum shutter speed possible (you should be able to get some images at 1/500 and maybe 1/250 at the wider end of your lens) that will provide reasonable sharpness. You need to get as close to the action as possible to maximize the level of light reflected from the players to your sensor.  Illumination level follows the inverse square law so every time you double the distance from your subject the light level is divided by four.  Of course the same applies to the distance of your subject from the light source so optimal for nighttime sports is to find a location where the subject is close to a light source and you are close to the subject.  You also want to fill as much of the sensor as possible with the desired image to avoid cropping an image that is already noisy and lacking in detail.  I believe the maximum aperture (F stop) of your lens decreases as you increase the magnification so if you can keep it at the F4 end of the range (wide rather than telephoto) that will be of major benefit.

 

It is very difficult to get action shots in dark light.  Your focus system will struggle and the images will have increased noise and decreased color.  Today I am shooting a high school soccer game which starts at 5:00 and for most of that there will be decent light and it will be a fairly relaxing event.  Then I am going with the football team to shoot a game on a field that is new to me and I will have the camera set up with Av fixed at 2.8, shutter at 1/1000, and the ISO will adjust as needed and if I am lucky most of the shots will be at ISO 12,800 or below but I am not counting on it.

 

One trick you can use for night events is to figure out which part of the field has the best lighting and stake out a position near it and wait for the action to come into the lights.  My daughter was in her last year of middle school last year and was invited to join the high school varsity soccer team for their indoor club season and I tried to shoot it with my Canon 1D Mark II that had served me well for years but with a maximum usable ISO of 1,600 (3,200 looks terrible with that body) the results were basically worthless and I moved up to a new 1DX Mark II.  The only good shots I got from the indoor games I shot with the older body were in one well lit portion of the playing field.

 

Good luck in getting some great shots of your grandkids!

 

Rodger

EOS 1DX M3, 1DX M2, 1DX, 5DS R, M6 Mark II, 1D M2, EOS 650 (film), many lenses, XF400 video

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

"... the photos are either all black or mostly so dark you can't see."

 

They are underexposed. Plain and simple answer.  You need more light.  1/4000 is way, way too fast SS. When you select Tv or Av you are fixing that value. Essentially taking the Rebel out of full auto.  It thinks you know what setting will produce a properly exposed picture. However, there will be a warning in the viewfinder that tells you exposure. The Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Lens is a slow lens. It isn't the best choice for nighttime sports.  But it can be done with the proper settings and adequate light.

Try these next time, Tv set to 1/500, let the camera do Av. ISO to 1600. However these are only general and should be modified as need changes.  I can't see where you are shooting so it is just a starting point guess. 1/4000 is way wrong, though.

 

My personal preferred setting selects Av as the priority in favor of Tv which I rarely use.  We already know this kind of photography requires the largest aperture.  Let the camera select the fastest SS it can to achieve the correct exposure. Some shots may come out blurry but that is only because there was not enough light. But you will still get a shot off.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

@charweb722 wrote:

I am not sure how to post a message on here, but I have a canon eos rebel xs; I always use the long lens 75-300mm for sports photos for my grandkids.  They were great until it got colder and a little foggy here.  I use the auto sports setting.  I have recently looked at many u tube videos on how to access all the features.  Last night I did the tv setting; set at 1/4000 and the photos were great.  Then, the lights came on and the boys team started.  I tried the same thing; all the photos are either all black or mostly so dark you can't see.  The videos said it would addapt to the lighting, but obviously not.  I also go a message clean sensor.  I did the auto clean sensor; which I just did the other day for the first time.  We have had this camera for several years, its awesome.  Do I need to keep the camera warm?


As others have pointed out, Your shutter speed seems to have been way too fast.  I would use a minimum shutter speed that is equal to 1/FL*2, or one over twice the maximum focal length of the zoom lens.  This will work out to be about 1/640.

In the creative modes, you also need to set the ISO.  I suggest that you keep it set for AUTO until you become more familiar with Creative Zone shooting modes.  This setting will give you extra help in adjusting for a correct exposure.

When you are shooting in any mode, pay attention to the. Icons in the viewfinder.  If you see anything blinking or flashing, then the exposure is off by a wide margin.  The camera will flash the exposure setting it thinks you should adjust.

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